Just read the Mainline Modeler article again. The article shows pictures of a certain Mr. Charles C Loosi who pictured car 26059 (from the 1937-42 renumbering into 26001-26125). The other pix were

Bill, I posess copies of the official Pullman drawings from 1915-1916. Bought these a few years ago to start my brass business with. The 15001-series car is a very interesting one, WP's landmark

I don't have in-service photos either, but to add to Dave's suggestion, a number of these cars moved into MofW service and lasted past the end of the steam era in that role. At least one is preserved

Bill, Yes, but those are probably all the plaster-service cars if they are in the 26001 series. I've never found out where the plaster cars were routed. The first photo in the

The June issue of Model Railroader has an article, "A new look for a 'blue-box' car", that portrays this technique well. John Cizmar

Tom Madden had a good suggestion, "Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color?" I've tried "preshading" techniques too, but

Wow, thank you Garth! The 1953 ORER show 103 cars still in-service. Bill Welch

Garth Groff wrote: Actually, Garth, I was referring to an actual badge which Arved Grass made up, and he and I distributed at Cocoa Beach this year. I showed a photo of it in my blog post about

Tony, No, not a lapel pin. How about something for a vest, a patch maybe? :~) Yours Aye, Garth Groff On 6/1/15 11:54 AM, Tony Thompson tony@...

Bill, The original series was 15001-16000, built by Pullman in 1916. Most of these cars were converted to stock cars, cabooses and MOW cars before WWII, and photos are rare. The

Could you please post photos Charlie? Bill Welch

Tom's method sounds more like what I've done -- base color, then lighter and darker shades of the same color, so that the model prior to decals & weathering is not entirely the same color. Plus it

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED Caveats: NONE Tom; You brought up an interesting point. I was dissatisfied with the way several of my models turned out, and went back and looked at photos to see what

Bill, I don’t have any myself (missed one off eBay the other day). If you need reference photos for making a model take a close look at the WP “cabeese” that were converted from these boxcars.

Ray, a builder's photo of your 50-ton truck appears in Westerfield's DVD on American Car & Foundry Builder's Photos 1899-1928. It shows the cast-on lettering. Or you could buy a pair of my HO scale

Would it help to spray the model with body color first, then do the shading, then a final, lighter coat of body color? That way when you spray the final coat you can pay attention to the degree of

I recently tried the pre-shading technique on my rib side boxcar projects. As was mentioned, the follow on colors need to be thinner or you'll cover it up. I also came back with lighter color in

I recently used pre-shading with black on a couple of SS boxcar models and liked the contrast when it was finished. I shaded only the metal parts of the model with black and then airbrushed the

Jim Betz wrote: Jim, let me dig around and see if I still have a lapel badge to give you, containing Richard Hendrickson's remark, "Rivets Count." Tony Thompson Editor, Signature

Tell them, thanks to your hobby, you can't afford too! Those STMFC's are too plentiful. Tim Barney