There have been many great articles and posts on distressing and finishing plastic flat cat decks. I would think that the same techniques would apply to finishing laser cut wood decking. I did not,

Photo: FGEX 11158 Wreck (1955) A photo from the Temple University Archives: https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/67201/rec/2 Click on the arrows and scroll to

One other thing…If you go with the vacuum sander attachment be sure your vacuum has a bag or filter that is specifically designed for drywall dust. Drywall dust is extremely fine and will go right

As you stated the problem that you may encounter will be the large difference in both thermal and hygroscopic expansion rates between the styrene and the joint compound. As for dust, I’ve used one

Doug, you are entirely correct. Shouldn’t make posts that late at night, I guess. Apologies. Schuyler

Golly, Schuyler! You are right, I would not have noticed that, you have some sharp brain cells going on there! See the awesome scene at the link below...

That was my experience with baking soda as well, except that I was building RC model airplanes then and balsa is even softer than styrene. Nelson Moyer

The attached picture shows the butt joint in the center with faint shadows on either side of the splice plate. Those shadows are the troughs. They aren’t very deep, and you can feel them better than

 Hi Lester and List Members, Thanks Lester for the quite comprehensive writeup. Lester wrote: "Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA" I did this once,

Dennis, That sounds easy enough. I’ll give the dry wall compound a try. I used in on the joints on my Masonite branchline backdrop, and it hasn’t cracked in the three year’s it’s been in

Not an uncommon occurrence in those track conditions. Especially if they are using single point switches. Scott McDonald

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote: I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall

A class HTj, USRA, a HTh, and an HTO class of two bay hoppers

My choice is Bondo--one part (red) in a tube. Does a great job and last for years in the tube. Ed Mims

It sounds to me like a "Drywall Repair " approach may provide a simpler solution. Some spray adhesive, A roll of 'fast freddie'-

You’re right to question it - I hadn’t appreciated the size of the gap your are dealing with. Another approach to consider: add laminations of thin sheet styrene into the 2” trough to fill

Actually the tankcars are marked Jacob E Decker JEDX 50-73, leased from North American Car Co. Doug Harding www.iowacentralrr.org

Interesting tank car off to the left, also marked “Hygrade.” Schuyler

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move. Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To