I was looking for some stripwood for a totally non-freight car related project when I ran across this on the Northeastern Scale Models web

Tom, Tim, The carbody is a good starting point for other SFRD kitbashes. Unless modeling a car requiring later Dreadnaught ends, the die work on the sides is excellent with nothing to carve off

They no doubt have Tim… they’ve all been let go… Because the ends were separate parts it was possible to put the wrong ends in with a kit. We used to do everything that we could to minimize

there should be a small slip of paper inside the box indicated who packed the kit. they should be reprimanded!

lol! that's a keeper. you can run it as two different cars in your op session.

Tom The roof and underbody are the problem areas of the C&BT reefers. I bought some replacement Intermountain roofs, but it turns out to be very non-trivial to correctly install the replacements.

Dennis, You might talk to Singer, I think Greedy might know. John are you out there? Greg Martin Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs throughit. Norman Maclean

Tom, I believe the difference is in the roof too tall and too wide. I know mybrother was so unhappy with the idea of correcting the C&BT Shops roof hescratch built one instead... It was the subject

Ya, I get that. I keep track of such places so if my family vacation takes me close, I can think about adding a day here and there. Usually it is preserved rolling stock - there is a bunch of it I'd

In reading the Keith Jordan note from Sept 2002, it's a little ambiguous if he meant the roof or the body was 9 inches too wide. But I just measured a C&BT Rr19 reefer and an Intermountain Rr 23. The

Re "most needed" NYC cars: As someone stated earlier, the NYC had only 1000 33' inside stake AAR hoppers(Lot 733-H). But the NYC did have 9000 31'6" 2210 CUFT inside stake hoppers plus 7150 31' 5

Guys, Does a Pressed Steel Car Co. photo archives exist, is it accessible, and does anyone know where it's at? Dennis Storzek

Thanks Dave – Andy On Thursday, October 24, 2013 3:28 PM, "paul.doggett2472@..." Dave Thanks for sharing Paul Doggett UK ---In STMFC@..., wrote: I have

I have one with different numbers on opposite sides. Allen Cain Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Tablet

Yes Bob, a neat little company named Free State Systems makes them out of etched brass. Very nice product. You can Google them Fenton Wells -- Fenton Wells 5 Newberry Lane Pinehurst NC

Hi Guys! Does anyone make a HO scale Carmer cut lever as used on the USRA 40'ss boxcars? Thanks! Bob Weston

I wish to add some info for this Branchline car. These cars were built in 1947 and shared a singular detail with its other alumni of '47 users of Youngstown doors--the presence of the one-year only

Duh, my goof. I was only thinking of decorated kits. So you are saying the undecs have the "Version A,B, or C etc" on them. In which case the posting here with the "decode" will be handy. Or

Today working on a Branchline Trains 40' boxcar lettered for UP 197823, kit 1434. I found the factory applied end numbers did not match the numbers on the sides. I used Clover House dry transfers

A. F. Klasing's very first hand brake was applied to San Antonio and Aransas Pass "brick and sand" car number 2420 in June 1911. "Brick and sand" car is a new term to me. Can anyone shed any light