I built this model last year, and was also concerned by top heaviness from the thick roof casting. I set my drill press up to a fixed depth and drilled out most of the material with a 1/4" drill. I

Bob......Can't recall exact amounts but I used 1.5 to 2 oz of weight on the inside floor to bring up the car weight. ....It is not top heavy and I have had no problem running it in trains.......Jim

Bob: I have completed both Sunshine 58.1 and 58.6. I have no problem running them, all of my car get equipped with re-box 88 wheels. Paul C. Koehler _____ From: STMFC@...

John Golden wrote: " The problem is that this SAL round-roof box car has a huge, thick roof casting and the body did not assemble properly." Martin did the B&O M-27 versions with the Tatum roof also

The uScale softening solutions are quite mild. I use Champ solution or Walthers Solvaset to soften stubborn decals. I routinely use the Microscale liquid decal stuff (I forget the name) to either

I don't know about the Micro Mark stuff but the Microscale products I use are excellents. Marcelo Lordeiro

Does anyone have any experience with Micro Marks decal setting and restoring products. I am particularly interested in the decal film restoring solution as I have some old decals that are no longer

Mike, All, Thanks for all the great ideas on how to de-construct a resin model. The problem is that this SAL round-roof box car has a huge, thick roof casting and the body did not assemble properly.

I have never taken a whole model apart but I have successfully de bonded body joints I was unhappy with. I used acetone and a q-tip. Just keep soaking the q-tip and wiping the joint. It takes time

John, if you don't get any bites by StL RPM, bring it and I'll buy it. -- Allen Rueter StLouis MO

John, I've had good fortune using Uncure, a 30-120 second ACC debonder which was custom-labeled for the LHS. I kept the joint coated with Uncure using a Q-tip, then gently started working the parts

Group, The St. Louis RPM meeting sounds great. Are there any updates on the Rocky Mountain RPM meeting later this month in Denver? I am seeing no new information on the Denver area meet. Any new

-I haven't tried this myself but I'm led to believe ACC weakens in freezing temps so if you put the finished model in the freezer for a while it should be relatively easy to pry apart.

Brown, was this a gloss rating or a redness rating say over C&O Freight Car Brown of that era? Prince's Metalic Paint was a high end mineral red paint... from a 1883 ad in Painting and Painters'

John,            I have deconstructed a couple resin kits that needed more patience to get right. One thing i found is being able to "gently" tweak a

I disaseebled an F&C NH coach by droping a Lecia M3 on it. Unfortunitly I ended up with many more parts then the kit came with. Jim Fellows

John-- Some nail polish remover or acetone, perhaps? Be very careful using this stuff around any styrene details on the car, though. Steve Lucas.

Ben-- The Jan. 1953 ORER gives the dimensions of the BAR 9800-10399 series as 36' i.l., 8'6" i.w., 8'-1" i.h. Height is 12'-7" to top of running board. The CN 420000-series car modelled by the

Gentlemen, I have a Sunshine box car kit (Seaboard DD auto car) that did not go together well. I need to de-bond the ACC I used to fix the roof to the sides. Does anyone have any foolproof ideas on

First, thanks for the links to the P&WV. The six dome wine tank car made me remember a book. So I went down to the basement and dug it out. It is An American Railroad Portrait, by Daniel L. Frizzi Jr.