Ben, I used a BLI, NYC body (Murphy Ends) and grafted in a Red Caboose X-29 roof. The door was a cut down Red Caboose Superior. I used decals made by Tom Jacobs, they are for sale on his Reading

Robert as for a “hand held motor tool to mill/router off grab irons and other details” I have tried the Dremel tool with a wood block inside the car body and with a #199 bit as shown in photo

YES A HARD Arkansas stone is splendid for touching up a blade. -- Ted Larson Trainweb.org/MHRR --- GN in 1965 --- NASG.org

I also use dental tools found at train shows, for a fraction of the prices Micromark and UMM are asking. And there is a much wider variety of dental tools. Years ago I

You can kitbash a NYC 31'-6" IL offset side hopper by taking 1'-6" out of the middle of an Athearn, Accurail or Atlas model. You get a correct length but the car isn't tall enough. Only 4" height

... oh yes, I have a 10 inch lazy susan and a 6x6x6 "cup box" that sits in the middle of the floor of the spray booth. The models I'm painted go on top of that small box - by first putting them on an

Glen, When painting you are continually handling small bottles of stuff and other delicate items (models, model parts, etc.). I have my paint booth set up for just that reason ... so I'm sitting

Folks, As I've been following this thread, it seems that there is no ready-made accessory that will remove cast-on details from steam era freight cars. Since it appears that such a fixture will need

Good info - thanks Doug. Nice to know someone has gone there already. I was imagining something a little simpler; - a depth stop that could mount around the collet and be set at the level of the

Ben, the Westerfield or the BLI Spec 486 8'7 IH boxcar might be a good place to start. I haven't studied the Murphy-end XMts closely, so I'm not sure exactly how different it is from the NYC cars. Of

I have a router base attachment that came with my Dremel decades

The January 1988 MR article was in response to just such a death. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Kenneth Montero <va661midlo@...> Reply-To:

Glen, I believe that Todd is absolutely correct, especially when using solvent-based paints, which contain volatile organic compounds (VOC) - the fumes need to be vented outside to

Mine is set up on a rolling tool chest, which gives me drawers for paints, airbrushes, etc. The ductwork feeds a couple of dryer flapper valves let into the garage door. I’ll be happy to send

I was given several dental tools years ago. A couple are narrow chisels that are great to use in removing cast on grab irons. Another is a wider scraper that levels the are of the grab iron. A couple

Here is an alternative to filing blades down for chiseling. I use the Micro Knife from Micro-Mark. I have had this for many years and find it quite useful. 5-piece Micro Knife Set

I like the various micro size UMM chisels. Example here. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=7431 Brian J. Carlson -- Brian J. Carlson, P.E. Cheektowaga NY

John, The X-acto no. 17 blade can be used as a chisel by using a file to round off the corners. A file can also be used to narrow the width of the blade, but that takes quite a bit of

Hi Johannes, The second one from the top is a #178 and these were factory installs on some Intermountain cars (and maybe other brands). The coupler box has a heart shaped boss or post, with a flat

There is an article on them over on the Steam Era Freight Cars website: http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/gallery/boxauto/rdg102751main.html I have a scan of one of these cars, #100225, on the