While the problem with the Gould tank car was known early ,we should remember that.the only other mass produced tank cars available at the time were Athearn ,AHM ,Tyco and Life Like .By

No problem. I've done it a lot of times. see http://www.ssandifer.com/Lay/Howard/Const/LED/LEDClinic.ppt and skip down to about slide #30. After I have created the bend, I put some forceps around

I agree Tony -- the Tichy can only be a stand in, but it is just a beautiful model, one of the best engineered plastic models ever. Every HO modeler should at least build one to appreciate it and then

Thanks for the help! That's why I asked -- it seemed to me the handrails that come with the Red Caboose tank car were too small in diameter, but only somewhat -- they measure out to .016.

Yes. Certainly true in the '50s, though more true earlier than later. No. All the photos I have of Bx-11s rebuilt with raised roofs show them with wood running boards, even fairly late in

Steve Must be fun trying to get that wire out after making a 90 degree bend in the tubing, no? Tim O'Connor

That's ONE problem, but not the only one. Anyway, the Gould/Tichy underframe can be modified into a fairly decent representation of an AC&F underframe by adding thin styrene flanges to represent

--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <brianleppert@...> wrote: Cliff Grandt liked brass. I recall the Grandt clan using aluminum, though it's been many years since I toured their

After a long wait, I am again offering Intermountain semi-scale code 88 33 inch HO wheelsets. MSRP of $10.00/pack of 12 axles, I can offer these at $6.00/pack. If interested in purchasing these, I

I recycle the metal applicator tubing that comes is part of the bottle for Faller "Expert" and "Super Expert" Cement for Plastics to join tubing. I think it is stainless steel. Jim Ogden Fort

Ngineering makes .018" OD stainless tubing that will fit over a .012" wire. I use it for electrical conduit for LED wiring. Being stainless, it is hard, so cut with a cut off disk and file smooth.

All the Gould tooling was cut in 7075 T6 aluminum. Cliff Grandt liked brass. Brian Leppert Carson City, NV

To give credit where credit is due, Martin originally included the small stainless steel tubing in his Insulated Type 27 kit. To cut this tubing I have a created a fixture while I cut it with a

Yes, taken care of, Brass will serve adequately. But the hardness and clamping properties are mush less desireable than many of the alloys of aluminum. Jimmy runs his parts rather slowly (He has too,

Andy Many people say this about aluminum molds, but Jimmy Booth told me he got 250,000 kits from his aluminum Eel River box car mold, before he sold it -- still-serviceable. Tim O'Connor

Remember those old glue bottles Detail Assoc (?) used to sell for thin cement like Tenax? (I don't use them because the glue just evaporates in the bottle.) They came with a "hypodermic" tube - I'm

Denny Anspach wrote: Hopefully RIchard Hendrickson will chime in on this. But here's what I understand: the "USRA tank car" kit is a superb representation of the USRA drawings, developed in

Gene Green wrote: There are lots of tank car drawings in Cycs and Train Sheds, and plenty more in Kaminski's AC&F Tank Car book. All the ones I've seen call for 1-1/4 inch pipe. This is a

I would STRONGLY recommend keeping the sharp Xacto blade far enough away from a stock car side as possible! I hardly ever use a sharp Xacto blade for any flash removing--that is what sandpaper was

Al Brown wrote: The "smoke from head" is because you're not using Ted's method: he used hypodermic tubing, stainless steel, and wonderful stuff. I just put a piece of the size wire it will