For Sale is RedCaboose DL&W boxcar 51478 from series 51400-51740. The model wasproduced as a painted kit and is now fully assembled with added weight, addeddetails, correct Kadee trucks, #158 scale

A self-guided home layout tour capped the RPM ValleyForge activities. The latest blog post shares some views of the model railroadsI was able to visit. Check it out.

gary laakso wrote: This photo (LC-USW-36-552) is a different angle from one we looked at recently, LC-USW-36-721, obviously the same location. One might have expected them to be adjacent physical

I just tried MEK on a P2K E unit and it seemed to make a good bond. Mark Vinski

Top picture features army vehicles onflatcars: https://www.loc.gov/resource/fsa.8d27494/ and what appears to be a CNW rip track: https://www.loc.gov/resource/fsac.1a34646/ gary laakso south of

Thoughts on where to find more information on traffic and car loadings. The post contains links to the Santa Fe form index for 1927, 47, 58 and 75. Modeling the ATSF Valley Division Third & Oakland

There are a number of ways to prepare the surface -- it depends onwhat is being bonded, and the condition of the surface. All CA's areaffected by moisture in the air, or on the surfaces, or by oxides

When living in Virginia—2009 and before—I tried Cyanopoxy as it was called then twice and never had any success with it. It was supposedly fresh which I understand is important. It was packaged in

Basically, it is the resin used in an SLA printer. I have used the resin in a printer, not as a glue. Kent in KC nvrr49.blogspot.com

Dave, have you considered contacting Walthers (who took over the P2K line) to see if it’s possible to get a replacement pilot? If they have them, that would be way better than trying to glue the

Looking very good, Pierre!!! Michael Gross Facebook.com/ActorMichaelGross Twitter.com/MichaelGrossBiz

It never occured to me that the tank car straps came in different widths. Any suggestions as to how one determines which width to use? Would it vary with gallonage and/or diameter of the tank? Tim

Hi Dave, Apologies - I didn't realize you were down under. As another thought, I've had better than average results with Plastruct orange label cement - the one for styrene and ABS. From the smell,

Yes..so far it hasn't worked on the items I tried it on. It cured but easily peeled off. Jack Burgess Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 3:58 PM To: STMFC@... Subject: [STMFC] Re: CEMENT

Hi Dave, Mike Rose sells a kind of epoxy ("Cypoxy") that is not cheap but apparently creates a strong molecular bond between most materials, and seems particularly good on most plastics, even

Not too long ago, thinking I would never have a need for them, I sold my only set of Champ decals for the Heinz closed side pickle car (HT-62). Recently I have seen photos of such cars on the Colorado

Tim is right (this time). I swapped in my thinking the pre-war with the post-war 5/6/6. You can add to Tim's CB&Q numbers; I have a builder's photo of #35000, also with a 5/6/6 IYD. What I haven't

Dave, Which Plastruct did you use? The White Label PS is only good for Styrene, but the Orange label PS should work on styrene or ABS. (The pink label is not good for much). Regards , Andy Miller

Has anyone tried the glue that is cured with an ultra violet light – included in the blister pack? Cheers Dave North

photos -- CB&Q 35314, 36008, 36157, 36825 -- 5/6/6 (top to bottom)postwar doors CB&Q 35560 -- 5 panel Superior doors (bottom panel veryslightly smaller) I've never seen one with a pre-war door