Tim, Maybe you can just strip the Future. The instructions on the bottle say that it can be removed with a solution of 1 cup ammonia and 1/4 cup Armstrong Floor Cleaner in 1/2 gallon cool water, then

Tim and Mont: I have made my share of mistakes with Future, and had some satisfying successes. In between those two outcomes, I've found you can repair a botched Future job by swabbing local

I've actually found that on this list questions, even putatively dumb ones, are well respected, for the most part. It's answers, or factual statements, that are subject to gunplay. So, there's a

Tony, I am considering the origin. Except for the phrase " Plain Keystone (black car) was applied starting in July 1956", which I took to be a reference to equpment not painted Freight Car Color -

Tony, a little slack please... this thread is so taut it's gonna snap any second.

you forgot Chief Bottle Washer ;-) or to paraphrase a Boston radio station... Homina homina homina homina homina...

Bill Schneider wrote: True. But consider the origin. Um, Bill, the thread was about box cars. If Mr. Navari did not know the distinction between box and HOPPER cars, that makes his

Ok Guys, let's tone it down a bit. This has gotten way off base. Bill - Welcome to the STMFC list. You're suppossed to sign your last name. Ben pointed that out. No doubt you will next time. No need

Dave (or anyone), Is the reason for using distilled water so that on drying it will not leave a whitish deposit of dissolved salts? Or is there another reason, such as the effect on the decals

Tim, Looks like you do not have anything to loose here so why not try a light media blast of the heavy area. The stipper jar will still be there if you don't like the results. Mont

BILL NAVARI wrote: Manufacturers are frequent offenders in this area, BIll, so this is a feeble excuse. And you gave no hint in your post that it wasn't your own knowledge. Read the

In a message dated 11/8/2007 4:00:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, timboconnor@... writes: don't understand why my message this MORNING did not get through on this subject. I think PRR

Bill: I think that you missed Ben's point. 1st when you joined this list the rules were spelled out that you need to include your full name with any post. Not everybody knows that Bill and

The current issue of Finescale Modeler has an insert on air-brushing of acrylic paints (but I will still stick with Floquil) and an article on the use of Future. In reading past articles in Finescale

I bought a model on Ebay that was well painted, but it looks like it got a Future "dip" -- the thing is just ridiculously shiny ALL OVER. So I'm afraid this one is headed for the stripper... Since

Rob I think Future is gettting to be pretty mainstream. I was firly sceptical at first but having hads some models completed fora few years with no sign of yellowing or other advers effects I have

Apologies to the group, this was not meant to invoke what his has. The point I was trying to make, perhaps incorrectly, was lost and the discussion has veered on an alternate tangent. The point

On the few occasions I have used Floquil for a whole paint job, I premix Crystal Cote (not Gloss) into the color. IMO this gives a smoother finish than with the Gloss. If you want a THIN glossy coat

I have used Testor's Gloss coat with good results. Whatever you use, the important thing is to get a light coat; you don't need much to decal properly. Use too much and you may get a yellowish

You know Ben Hom, or is it Ad-HOM-inem? Not everyone may be perfect like you. I got my infomation from the website of a major manufacturer of PRR products. Since the question was asked, I thought