This is an interesting technique to facilitate positioning the parts before applying (fast setting) CA. I have had to unbond a CA joint on a few occasions when I wasn't satisfied with the fit and

Thank You for these shortcuts Ray. Great help for NYC cars. Mark Morgan

Ricky (not signing his full name) wrote: The glue does not "soak in" to metals, glass, plastics etc. But "prime" is probably a good word in accelerating the setting. There are lots of CA

Ray, your point is well made, and can't be made often enough. Age, weathering, lighting, all influence the appearance of paint color dramatically. Not to mention the size of the object and the

Jim Hayes, You mentioned using one of the Tech-Bond adhesives. There are a number of them on the web site - which one do you specifically use and do you pruchase it locally or via the

While I don't have any personal experience, there have been reports of baking soda/cyanoacrylate joints failing over

Makes great landing gear struts for 1/48 scale aircraft models too. Oops wrong list! I love it as well. Bill Welch

KL wrote I love white metal stuff. It's great for many uses, esp detail parts with thin cross sections. It's easily drilled, easily filed, easily cut, has good strength and flexibility/plasticity, is

I can. Paint "brown", weather to

Ricky (who isn't signing his name in accordance with list guidelines) asked: "I am currently building Sunshine's NYC 1-1/2 Door Rebuilt steel Boxcars Kit series #93 The instructions state a 50/50 mix

So... a simple lookup of Cyanoacrylate with Google reveals that chemically it is a weak acid, and that "accelerator" or "activator" is simply an akaline or base chemical that neutralizes the acid. The

Ricky, The term "boxcar red" has to be the most commonly used 2 words to describe what is really hundreds of shades of paint used to paint boxcars and other industrial things. The Floquil "boxcar red"

Bill - Looks like the end decal is fogged. Guess Armour didn't use a setting solution! - Al Westerfield

I am currently building Sunshine's NYC 1-1/2 Door Rebuilt steel Boxcars Kit series #93 The instructions state a 50/50 mix Floquil Boxcar Red and Oxide Red nearly replicates NYC freight car brown while

I think the advantage in the Loctite system is in the Activator which "primes" the material allowing the CA to soak in instead of just lay on the surface. The Activator might work with other brands of

OK, never used cyanopoxy. In my model building I have used thin and gap-filling CA glue for resin (*) to resin, brass, steel, aluminum, copper, styrene, and white metal. The only joints that

I do not have a precise link but here is a link to one of the photos I found. Everyone on this list will love this 1903 scene showing an Armour owned FGE reefer being loaded with bananas in New

Hi , My method is Walthers Goo for initial bond with an application of ACC after . The joint is stronger than the resin , learned the hard way after a mistake . I use the micro tips on the Goo to

When I build resin carbodies, especially closed cars, I only use CA to "tack" parts together and then use generous applications of good old Epoxy to ensure permanent bonds. I have a Sunshine gondola

Fred That is the one that this conversation is about. I picked up a couple packs of the two part adhesive last evening at home depot. I got home and gave it a try and it appeared to work just fine.