Hi List members, Some might enjoy this image of an early model tractor load on a NP trussrod flat (1910-1919) http://digitalhorizonsonline.org/digital/collection/uw-ndshs/id/8597 Enjoy! Claus

The same height as you have your computer screen for the same reason; you want the work in the center of your field of view. It also helps to have knee space under the bench so you can get in close. A

It impossible to tell how large the booth is, but anything smaller than 22 in. wide and 16 in. high at the face will disappoint you. Another consideration is lighting. You have to see what you’re

Glen... Are you going to sit or stand while air brushing? My first booth was used with me standing up and my current one requires that I set down. If you had my druthers, I would have my current

Glen, I sit when painting. Mine is on a table 30-32” off the floor. Brian J. Carlson -- Brian J. Carlson, P.E. Cheektowaga NY

Sorry, don’t have access to all my photos while here at Cocoa Beach. Here’s the back side of my paint booth, sitting on top of a rollaway toolbox, which gives me drawers for paint, air brush

Hello, My priority list has now reached the situation where this modeller needs to start setting up his spray booth and the main concern is what height should the bench be? The spray boothis a Fengda

I've had good luck getting grabs to line up vertically by drawing horizontal lines with a triangle on either a piece of masking tape or white dykem layout fluid which dissolves in methyl alcohol. I

Nothing close at hand that I can get a pic of... But let's use the Yarmouth etched jig as an example for sake of discussion. Note the rectangles at each end. These are meant to be bent 90* to the

Chuck Cover wrote: "The early Walthers flat resin kits are still around at swap meets and can usually be purchased for a few dollars. As Lester has shown, they build into nice models and can be used

Also Gelly Roll - medium and fine point - great for steel mill marks or bright graffiti -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

There's a number of good techniques listed here, giving me some ideas. (I may need to break out the mill, Dennis.) I'd add that where possible, I drill right through the body, leave the grab long, and

Years back Ben Hom and I discussed doing a model version of "Iron Chef" (the entertaining Japanese version, no Iron Chef America yet) competition. The plan was to give modelers a pile of parts and a

As to chalk markings... Top To Bottom: Sharpie paint marker, Pen-touch paint marker, General charcoal white pencil, Prismacolor Verithin pencil, Supracolor II Soft pencil. I found the Prismacolor

Dave... I can only answer the last question. The retainer valve was located next to the brake wheel. Attached is a photo of a YVRR box car showing the retainer to the left of the brake wheel

I question the 1938 photo date on the site hosting it. The car looks more weathered than one might expect since it is stenciled "NEW 8-37" and the graffiti reference to Hitler would suggest a later

-- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

In addition to Tim’s suggestions, I use a long nose pliers to straighten slight misalignments by holding the pliers flat along the length and twisting one end of the grab iron up or down as needed.

Pierre, Does this mean the 4/5 square corner post end will eventually be added to the Yarmouth product line? No longer needing to scour the ends of the earth when it’s that time for an early

The most obvious defects are when the hand grabs are not parallel to the side, or are tilted to the left or right. I use a template for the latter problem, and I slide a