Larry, Pin or hole, either way. A metal pin added by the modeler, while another step, would be "stronger". We are playing here, and sometimes toys break! The +/- 1/16th is a good distance, I think.

Schuyler Larrabee wrote: Yup. I think that's how they built the pyramids <g>. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705

Jerry The photo of 170494 shown in Bulletin #35 is also shown more clearly (still B&W) in the Burlington Route H. S. Data Sheet on 70 ton hoppers. The text states that they were equipped with roller

Well, that'd be OK, I guess, but it's one more thing that has to be done when you're building the model. Actually, molded pins like this work very well, as they provide surfaces that will

Larry, A plastic pin seems to work just fine for the brake shaft step in the Cal Scale K brake set. The pin is wide at the top but tapers to a point. Mike Farina

I am just happy someone is tooling a part. Your idea would work. It is similar to what I have don't to reinforce other plastic details. My only suggestion is to make the hole smaller 0.01 or 0.015

Suggestion: I do not furnish the pin but put a .020" hole in it and you can cut some brass or steel wire to use. I do not think a plastic molded would work. No strength. Thank you Larry Jackman Boca

Haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but the Feb 07 RMC has an ad for BLMA Models, and they have .008 drop and straight grabs. Brian J Carlson P.E. Cheektowaga NY

I honestly don't care what material, but please give us a pin to attach the thing to the carbody! Forget the hose, let the modeler choose which mfrs part they want to use. My $.096 Thanks, Joe

to the Larry, what other molds did you have made? I thought you in O scale. Ed

I had not thought about the idea of a mounting pin, but I like it. It should be maybe 3/32" to 1/8" long, which is kind of long, but it's much easier to cut something shorter than to cut it

OK tell me about the pin.I have a sample of this part and some prototype photos. Is the pin to be plastic or metal. I would like to do this in one shot for the mold maker. If I have to go back into

Joe & Company... As long as we are giving personal opinions... I concur with the mounting post suggestion. Another choice would be a longer mounting part on the bracket that we can cut to required

Tony, Now that the Cocoa meeting didn't happen, I am at a loss as to how to proceed. Lots of data done independently, but now what? I was hoping for a spirited discussion to get a direction and

To be honest, I'd rather see white metal than brass. It's much easier to shape and make the air hose droop right. And It's generally almost a durable as brass. Again, a personal opinion. Dan

Schuyler Larrabee wrote: Interesting picture of Erie Yards in Weehawken

She's right, it's shall, but you should shell out to get this done, so the rest of us can shell out cash in your direction. I'd prefer brass, like Mont. But preferably, both, plastic and brass

Miss spelled word Shell should have been shall. Or so my wife says Thank you Larry Jackman Boca Raton FL ljack70117@... I was born with nothing and I have most of it left

Gentlemen The mold is being cut as I write this for an injection molded part. They can be converted to brass by the investment casting process. I have one question for all of you who are writing to

Brian and others, This has been a concern of mine for some time. I know Denny Anspach has explored this with several manufacturers to no avail. Denny, jump in here any time. I believe