Use a magnifying glass to read the decal sheets. That is the safest way not to ruin your decal set. The decals are usually clustered to give you data for both sides of the car together. Hubert

At a guess, I’d say ex-RI Fowler clone. Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...> Reply-To:

That Clark---- Is one of the mid-1920s B-2 Fowler 'clones' that the Salzberg acquired, largely to sell for scrap, from the Rock Island. A number went to the Ft. Dodge Line and four to the WAG in

Wow Charlie, it really looks nice. Well done!! I remember driving around Fla in the early 1960's and seeing many FGEX reefers stored on sidings and no two were the same color yellow. Fenton --

This doesn't really help Ken with his current problem, but I will make this comment: I have been making my own (and a few for friends) decals with a Ghost white laser cartridge for several years. In

The attached photo is from (I believe) the 1956 FtDDM&S annual report. Car is listed as rebuilt. Has a new roof? The 7/7 ends should help those in the know where they got these. Any help is greatly

This is my version of the mini-kit that I missed out on. Accurail wood reefer body; queen posts from my parts bin, Champ Blue Ribbon FGE decals (the Speedwitch ones just wouldn’t lay in the

Lighting angle and intensity make a difference. I can read all but the smallest print by holding the decal vertically at the front edge of my 10 in. dia. shop light shade. That makes the lettering

I have tried with smartphone camera and this all I get This new decal paper is a problem.... -- Ken Adams Still in splendid Shelter In Place solitude, about half way up Walnut Creek Owner

Ken you might try taking a photo of the decal with your smart phone an then just enlarge the photo to read the decal. Lester Breuer

I use my cell phone camera and zoom in on them a couple of inches away to read them. Infact I find myself doing this a lot to read numbers off circuit boards and such at work as the peepers are not

Ken, Previously on this list we have discussed this, and I believe it was Richard Hendrickson who did a study of his own photo library that indicated that around 10% of boxcars were weighed off home

Thanks Al. PRR apparently used a unique system of a location number with a P prefix to identify reweigh stations. Other RR's usually used a location abbreviation. How often would an older PRR boxcar

I also ruined a set with a black marker. Others swear it works. I think the issue is that I and perhaps you used a permanent marker which contained solvents that attacked the decal film. I suspect

Steve, You can also use 300 or 600 grit sandpaper, which I have done to good effect as well to weather lettering. Regards, Bruce Smith Auburn, AL

Don't forget that brands like Tamiya, Mr. Hobby, Alclad, and Humbrol offer various model paints, which include some clear coats. I haven't used them (yet) but there should still be some choices once

I would have done your D116 set but couldn't find it online. So I did the following set to show results. NSC - Wabash Decals Use a computer photo app to invert and change to grayscale and then

Yes, there is some price gouging online. I went back to Dullcote, but I don’t know how long that will be available. I’m stocking up enough to do around 35 cars, just in case. Nelson Moyer

Ken Adams wrote: "Like many of you I too have received one of the excellent Rapido X31a box cars. The only modification needed is to change the reweigh date to a period within 48 months prior to the

I will say that they applied the standard of what lengths they would go to, based on how much $ they’d get in return. Coiled Steel? Brand new G41 gons Auto parts? Brand new, biggest and