Missed it on the proof reading. Should be: John H. White's, "The American Railroad Passenger Car" (specifically Volume II). Sorry. -- John

Ribbed back, or more properly, chilled iron wheels were very popular with the railroads because of their low initial cost. However, since they could not be turned if flat-spotted, they proved to be

A few days ago there was a discussion about the purpose of ribbed back wheels, and the answer was the "ribs" were there for cooling during forming - casting of the iron wheels. But, when did we see

Thanks Richard, Of note, the model comes with a black roof; the photo you so graciouslyprovided shows the ends black but, if I am not mistaken, the roof in the samecolour as the sides. Very

Thanks for these references Schuyler. This and the photos passed on byRichard will help bring the model together. As I model 1946, thesmall diamond on this model will be fine I expect. Rob Kirkham

Eight to twelve dollars for 16oz. Shipping costs as much as the product so if you can get it locally it would be better. -- Jon MillerFor me time stopped in 1941Digitrax--Chief/Zephyr

I swear by Photo-Flo also. My current bottle is getting low, so I was just thinking that it is time to find another one (the current one has lasted me almost 10 years - it really goes a long

My "go-to" surfacent... Same tiny bottle... same 2-decade age! Don't know if the recipe has changed... but the current product available (Kodak Photo-Flo 200) is: 60-70% Water 25-30% Propylene

Age and type of decal paper can affect how well I can get ALPS off the paper. My best experience has been with new paper from Tango Papa (Tom Prestia), who makes his own. If I try to print on his

If it is still available, Kodak’s “Photo-flo” is better than detergent for breaking surface tension. One loaded brushful is enough to relax the tension on a saucerful of distilled water. And

That's correct. Carmen cut levers were exceptionally high spirited andflirtatious.

I'd guess coupler (or pin) lift bar would applyonly when the lever went to the top of the coupler. Eric N.

Hi Clark, Formally (as in Cyclopedias) it's the "uncoupling lever," but many railroaders call it the "cut lever" for what it does. "Coupler lift bar" is a model railroad term as far as I can

Denny, I had a similar experience some years ago. Wound up stripping some of the paint and redecaling. The ink wouldn't soften with setting solution Contact me off list for the gory details. Pierre

Not so long ago, Bill Darnaby reported application problems with some custom decals (Alps) that he was attempting to apply, namely that they simply would not settle or draw down, no matter what.

Andrew Miller wrote: That would be "Carmer," name of the maker of a specific product. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705

Andy, those are “Carmer” levers, not ‘carmen’ levers. Carmer was a specific design and a particular manufacturer. Schuyler

No. Bill Schnieder would be offended at the suggestion. From what’s visible in the builder’s photos, it appears to have been mineral red except at the extreme end, which were black like the car

Nuts, I should have added that there is a diagram book in the Erie/EL/DL&W section that can define the group of cars you’re dealing with. Schuyler

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/erie82525bdb.jpg http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/el/frt/erie82525adb.jpg Rob, these should answer your questions, though I suspect you have a large (six foot)