Just in time for Christmas, Proto:HO Accumate couplers back in stock. Also the boxes, for use with Sergent narrow shank couplers. Pardon the announcement here, but these have been out of stock for a

Cattle have a poor depth perception vision. So the painted lines appear the same as bars across a pit. More than you wanted to know, with photos, at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cattle_grid Doug

Here's a photo of the urban version: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8226029@N06/3441094727/in/photostream/ "Tex"

Nah, the way it was explained to me, the steer gets confused by the closely spaced contrasting lines, and can't decide where it would be safe to place is hoof, so doesn't try. These were appearantly a

Bill, Spent 30 years of my career in West Texas…can’t recall ever seeing a painted cattle guard. The metal ones were a uniform dark rust color and the ones with wooden side “wings” were

Here's a Midwestern one. Chuck Happel Don't take life so seriously son, it ain't no how permanent. Walt Kelly

The Tichy single-sheathed boxcars follow the USRA designs. Data on all the USRA car assignments can be found here: http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/usra-freight-car-assignments/ Each table has

-------- Original Message --------Subject:Tichy Single Sheath BoxcarsDate:2021-12-21 17:13From:santafe@...To:[RealSTMFC]@groups.io Hi All, A few questions about Tichy' single sheath boxcars. 1. Are

Out here in California, our steers must have been less brite then the Texas steers. Case in point; many of our cattle guards were simply white painted strips onto pavement. These guards must have

Some of this depends on the time frame you model. The “grate” was usually made from rail or pipe, so think rusty metal. The wings were either wood or pipe (Texas drill pipe). Metal stuff was

Hi Bill, I'm working from memory, as well, but I recall that the metal portion of the cattle guard was typically a dirt or rusty color (rust + local dirt color) with the tops of the rails or bars

Quick way if your standing in the middle of the freight car and there is no L or R by the door latch look under the car and determine which way the piston on the brake cylinder is pointing It points

While growing up in Texas I encountered numerous cattle guards which I never really paid attention to. Recently while picking up a Kadee order I added one of their cattle guards feeling that it would

Bill Pardie asked: "How does one determine the A and B end on this car?" Bill, It has correctly been pointed out that the car was to be stenciled on the "A" and "B" end as per Interchange Rule 14. An

Bill, Yes, the car may be perfectly symmetrical, or at least without an obvious difference between the ends. So, just as you have an issue figuring it out, it is critical that service folks be able

And ditto, for indcating which are the right and left sides of a car as well as the number of each axle and journal! Ed Bommer

The rule for identifying the B end is: 1. The end having the hand brake; 2. If both ends have a hand brake, the end the brake cylinder push rod points toward; 3. If multiple brake cylinders, one end

Keith Jordan replied: “SFRD classes Rr-35, -36, -39, -40, -43, -45, -46 and -48, all had Royal type “F” brake adjusters, according to the car folio. For slogans, according to the SFRHMS P&L

Railroad Prototype Modelers-Valley Forge 2022 is coming up soon, March 25-27, 2022. The location is the same as in the past, The Desmond Hotel Malvern (PA, about 20 miles west of Philadelphia and

Thanks for reposting the photo Bruce. I had to go back and look at my car. At least I included the towing eyes. . I still don't understand how to identify the A and B end if they ate not labeled.