Clark, Look in one of the car builders cyclopedias. These will literally tell you what kitchen sink was used in passenger cars,among other appliances and hardware.There are diagrams of coupler

We've been using MicroScale decal film in both clear and white and alsotheir Micro Sol decal set for over 11 years without any problems on Alpsprinter. Have no reason to change at this point as it's

FWIW, I have always used blue-backing BEL decal paper in my ALPS and I have printed decals that are close to 10 years old that still float off and snuggle down nicely. Really thin film too, when

Alps printed decals can be tough to get to settle around surface details, especially rows of rivets among other things. This depends a lot on how they were printed and, to some extent, cannot be

Rob Kirkham wrote: Exactly. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510)

Tony, I take it this also explains the existence of cast iron wheelswithout ribs – i.e. ribs weren’t necessary? Rob Kirkham

Paul Hillman wrote: Not sure what discussion you reference. But it is simply NOT true that the ribs had anything to do with cooling. They are there to strengthen AND stiffen the wheel. Later

Missed it on the proof reading. Should be: John H. White's, "The American Railroad Passenger Car" (specifically Volume II). Sorry. -- John

Ribbed back, or more properly, chilled iron wheels were very popular with the railroads because of their low initial cost. However, since they could not be turned if flat-spotted, they proved to be

A few days ago there was a discussion about the purpose of ribbed back wheels, and the answer was the "ribs" were there for cooling during forming - casting of the iron wheels. But, when did we see

Thanks Richard, Of note, the model comes with a black roof; the photo you so graciouslyprovided shows the ends black but, if I am not mistaken, the roof in the samecolour as the sides. Very

Thanks for these references Schuyler. This and the photos passed on byRichard will help bring the model together. As I model 1946, thesmall diamond on this model will be fine I expect. Rob Kirkham

Eight to twelve dollars for 16oz. Shipping costs as much as the product so if you can get it locally it would be better. -- Jon MillerFor me time stopped in 1941Digitrax--Chief/Zephyr

I swear by Photo-Flo also. My current bottle is getting low, so I was just thinking that it is time to find another one (the current one has lasted me almost 10 years - it really goes a long

My "go-to" surfacent... Same tiny bottle... same 2-decade age! Don't know if the recipe has changed... but the current product available (Kodak Photo-Flo 200) is: 60-70% Water 25-30% Propylene

Age and type of decal paper can affect how well I can get ALPS off the paper. My best experience has been with new paper from Tango Papa (Tom Prestia), who makes his own. If I try to print on his

If it is still available, Kodak’s “Photo-flo” is better than detergent for breaking surface tension. One loaded brushful is enough to relax the tension on a saucerful of distilled water. And

That's correct. Carmen cut levers were exceptionally high spirited andflirtatious.

I'd guess coupler (or pin) lift bar would applyonly when the lever went to the top of the coupler. Eric N.

Hi Clark, Formally (as in Cyclopedias) it's the "uncoupling lever," but many railroaders call it the "cut lever" for what it does. "Coupler lift bar" is a model railroad term as far as I can