I cannot speak to the Soo Line kits, but Dennis' woodgrain work on the CN 500000-series steel frame 40' boxcars is excellent. Steve Lucas.

My room situation changed this week and now I am in search for a shared Hotel room at the Hilton. I would like to share a room from Wednesday night through Saturday night. I promise to keep my bad

I second Jack’s suggestion. I purchased the PBL nippers years ago, they are great, easy to use sharp edges that meet when closed. Made in Switzerland by Utica and worth the money. I use them on

What glue do you use for this ??? I’d hate to destroy the work in progress with a damaging glue. Best to ya, Mike Bauers Milwaukee, Wi

Back in 1998, PBL (which imports brass Sn3 locomotives and sells Sn3 freight car kits) announced the sale of some de-spruing nippers which have since been referred to in our hobby as sprue cutters.

I totally agree with Gene that board by board with strip styrene is the way to go. I use a single edge razor blade to soften the edge of the strip styrene and like 0.040 styrene as the substrate. I

The list owner just approved photos of two cars I built with individual styrene strips. Variations in strip thickness and a softened board edge creates the effect is was looking for. Gene Deimling

M&StL's aluminum boxcars got shadowlining when they were converted for use as trailers behind RDCs. Richard Townsend Lincoln City, OR

That sounds like a fun thing to model. I tried doing the faded/graduated lining graphic in the computer, and it came out and printed well. I’ll have to try making some decals and applying that

Constructing board by board single sheathed cars can be enhanced by lightly sanding the board edge. It will define the boards better. I like to use a thick substrate like .040" styrene. The thing

"V Groove Siding" was Evergreen's original name for their scribed sheet. These were originally produces in decimal inch increments, same as their strip; .030", .040", etc. The craftsman kit

This may be another of those "eyes of the beholder" debates, but on my layout even after several decades of subsequent cast resin models, the best looking siding continues to be Dennis Storzek's

The solution to nice looking single sheathed cars is to build sides board by board using wood, preferably. This approach allows for slight board to board irregularity and preserves the single sheathed

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned in this discussion. If you have a lot of cars that use grooved siding then having a car with faint lines or printing may look wrong since the viewer’s

I was surprised to learn a few years ago that the Northern Pacificused "bead and board" or "novelty" siding on house cars,so there were not only groves between the boards but there were additional

---In STMFC@..., <jcdworkingonthenp@...> wrote : The side of the car is smooth. The appearance of scallops are the work of a talented spray painter. ==================== HEY, THAT'S MEEEEEE... to

Ed, AS Dennis said, Evergreen car siding is V center V siding. Unless you have an unusual single sheathed car, it is not appropriate, but as AL and others have noted… try to sell a car without

I recall a conversation with a mfg that was much in line with Andy's. The reply was like "Yes, I know! However they just don't sell unless you can see the grooves from three feet away. " Of Andy's

I'm a little confused. Should Evergreen car siding be used for single sheathed cars or should V grove siding? How about double sheathed cars? Ed Mines

You can do this very well ….. in