Rick, I don't bother trying to use those tubes/tips that come with the glue. With the rather humid conditions in Southern Ontario I find that they clog up rather quiclly. I simply dispense a small

The only CA that I use is thin ZAP by Pacer Industries (dark pink bottle). I buy only the smallest bottles. They come with a Teflon tube which is inserted in the tip of the bottle after cutting off

I would like to hear what others are using for applicator tips for ACC glue bottles. How do you keep them from clogging? How do you clean them out when clogged? In particular, I have been using

Sorry for the message that was intended to go to DesPlaines Hobbies! Charlie Vlk

Ron- Set two of the MILW Ribside Box Cars aside for me if you will. I forgot to mention to you that I won't be in town Saturday.... but you already knew that since you scheduled a Sale this

Just a note to let anyone interested know that we are now shipping the new Fox Valley Models 40' double door rib side boxcars. There are 4 numbers available with "Route of the Hiawatha" lettering.

This is a Walter Lucas book that I did not have in my Library (three other titles by him that I do have are 100 Years of Classic Steam Locomotives, Locomotives and Cars Since 1900, and 100 Years of

I have an 8 page bulletin from Yankee Clipper which includes requested drawings and over 30 photos. According to the bulletin there were 3 phases of underframes : 1 for the experimental cars, 2 for

The RC 40' DD is also very close to some NP cars rebuilt by one of the lessors from D&LW single door cars. The main difference is that the NP cars were modified with a heavier side sill. However,

Hi Bill; I think what need is Vol. 2 of Ted's publication "Prototype Railroad Modeling". It has an article (by Ted) "AAR Inspired Forty Foot Steel Automobile Cars, Part One", which shows several cars

Tim O'Connor wrote: You're right, I didn't count the ribs. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705

Dennis Storzek wrote: This is true. The "big picture" is that the end is turned around 180 degrees, but the way it's implemented in detail is NOT simply the same part applied backwards. Using a

I agree Dennis, and besides, the G-50-13 end that Tony cites has only 3 major ribs and is a drop-style end, so I don't know why he thinks it would work as a fixed-end requiring 4 major ribs. Tim

They should look heavier, they're 70-ton trucks (6 x 11" journals). The little UTLX tank car has only 30-ton trucks (4-1/2 x 8" journals). Those ore cars had short wheelbase trucks. Brian

The problem has to do with where the "normal" plane of the end sheet is after pressing. The Accurail gon end also looks superficially like one of those "bifurcated" ends (I hate that word...there must

Greetings all; In reply to my own posting, I have been seriously remiss in neglecting to mention two additional donors of door prizes for our NEFF RPM Meet. They are: The Big Little Railroad Shop in

Brian; Is it a flat kit? Are the doors like they used on the later X29 rebuilds? If so, you could scratch the inset side sills (it looks do-able), then mate the sides with the late ends, bash an O/H

I happen to have right here the ends for the Speedwitch SP gondola (because I'm building one of them), and they are perfect. I haven't checked my Sunshine gondola kits (unbuilt) but they may

Tony Yeah? Name one. I have a box of gondola ends, and none of them works. Tim

Tim O'Connor wrote: Um, Tim, it's not a different end, just turned around 180 degrees. You do of course need an end with BOTH SIDES corrugated, not one of the typical plastic kit ends with