I was wondering besides the 5000 PRR X28, the 2000 B&O M-27 and M-27A, and the 25 High Point, Thomasville & Denton cars, were there any other 1923 ARA Steel boxcars with heights different from 8'

 Hi Bob and List Members, The PRR gon that is the topic of the second paragraph is the lone PRR class G23 car - see link below:

We used to have a lot of surplus places here in Michigan. They mostly started as military surplus dealers after WWII, then switched to industrial surplus. They had lots of hardware, electronics,

If one wants blackened, non-magnetic button head screws, McMaster Carr has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/97763a314 The link should get you on the right page and then search for the desired length

Nice shot of the sawdust burner as well as the loco. A lot of good details seen on the sawdust burner that will help me model one. Thanks for the unexpected detail! Doug Paasch

Bob, In the book Western Maryland Railway Revenue Equipment Boxcars and Refrigerator Cars (published by the WMRY Historical Society) the black and white builders photo of the first car in the

Maximum Capacity Gondolas The text below is from the book, Car Shop Practice: A Practical Textbook For The Instruction Of Mechanics, Helpers, And Apprentices In Railway Car Departments, Including

Currently working on a boxcar project involving Western Maryland #4001-4050 series boxcar (postwar AAR, R-3-4 end, blt 7/51). My question -- when built, were the ends and/or roof of

Gary, Diamond Match also had a major plant at Red Bluff. Both plants were switched by 4-wheel GE diesels. I don't know about matches, but I think both plants were involved in dimensional lumber. When

Forgot the photo Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "BRIAN PAUL EHNI via groups.io" <bpehni@...> Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> Date: Saturday, July

Diagrams yes. Engineering drawings no. For those you need to contact the NKPHTS. Ray Breyer Elgin, IL On

Back in the early 90’s, I went looking at an electronics parts house in Nashville for usable stuff. One bin was 2-56 x ¼” binder head screws. $1.00/pound. I still have a couple of pounds

Dan, Yes, these are blackened steel but in S scale they're just that much higher from the uncoupling magnets than in HO so I haven't seen any issues with that. I'm using the small 1/8" diameter

Great place to spend hours noodling around for surplus aircraft grade you name it. Lived just around the corner. Haven't been in that store for years. Was Joe Factors then. Left over store from

my recollection is that NKP freight car diagrams used to be available on the internet under the umbrella "alphabet route"

I've changed the subject line since I'm changing the subject. Recently I have used rattle-can Scalecoat II on several resin freight car models, without a primer. Adhesion isn't wonderful, but it

Scott, I use their surfacer but often just grab a can of One of their light grays. Seems to work fine, Tony Thompson

Hi; already we have had the the universal opinion of yes for the use of primer on resin before a Tru-Color coat. Decades ago, I tried my 1st (and last) attempt to paint AccuPaint on an un-primered

I keep both the Tamiya red oxide and light grey primer handy and use before any rolling stock painting. I have a bin of Tr-Color on hand but these days use it and PBL Star Brand for matching to

Tony Thompson wrote: Tony, Which Tamiya primer do you prefer to use? Scott Seders