I concur with Al Westerfield. For Rail Graphics decals, my favorites, used by Al and Martin Lofton of Sunshine use Solvaset full strength. I will lay the decal down on Solvaset and push it into

Mark - Over the years I've had plenty of practice applying decals in a hurry to meet ad deadlines. I find that letting the decal almost dry out completely and then using Solvaset full strength to one

Mark Pierce wrote: "My proposed strategy to complete the car is to (1) decal the two ends and flat-finish the completed side and ends, (2) single-layer decal the second side, and after a day apply a

Thanks for your advice, Ben. Still, I don't trust applying microset to an unprotected yet completely-applied decal in preparing for the second-level decal. I was fortunate the second-level decal was

The 'B'est & 'O'nly did not have any old fashion side door caboose in 1956. We had only had 989 total Cabooses down from 1,116 in 1950. We had 160 modern steel Bay-window types. plus 150 left over

Mark Pierce asked: "Regarding two-part decals as when one decal is to be applied on top of another such as a two-color, background-lettering, railroad herald: is it best to apply a clear coat on top

Jim read his email again, he did. Brian J Carlson P.E. Cheektowaga NY

I'm slow to respond to this as I haven't had time until now to examine the photos I have of USRA cars. But it's an interesting question, and the answer seems to be that all of the USRA freight cars

Hi........You need to use a decal set!...best Jim williams

I did 50+ N Scale cars using Speedwitch Media two color SP heralds with Micro-Set and Micro-Sol and never had that problem. I may have waited 24 hours between applications but would not have

Mark Pierce wrote: . . . After 12 hours, I applied the white Southern Pacific Lines lettering. The black circle then lifted, so I couldn't make adjustments between the two decals. Fortunately, there

Regarding two-part decals as when one decal is to be applied on top of another such as a two-color, background-lettering, railroad herald: is it best to apply a clear coat on top of the first decals

This is fascinating info - does anyone out there have similar information for the 50's and 60's? Viv Brice, an SPF from 'down under' _____ From: STMFC@...

Jeff Aley wrote: Yes, it is. Rats! That's one I had! Shouldn't they be doing ones I DON'T have? Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA

Apparently not all are available for d/l, but the 1903 is: http://books.google.com/books?id=nnwkAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=editions:088yLnuwLDw6Gl_0mX&as_brr=1 Regards, -Jeff to -- Jeff

The 1898 Car Builders Dictionary was a rework of the 1895 dictionary with new ads. The first three editions of the dictionary were all republished this way, so the 1879 and 1881 edition are the same

While I'm at it I guess I should ask: what size is the herald? Jerry Glow

I'm finallly getting around to doing my car from 2 years ago and realized I don't have the decals. I'm in the process of doing artwork so I can print them on the ALPS or give it to Oddballs so more

Thanks for pointing out the Google books archive. I found quite a few interesting items by searching on "Railway Age" including this 1922 compilation on the railway business as it was then -- lots of

Thanks, Jack. I found it in a second and downloaded it--807 pages! John Golden Bloomington, IN download. top of the edition the upper version in