Currently working on a boxcar project involving Western Maryland #4001-4050 series boxcar (postwar AAR, R-3-4 end, blt 7/51). My question -- when built, were the ends and/or roof of

Gary, Diamond Match also had a major plant at Red Bluff. Both plants were switched by 4-wheel GE diesels. I don't know about matches, but I think both plants were involved in dimensional lumber. When

Forgot the photo Thanks! -- Brian Ehni From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "BRIAN PAUL EHNI via groups.io" <bpehni@...> Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> Date: Saturday, July

Diagrams yes. Engineering drawings no. For those you need to contact the NKPHTS. Ray Breyer Elgin, IL

Back in the early 90’s, I went looking at an electronics parts house in Nashville for usable stuff. One bin was 2-56 x ¼” binder head screws. $1.00/pound. I still have a couple of pounds

Dan, Yes, these are blackened steel but in S scale they're just that much higher from the uncoupling magnets than in HO so I haven't seen any issues with that. I'm using the small 1/8" diameter

Great place to spend hours noodling around for surplus aircraft grade you name it. Lived just around the corner. Haven't been in that store for years. Was Joe Factors then. Left over store from

my recollection is that NKP freight car diagrams used to be available on the internet under the umbrella "alphabet route"

I've changed the subject line since I'm changing the subject. Recently I have used rattle-can Scalecoat II on several resin freight car models, without a primer. Adhesion isn't wonderful, but it

Scott, I use their surfacer but often just grab a can of One of their light grays. Seems to work fine, Tony Thompson

Hi; already we have had the the universal opinion of yes for the use of primer on resin before a Tru-Color coat. Decades ago, I tried my 1st (and last) attempt to paint AccuPaint on an un-primered

I keep both the Tamiya red oxide and light grey primer handy and use before any rolling stock painting. I have a bin of Tr-Color on hand but these days use it and PBL Star Brand for matching to

Tony Thompson wrote: Tony, Which Tamiya primer do you prefer to use? Scott Seders

ABSOLUTELY! I had a huge failure with Tru-color paint on a custom project that wound up costing me a lot of money. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is a great choice, the tru-color primer is not worth

Tim Alund wrote: You must! The Tru-Color will not adhere to resin at all. Prime any way you like (I prefer Tamiya rattle cans). Tony Thompson tony@...

Tim Definitely I us a rattle can of fine car primer Trucolor will not stick to resin without a good primer otherwise it’s good paint. Paul Doggett. England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Yes, in my humble opinion Fenton -- Fenton Wells 250 Frye Rd Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-8106 srrfan1401@...

Group, Question for you all. I’m painting a Yarmouth resin car and going to be using Tru Color paints. This is my first time using Tru Color on a train car. Would you guys recommend priming the car

I’ve been using Dupli-Color grey primer on all of my kits and patterns for the past several years because it covers well and dries quickly. However, because the nozzle is not designed for tight

Hmm, those are pretty cool. Schuyler