As a 1960's modeler I need many 1950's decals, but the sets almost -never- have reweigh dates or shop stencils later than 1960, and they also almost -never- have any revised GRL numbers (in 1963 the

Clark Isn't this one of the "B&M XM-1" look alike cars? (except for the ends) -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts

Why use a marker at all? Just spray paint the back side of the paper with water based black paint. Or even tape something dark to the back side? One only  needs the background color in order to cut

Here’s two images of the same X-31a boxcar showing some interesting weathering patterns on the roof panels. Are the darker gray areas black roof cement with the PRR Freight car paint over the top of

Charlie That looks really great. Paul Doggett England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Hi Gentlemen, Does anyone know what kind of roof this box car has (see attached photo)? Thanks, John Golden

Hi Eric Super weathering ! After air brushing the tint/flat coat,aside from the panpastles, and colored pencil work did you apply any more air brush weathering? Also did you seal the

Ken, Like Nelson, I rely on magnification and light. I use an optivisor for most work now but for white decals, I need something stronger and for less than the cost of additional optivisor lenses I

I'm coming in late, but I too would read that as an EASY. As to men on the car tops passing signals, worked great on curves. If the man was ten cars back he was easily seen from the cab. A comment

Very nice looking car, Charlie. You’re braver than I am, I went with the post-1950 paint scheme, doing away with hand painting all the hardware. After making color chips from several Tru Color

I really love the decals from Speedwitch and now Nationak Scale Car for the completeness of the sets. I too, however, have a problem reading the decal lettering on the smaller script. I have also

I recently purchased some Reweigh Patches from Smokebox Graphics that includes just such a picture as Dave describes. Scott Haycock Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of

Looks great Charlie. I haven’t forgot you decals and Horn. Hubert Mask

Use a magnifying glass to read the decal sheets. That is the safest way not to ruin your decal set. The decals are usually clustered to give you data for both sides of the car together. Hubert

At a guess, I’d say ex-RI Fowler clone. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...> Reply-To:

That Clark---- Is one of the mid-1920s B-2 Fowler 'clones' that the Salzberg acquired, largely to sell for scrap, from the Rock Island. A number went to the Ft. Dodge Line and four to the WAG in

Wow Charlie, it really looks nice. Well done!! I remember driving around Fla in the early 1960's and seeing many FGEX reefers stored on sidings and no two were the same color yellow. Fenton --

This doesn't really help Ken with his current problem, but I will make this comment: I have been making my own (and a few for friends) decals with a Ghost white laser cartridge for several years. In

The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these. Any help is greatly

This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on. Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the