I have completed my Bobber Caboose and submitted it for NMRA judging. My current project is a Single Sheathed Boxcar. Many of you provided me with some explanation of Sheathing a few months ago

Nice car. Those doorway sill steps remind me I have a PFE reefer on the workbench with broken (plastic) steps... On 9/2/2022 2:05 PM, Tony Thompson wrote: --

Here's one in 1946 On 9/3/2022 8:41 PM, John Barry wrote: -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

Charlie, I think your observations about galvanized roofing being a consistent color on a particular car. That's what I have observed when researching weathering for some of my models. I have used

The doors on Bob’s model do not appear to be of the same width. They should both be 8’ wide. Bob’s model has rectangular opening metal running board which is correct for the FE-27. The FE-28

The BL kit is featured on the SFRHMS site https://sfrhms.org/rebuilding-santa-fe/gallery/atsf-boxcars/ So I assume it’s close if not correct. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From:

Charley. I don’t have a BL car to compare to, but I can tell you the Fe-28 class had 5 panels to the left of the double doors and 8 panels to the right of the doors. If it would help I can scan

Thanks, Jerry. The MILW car is also an excellent example to use for board weathering of single sheathed boxcars. Nelson Moyer

This shows a couple boxcars with galvanized roofs. I cropped this from a Jack Delano photo taken at the CMStP&P yard in Bensenville, IL ca 1943. I hope this helps.

Decided to build an ATSF Branchline 50’ Fe-28 that’s in yhe ‘to do’ shelf. The lightweight is shown an ‘new 1951’. While the lettering is nice it’s not very opaque and if there’s a

!!! :-D On 9/11/2022 7:54 AM, Charlie Duckworth via groups.io wrote: -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

When I was painting one of my Eagle Merchandise boxcars I was referencing the MP’s painting diagram. The 1951 notes indicated that the roof was to be unpainted and the seam caps were to be painted

On Sat, Sep 10, 2022 at 05:25 PM, Philip Dove wrote: Why did the Railroads bother trying to paint roofs that wouldn't take paint? If l had worked for Hutchins l would have made the saving on paint and

Galvanizers Don, t expect you to paint their coating. The galvanising is sufficient. When l sold paints in the UK in the late70s and early 80s. Getting paint to stick on new galvanising was.

Nelson Moyer wrote: Nelson, you are of course right that metallurgy has progressed over the decades, but galvanized still means zinc coated. What’s improved is paint formulations to “stick” to

I see your point, but these are much newer cars, and are those roofs really galvanized? I would think metallography would improve from early galvanized roofs to a more recent time. I’m thinking of

Nelson Here’s the two photo I used as reference so I didn’t over do the flaking. The lighter, galvanized areas seem the have the same color but I agree it would seem some areas would age but I

I think both cases converge on a middle color, i.e weathered rust. There may also be some variations depending on the base colors, and the number and type of paint layers. David Thompson

Charlie, as I’ve said, I really like your approach to weathering. I’m trying to work up the nerve to start weathering my fleet, but starting on some plastic cars to work out techniques. Roof paint

Thanks Charlie, Water based oils, I'll take a look. Haven't tried them. I have regular artist oils and wanted to buy some non-smelling turpentine. I'll look for waterbased oils Thanks Fenton --