I think Ray's comments, and I know mine, were aimed at people who don't own a functional ALPS printer and/or don't want to go down that rather uncertain road. If you've got one, and you think the

So a color laser is required? Count me out. I’ll stick to my ALPS. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: STMFC List <STMFC@...> on behalf of STMFC List <STMFC@...> Reply-To:

Richard wrote: “What are or were L&D rules?” Loss and Damage Guy Wilber Reno, Nevada

I see a 1958 check for sale on eBay from the Colorado & Southern to the Lehigh Valley that says it is for "A.A.R.-L & D Rules 150 and 152." What are or were L&D rules? Since there's another, unchecked

Dave North, You need to apply a layer of V Photo Primer between the white layers if you’re using a MD-5000 or MD-5500. If you have a MD-1000 or 1300 you should use a pass of finish between

I picked up a copy of Tony's book on Transitional Railroading at Naperville. A pleasant surprise in the book was a shot of our moderator's (Mike Brock) excellent Union Pacific railroad. We tend to

STMFC Members, The RP CYC Publishing Co. announces that Volume 34 published in the spring of 2017 was the final volume of Railway Prototype Cyclopedia. We thank the many members of the STMFC for your

David mentioned that the white cart for his laser printer does not produce a very opaque white. To be fair, my ALPS has the same problem (I haven’t seen David’s decals so I can’t compare actual

Tony, I'm a C&NW modeler, or perhaps I should say CNW modeler, and my first answer is "I wish I knew for sure" IAs Tim says, it's reasonably clear from photo evidence, although I'd argue for a

Tony The ampersand was dropped on newly painted box cars in the 1940's.Freshly painted cars without ampersands can be seen in some of the Jack Delanophotos from 1942-1943. Tim O'

We can print most of the work from your art work. At least we can look at it and make a determination. Hubert Mask Mask Island Decals Inc Maskisland@... On Nov 2, 2017, at 7:56 PM, 'John Hagen'

Dennis, Ray Breyer and group. The problem is not being able to print white. There are several ways to do that nowadays. No, not with your off-the-shelf $100.00 - $250.00 Inkjet or laser printers but

I have recently dug through my prototype information and find conflicting data on WHEN the Chicago and North Western changed its reporting mark to omit the ampersand, that is, to change C&NW into CNW.

I bought two Westerfield Bx-3 that were underweight by quite a bit. I carefully soaked the side and underframe joint with acetone. Q tip worked very good. As it softened the glue I pried open the

All: Speaking as the guy who printed the MDT decals that Ray Breyer mentioned in his recent post, I thought I would offer a few follow-up observations. Like many, I used to lament the lack of

Also Southern with drop doors. They were painted black w/white stenciling. Bill Welch

Tim’s right check for leaks first. I’ve been driving all day. Sorry and good catch Tim

Drill a hole in the bottom pour in B.B. ‘a and white glue plug hole and shake to level load the car. Sit and let dry

First inject water to find any leaks and plug them with ACC. Repeat untilno more leaks. Shake out the water and allow to dry (evaporate) for a few days. Mix lead shot with white glue. Inject into the

I acquired a quantity of 1/16” thick lead sheet from the medical center where I work. You can get it from https://www.mcmaster.com/#lead-sheets/=1a3179s Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: STMFC