How many of you guys have subjected your models to a significant temperature change? This is the acid test of CA bonds due to the differential expansion and contraction of materials, i.e. metal and

Jeff, I have not tried using the PolyZap on Delrin, wheels, or truck sideframes. Nor would I try using it on Accurail's new scale draft gear... But I have used it to glue Kadee brakewheels into

Dave Soderblom asked: product appears to have the potential to solve some long-standing and vexing problems in car construction (e.g., attaching etched running boards, small metal parts subject to

Gize, Just stumbled across an outfit that's selling the ERTL flatcars at a heavy discount. Road names are: Missouri Pacific Canadian National Boston & Maine Atlantic Coast Line I know these have

I tried some PolyZap. The Micromark ad claims that it can be used to glue Delrin and other acetal plastics. It's true, it can be USED, but that doesn't mean you'll get good results! As an

timoconnor@... writes: Tim, can you elaborate somewhat on this? Todd Horton

I received a request from Ron Goldfeder of the Museum of Transportation regarding the Wagner Brewery of Granite City, Illinois (in business from 1904-1940). Reportedly, this company received

Gentlemen, I saw the ad in the latest RMJ and on IMR's site for these hoppers. they sure look nice. What road names would be applicable other than NYC? Jerry Michels

David, I am on my second or third bottle of the stuff. It is everything that Mike Rose says about it and moore. It is a little thicker than CA but that has never been a problem for me. I have found

I recently used a new Zap product called PolyZap. It also is thicker than the regular thin Zap but it seems to work very nicely on plastic and even metal. I'm sure it's not as good as Cyanopoxy but it

David, I use Cyanopoxy and it's as advertised. It is a little thicker than normal ACC/super glue but not much. I have used it on "slippery" plastic and it works as stated. My last use on

Anyone have personal experience with Cyanopoxy they'd like to share? This product appears to have the potential to solve some long-standing and vexing problems in car construction (e.g., attaching

cripete wrote:

Historical I bought the latest issue there last Saturday and I'd guess they'd stll have some left. Dave Nelson

Some other hobby shops that stock multiple historical society magazines: Des Plaines Hobbies, Des Plaines IL The Hobby Gallery, Wolcott CT Tucker's Hobbies, Warren MA Tim O'Connor

purchase them at a price less than that charged by Walters; $2.29 for two in > a package. Thank you, Jay Bingham By now Jay you have probably figured out there is no solution other than buying

Hello, The Challenger NP war emergency boxcar just arrived in my shop today. Ted Rails Unlimited Ted Schnepf 126 Will Scarlet Elgin, Ill 60120 847-697-5353 or

See my last post on this Thank you Larry Jackman Jon Miller wrote:

My Opinion: As taught in the votech school and in the machine shops. 1) Chuck the drill bit as close to the flutes as possible. But never on the flutes. And you should use Stub length if you can find

Resin will not melt and use some wax on the bit in plastic. I do not have the melt problem in plastic. If you can find drills ground for aluminum instead of steel, you will not have as much heat but