Bill, I downloaded the Speedwitch data pack last night - you're right it is full of great photos and modeling tips. Shows the cars strictly in their as-built single sheathed configuration - the

A few more published photos of the rebuilds: L&N 94046: Johnson, "L&N Color Guide, vol 1", p 14 L&N 94242: Shaughnessy and Brouws, "The Call of Trains", p 136 L&N 95800: Johnson, p 6 L&N 96294: MRG

Marty, Speedwitch offers a sweet "Profile" of these cars w/photos from my collection. Think about modeling the L&N Shop's very interesting and probably economical for the thrifty RR conversion from KC

Seeking prototype photos of subject cars (L&N 93000-97099, Murphy ends, depicted by Sunshine kit 64.11. If anyone has encountered a photo of one of these cars in a published work please provide a

This seems to be my week for underframe confusion. This morning I was starting to add the brake components to a Sunshine Models Southern Pacific A-50-16 40" automobile car. I did not get very far

---In STMFC@..., <PARDIEW001@...> wrote : The cross members on the existing underframe do not line up with theside bracing on the car.te to date. I hope that someone might have tis information. Thanks

Suggest you contact Jeff at Central Valley Model Works: jeff@... [jeff ATcvmw DOT com] Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA

Does anyone have a diagam of the underframe of the NP 82750-82749 stock cars as in the Centeal valley kit? This is one of my long term projects and this area is posing a delimma. I have narrowed the

I am going to have another operating session in August. If you are interested in crewing on Alma branch trains 95/96 in May 1943 let me know if you are available any Saturdays or Sundays in August.

---In STMFC@..., <prrk41361@...> wrote : Pilobond is recommended by the fast tracks guys. I've used it for 5 years with no issues so par. I hope what Andy describes didn't happen to me. I also spike

This implies that I can screw a 2 liter soda bottle (full of paint) to my airbrush and airbrush for a LONG time! -Jeff

Pilobond is recommended by the fast tracks guys. I've used it for 5 years with no issues so par. I hope what Andy describes didn't happen to me. I also spike the track. Brian J. Carlson



For those to whom this applies, I have used a different source for reference and have made adjustments to fit my new source for decal sets 87-257 and 87-258 , Rock Island route of the rockets. For

I didn’t mention that I had over 100 hand laid switches on CVMW switch tie blocks for over 5 years (code 70) with no problem, but will go back and reactivate with MEK. I’ve just added another 120

I've had CVMW tie strips with code 55 rail down for 5 years now. There are a few places where it did come loose, so I spiked or ACC'ed it (be sure of alignment if using ACC). No problem with code 70

Pliobond was a popular method for gluing rail 30 years ago popularized by Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette. After the rail was glued and bonded with the aid of a hot soldering. After about 15 years

On 7/18/2016 8:42 AM, 'Steve Sandifer' steve.sandifer@... [STMFC] wrote: I'm going to take a swag on this but the CV ties are styrene I believe. The MEK thins the barge

I have 50 hand laid turnouts on my steam era freight car railroad. Many of those 50 are on CV switch tie blocks using the Barge cement activated by MEK method. I have had no problems in 10 years.

On 7/18/2016 8:02 AM, jimbetz jimbetz@... [STMFC] wrote: One article I read (and tried long ago) said to use a soldering iron and heat bond it in place. What I tried