I would like to thank Ray for some great information. I have adding it to the database and reuploaded it. Thanks Tim

Tim,I have about ten C&BT cars,some with and some without cast on details.I have upgraded all of them,some could use more.I quess I have been spoiled by Speedwitch and Westerfield.I never considered

Armand Premo wrote: As Tim said, Armand, you should start with the kits WITHOUT cast- on detail. I entirely agree with you that I would never start removing cast-on ladders. And yes, the

Armand, the first few years of C&BT production had no cast-on ladders or grabs. Those are the kits you want to use -- leave the shake the box kits for Ebay... :-) Actually I found that if you sand

Al Brown wrote C&BT made 28 different combinations -- the "t" end is a late style tapered dreadnaught end, and the "r" means "rolling pin". The taper end was Dick's last version of the box cars

Boy did I stick my neck out on that one.The underbody detail is horrible and should be totally replaced.Cast on ladders are a chore to remove as are the grab irons.The rivets are too large,the doors

one (thanks for suggesting it) and sent me scurrying back out to the workshop. Sometimes I am amazed at what I have stashed away out there, and I found I had one. But I don't think it will work as

C&BT shells come with either 4/4 or 1/3/4 ends, too, and either rectangular- or diagonal-panel roofs. Not *all* combinations were made, but a lot were. Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

Hi, My experience is different. If you let the prior coat DRY COMPLETELY (as in several days) - and if you use light/dusting coats (which you should be doing any way) and build up the following

Tim is entirely correct about this. The basic C&BT car bodies, floors, underframes, and doors are pretty good and easily made better with a little tweaking. Most of the detail parts are a

Tim O'Connor wrote: I agree, Tim. But what Armand probably was referring to is the dreadful detail parts. So repeat after me: THROW AWAY all (yes, ALL) the detail sprues and use aftermarket

I don't know why folks run down the C&BT box cars. Are they as good as Branchline cars? No. But they can be built into perfectly respectable models. To model a double door car I'd always look first at

To add to Schuyler's comment, acrylic paints almost all use alcohol or some other organic as a solvent. Since alcohol and water are miscible, water can be used to thin and clean up these paints.

Rather crude by present standards.Hardly worth the effort IMHO ,but I quess it's the show in town. .Armand Premo

The suggestion to use the C&BT double door box car is an interesting one (thanks for suggesting it) and sent me scurrying back out to the workshop. Sometimes I am amazed at what I have stashed away

Water is the vehicle, not the "solvent." If it were the solvent, it would later wash off with water, not a desirable feature. SGL From: hacketet Remember it this way: The 'solvent' is

Remember it this way: The 'solvent' is latex paint is just water. The solvents in lacquer paints smell (and act) like paint stripper.

Hey Folks, You can order Scalecoat products through me. Motrak Models is a dealer for Scalecoat paints and thinner. Just send me an email at motrakmodels@.... Thanks, Jeff Adam Motrak

I'd also be willing to pre-order and prepay for one in a large size....let me know.... Thanks, Bob Slavinski ________________________________ To: STMFC@... Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2011

A builder's photo of CTTX 8511 appears in RP CYC 10, p 102, right below the photo of SHPX 89. Didn't notice it earlier. Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.