Clark, Thanks for your feedback on Cocoa Beach (and our #2 rating!) I would like to point out that many of the clinics were (and will be) presented twice. We have so many topics that I suspect you

OK, I'll add another variant. I mount the trucks and coupler box and couplers early in the process to ensure proper height and placement - and then remove the couplers as others do so I can finish

I was fortunate enough to be able to attend four RPM meets this year. I heard rumors of a Milwaukee meet this coming April, so thought I'd offer my thoughts on the meets I attended. Hopefully Mr. B

Guyz, A little trick I've used for years---- apply a drop of Wahl oil to the coupler's moving parts. This keeps the paint from sticking, and usually has the coupler working fine for a long

The ones for tank models were black, but they were meant to be painted over. KL

That¹s the same active ingredient in antifreeze! -- Thanks! Brian Ehni From: Rob Manley <robev1630@...> Reply-To: <STMFC@...> Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 21:03:59 -0600 To:

Doesn¹t Clover House make dry transfer rivet decals? But what color would you need for the proper effect? Wouldn't it change from base color to color? -- Thanks! Brian Ehni From: Kurt Laughlin

I use binder head screws for the same reason. They are a little thinner than pan head, and certainly thinner than standard round head. -- Thanks! Brian Ehni From: Jim Williams

There was a company that made dry transfer rivets and weld lines for 1/35 tanks. Although they were thicker than normal dry transfer characters they were still kinda thin for 1/35 so they didn't work

Hi all......When building a Sunshine resin or one of the other resin kits, I glue the major portion of the couupler pocket, then drill and tap a 256 thread and screw the coupler box top in place. I

couplers to keep their operation from being fouled by paint. When in the assembly process do most of you install the couplers? I add both early during the assembly so I get the truck and

Hello guys, Thanks for all the ideas and tips on attaching styrene rivet battens on a model. There were several ideas worth a try. I hope to be able to report back with some results once I gather

I ran into this a while back when fitting Reboxx wheel sets to my TMW Dalman trucks. Interestingly I was always told that the Intermountain semiscale axles were approx. 1.020". I tried fitting this

After buying some of the new Tahoe Model Works Dalman trucks from Andy Carlson at Naperville, I took one over to the to the REBOXX display and asked him to help me with the correct wheelsets. He

Clark: I add the draft gear (pockets) during construction and then stuff them with tissue until I am finished with everything including weathering. I then add the couplers at the end. Regards, Ted

Thanks very much, Ben! Nice side-by-side; very informative. I see that not only would you have to lengthen the door tracks, but remove the door stops, relocate, and patch the remains. It looks like

Elden Gatwood asked: "Would the side sills tabs and ends furnished with the RC car be good to go?" Yes, with the exception of "tab" under the door opening, which needs to be lengthened to the right

What is the source of the rivet strips? Tom ________________________________

I've just been looking at the Car Shop "New Haven Steel" kit I recently bought, and much as I like to work with brass, I was remembering how long it took me to finish one of their kits when I was in

This discussion of solvent and small rivet srips triggered a question that's been stirring in my mind for some time. Has anyone tried to take advantage of the solvent dissolve effect to apply a