Bill Schneider wrote: True enough, BIll, and I've done the same. One trick I learned from John Signor is to clean up and square up the art in Photoshop, very easy activities with the powerful

Thank you Bruce, I thought about that after I hit send. Naturally a heavy load would be placed on stripping and that in itself would be a deterent to skidding (steel to steel). Sorry, should have

A search for "making your own decals" will provide a good bit of useful info. KL

True enough Tony, but far better results can be gained by using Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw, both vector graphics programs. Without getting to far into the details for the group (I know you're

I missed that clinic. I'd like to see it. Tim O'

Tim O'Connor wrote: If you have a good proto photo, it's not that hard in Photoshop to create artwork for decals. I've been working on some for west coast oil company tank cars; already did

Hi Matt,    Custom brass imported the model several years ago in "O" Scale I wasn't  aware of one being done by Overland. Rich Yoder

Listers, Was curious if anyone could provide any insight into the later disposition of the 20K gallon Jones and Laughlin tank cars. As we all know, they spent nearly all their lives in captive

Tony LOL. Yeah right. I've got my eye open for Champ HB-178 which has this lettering. Tim O'Connor

Tim O'Connor wrote: Hey, Tim, do the artwork and get decals made, and I bet you could sell any you don't use to this group! <g> Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley,

Wow thats one of the reasons, Tim! Just have to have one! Sincerely, Mark Morgan

Richard, Thank you very much for this informaiton. I now have enough information to get myself in trouble. It is time to order a few additional modeling supplies and get this project off the

Al, Dennis, Thank you for the information. Dennis wrote: In modeling the 12000 series car I would be removing the roof from the Tichey car and it would not be hard to cut or sand the top side of the

Shay, I have several photos of these cars as rebuilt with steel side sheathing and 10' wide 1-1/2 corrugated doors, as well as one shot of a single door car. In all cases, the roofs are Climax

Dennis, Good catch.   Why else would the diagram sheet say Youngstown Steel Sides, 10 ga.  . . . .  kits?  Now to check photo's for extended side bracing under the skins at their bottom side

Many of these extremely heavy loads are welded to the decks of the cars (or the tie down devices are welded). Eventually I guess they figured holes in the deck could be used to make loops with cable

Robert Federle wrote: THere are numerous photos of pre-World War II cars with riveted decks, and no, the rivets are not flat heads, they are normal hemispherical heads. Guess the railroad

Really? This question peaked my interest because I've never seen a USRA rebuild that retained the original framing, so I looked in Shaver's Car Equipment of the C&O Railway. Turns out the ex-Hocking

Sorry Shay, I hate to say it, but you are getting two or three steel-sheathed series intermixed. The C&O 2000-2799 series 50-ton steel-sheathed box cars were converted at Raceland, Kentucky, in

Robert, While indeed a possibility, loads were often loaded onto wooden blocking and not directly onto the deck. However, you pose an interesting question as many decks on earlier riveted heavy