--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <brianleppert@...> wrote: Cliff Grandt liked brass. I recall the Grandt clan using aluminum, though it's been many years since I toured their

After a long wait, I am again offering Intermountain semi-scale code 88 33 inch HO wheelsets. MSRP of $10.00/pack of 12 axles, I can offer these at $6.00/pack. If interested in purchasing these, I

I recycle the metal applicator tubing that comes is part of the bottle for Faller "Expert" and "Super Expert" Cement for Plastics to join tubing. I think it is stainless steel. Jim Ogden Fort

Ngineering makes .018" OD stainless tubing that will fit over a .012" wire. I use it for electrical conduit for LED wiring. Being stainless, it is hard, so cut with a cut off disk and file smooth.

All the Gould tooling was cut in 7075 T6 aluminum. Cliff Grandt liked brass. Brian Leppert Carson City, NV

To give credit where credit is due, Martin originally included the small stainless steel tubing in his Insulated Type 27 kit. To cut this tubing I have a created a fixture while I cut it with a

Yes, taken care of, Brass will serve adequately. But the hardness and clamping properties are mush less desireable than many of the alloys of aluminum. Jimmy runs his parts rather slowly (He has too,

Andy Many people say this about aluminum molds, but Jimmy Booth told me he got 250,000 kits from his aluminum Eel River box car mold, before he sold it -- still-serviceable. Tim O'Connor

Remember those old glue bottles Detail Assoc (?) used to sell for thin cement like Tenax? (I don't use them because the glue just evaporates in the bottle.) They came with a "hypodermic" tube - I'm

Denny Anspach wrote: Hopefully RIchard Hendrickson will chime in on this. But here's what I understand: the "USRA tank car" kit is a superb representation of the USRA drawings, developed in

Gene Green wrote: There are lots of tank car drawings in Cycs and Train Sheds, and plenty more in Kaminski's AC&F Tank Car book. All the ones I've seen call for 1-1/4 inch pipe. This is a

I would STRONGLY recommend keeping the sharp Xacto blade far enough away from a stock car side as possible! I hardly ever use a sharp Xacto blade for any flash removing--that is what sandpaper was

Al Brown wrote: The "smoke from head" is because you're not using Ted's method: he used hypodermic tubing, stainless steel, and wonderful stuff. I just put a piece of the size wire it will

Run some small diameter wire (such as .006") in the tubing first, then cut with a cut-off disc. Helps to keep the i.d. clean and round. -Andy Carlson Ojai

Denny Anspach says...regarding the "old" Gould tank car: "How I paint and decal it is yet an open question, however." There's a simple answer to that. Paint it Tarnished Black. Then decal it

Which is why when I wanted several tanks, I purposely looked for Gould produced kits, as the molds would have been lower mileage. Bill Gould liked to use brass for his tooling--a preference not

The Sunshine X-3 kit comes with a little length of metal tubing meant for this purpose. I totally failed to cut it (tried a Dremel cutoff disc, but my skill isn't up to it), so used *plastic* tubing

A bill of materials I have for a lot of AC&F tank cars indicates the handrails are 1-1/4" pipe.  The outside diameter of standard pipe is 1.660" -- in line with Gene Green's measuremants.  I have

Bruce Smith: And the two-pack of ore cars. Plus I think Gould had cut the tooling for many of the PFE reefer parts before selling to Gould. Tom Madden

patterns? The 1982 high price on the box of $14.95 is >telling as to its relative place amongst the relatively low prices of the time, perhaps the reason why it was apparently not on >the market very