The roof panels on the 50 foot P2K double door and single door boxcars are 15 panes as I count them. I use the 50 singel door for the Southern 10IH car and the double door cars for the 10'-6" IH

I seldom find myself disagreeing with Dennis, but in this case he is adding further confusion on a topic on a topic where there has already been considerable unnecessary confusion - and that when

I found something interesting. I have a couple of historic Athearn cars which will soon be built again using Branchline...or something...and a P2K that is on the temporary workbench now. Yes, the

Steve Lucas wrote: This would account for a number of observations of Canadian cars evidently moving in intra-U.S. service. It sounds like perhaps this is kind of like the Car Service Rules,

About a year ago I tested several products to see if I could find a really good product that could strip paint off of models.... - without rushing me to the hospital because I inhaled the product's

I have asked the same question on a difference list and got many of the same answers. I would think that the car/Loco Mfg. should be able to tell us all what would work and what will melt the

Yup. It appears they did the same thing Athearn did decades ago. The S.R.E.Co. roof products used the same size panel for both 40'and 50' foot cars, 3'5" wide; twelve on the 40' and fifteen on the

Chet and Tony-- Well known to Canadian roads was the penchant of US roads to keep Canadian cars during car shortages. One of Ian Wilson's books mentions CN train crews being cautioned to be wary of

These cars (unlike Branchline) have the roof cast with the sides, not as a separate piece.  I have altered similarly made accurail cars by cutting repeatedly along the roof with an exacto knife even

10 replies and not a one suggested how Mark could get the roof off : )) I'd try running a blade along the sides, then try prying? RTR sucks! Clark Propst

If you want to make a 10 IH car out of a P2K just make a cut throught the top rib, at least with the SR cars that gave me the 4/5 end I needed. I'm attaching a picture of the A end of the SR 10 IH

Tim said, Proto made the stampings of the roof panels far too wide. Tim, Does this mean there are to few panels in the overall lenght of the roof? Paul Lyons

Mark, My apology... a correction (typo) against my previous posting. NKP 87100-871099 should be 10-4 IH. NOT 10-6 IH as I had typed. Ooops! :-) Ron dePierre

He wants to use a Viking replacement roof, although many modelers don't know, or have forgotten, that all of the early run Proto 2000 box cars (and all of their end-door box cars) have a bogus roof.

Except for the double rivet seams, the P2K cars match the 87100 series. The factory painted cars are in this series. I used one of Tom Madden's roof castings for mine, it turned out well. Tim

... only by modelers who haven't a clue. There have also been published references to corrugated ends that call them "Youngstown" ends, apparently because they look kind of like the doors. I think

The original question and series he's referring to had Viking roofs. Hardly present on a P2K or Athearn hense his question. Jerry Glow

Mark, The exercise that you are entertaining might be better for the 87100 series. Bear in mind that the P2K car is not really suited for either series depending upon the final result that you are

Good question Jerry. In my case I used the Life Like roof and replaced the car sides. You could canibalize just about any roof you want as long as it fits. I'm sure Life Like and Branchline or even

What if anything do you have beside a replacement roof? I bought one from Stan Rydarowicz but the Nov '86 Mainline Modeler article indicates (and shows a pic) that they had double Creco doors. Jerry