---In STMFC@..., <elombard@...> wrote : Hello Everyone, I have uploaded a spreadsheet that tabulates all USRA Single-sheathed cars built NEW as well as all so far uncovered that were renumbered or

Nelson I am using their D&RGW Freight car red, a reddish brown. Polyscale had several boxcar colors (including a Zinc Chromite that I use for PRR) and while Modelflex is my main paint, I have decided

about removing their paints, but they didn’t say anything about substrate survival. What are the effects of short time exposure of resin and styrene (Evergreen) to brake fluid, and are all brake

Bill, Which Poly Scale color or mix are you going to use on your CB&Q models? I struggled with that for a couple of years, and finally decided to wait for Tru Color to release TCP-240, CB&Q Freight

A Little bit of more research confirms that this is animal feed. Malt sprouts consist of dried sprouts and rootlets produced during the malting(germination of sprouting) of barley for brewing. Sprouts

As I prepare to paint a couple of Speedwitch CB&Q models with some discontinued Polyscale acrylic paint (I prefer working with acrylics) I was thinking about Nelson's question regarding paint

Those should fit commercial betacam decks. Check with your local TV news department. They may possibly have an old unit or two if they haven't gone or have very recently gone to digital recording. Tim

I want to build a model of a weed sprayer with roof-top sprayer guns in addition to the track-level sprayer arms. My problem is coming up with something to use for the topside sprayer guns. I thought

Howard Garner wrote: I think Howard is right that the malt was for feed. The Door County Coop, the consignee for this load, sells (and has sold for many years) feed, farm supplies and propane. I

Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the STMFC group. File : /USRA Single-sheathed XM.xlsx Uploaded by :

Hello Everyone, I have uploaded a spreadsheet that tabulates all USRA Single-sheathed cars built NEW as well as all so far uncovered that were renumbered or rebuilt and renumbered but retained their

Allen, Floquil thinner was a mix of toluene and xylene. The chemical composition of Testor’s Universal Thinner isn’t given on the can, and I haven’t looked for the MSDS, so I don’t know

I live in Arizona, where any paint can flash before hitting the surface. But I have been having big problems with Tru color, as you described. I too use an Iwata. I called the company and they

The STCC may be incorrect. My Dec 1988 does not list 20 833 xx. It does list 20 832 10 as Malt Flour, barley or wheat,or barley or wheat mixed with grain flour. 20 832 20 is Barley or Rye Sprouts

Tim, Yes, I washed with Dawn, rinsed well, and dried. I'm thinking about rinsing with 70% isopropanol after that on the next paint batch. I primed with Tamiya Fine White Primer. I use White for

Mike, that wasn’t the question. I already know the issues re grainy paint i.e. too much air pressure and/or too far away. What I want to know is, what do I strip Tru Color paint. You didn’t

The CNWHS has a number of tapes what they would like to seewhat they are. The one on my desk is named R#9 Freeze 10-29-87 Railroad. It is on a Sony BCT-20K BETACAN tape. I know this is beyond this

Tim O'Connor wrote: I have found that even with careful cleaning of resin parts (mold release, oils, whatever), Tru-Color does not seem to stick well to resin. I agree with Tim, prime it first

With AP (and probably TruColor) you can get "premature drying" from having too little thinner/retarder in the mix, and you can also get "blushing" (which looks flat and grainy) from high humidity. But

Nelson If Tru Color behaves anything like Accupaint, an overspray of thinner with a couple drops of retarder should repair the damage. Remember that AP and TruColor are lacquers, not enamels -- they