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Re: decals on wood
Ralph
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I just brush it on, out of the can. The specific kind I use: Water base, "Oil Modified" polyurethane, satin finish. It cleans up with water. Tim On 1/6/2019 3:48 PM, Ralph W. Brown
wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: Twin Star Cars
Ross' website did lapse and hasn't been replaced, as of
yet. You can contact Ross directly at
Steve Hile From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Richard Townsend via Groups.Io Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2019 2:57 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] Twin Star Cars Is Twin
Star Cars still in business? It's Ross Dando's company and the manufacturer of
shock absorbers for the uncommon Chrysler trucks used on some PFE reefers and
other cars. Their web address takes me to a flashing melange of Asian writing.
Richard
Townsend
Lincoln
City, OR
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Re: Poultry Car Dimensions
Tim Meyer
Thanks Doug
Tim Meyer |
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Re: decals on wood
Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
By serendipity, I have had considerable experience with decals on wood, and the bottom essential before decal-ling is to fill the wood grain with paint, varnish, lacquer, or sanding sealer to the point that the surface can be lightly sanded to be smooth and “glossy”. Then, have at it. Decals have a truly difficult time settling into unfilled grain, no amount of applications of Walthers’ SolvaSet notwithstanding.
I have found that the woods commonly used for laser kits seem to have more open grain than the usual basswood. I am currently in the process of finishing up several wood car kits so the subject is a hot one,.I will attach below a photo of a recent decal application on wood. Ignore that it is a passenger car, but the point’s the same! Denny Denny S. Anspach, MD 307 Stanton Road Quarryville, PA 17566 |
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Twin Star Cars
Richard Townsend
Is Twin Star Cars still in business? It's Ross Dando's company and the manufacturer of shock absorbers for the uncommon Chrysler trucks used on some PFE reefers and other cars. Their web address takes me to a flashing melange of Asian writing.
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR
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Re: decals on wood
Ralph W. Brown
Hi Tim,
Do you thin the polyurethane? If so, how much?
Thanks,
Ralph
Brown
Portland, Maine PRRT&HS No. 3966 NMRA No. L2532 rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com From: Tim
O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 2:40 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] decals on wood Bruce I seal real wood with Minwax polyurethane. It turns wood into "virtual styrene". :-) And of course it can be painted over. Tim O'Connor On 1/6/2019 2:36 PM, Bruce Smith wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: decals on wood
Ralph W. Brown
Hi Bruce,
It has been quite some time since I last applied decal to a car, but I had
no problems with either decals or dry transfers.
The decal were Champ or perhaps Walthers, and the dry transfers were from
Clover House.
In at least one case, I applied dry transfers to a Central Valley car that
came with pre-panted side and end pieces.
Most car were spray painted with Floquil or in a few cases Scalecoat (I),
using a now long gone Badger single action air brush and cans of Propel (what a
pain). At some point I started using Scalecoat sanding sealer prior to
assembly and painting, not necessarily in that order. I used a setting
solution on decals, Solvaset if memory serves. I later began using a flat
finish over everything, probably also Floquil, but not initially. Dullcote
was not yet in my quiver at the time.
Pax,
Ralph
Brown
Portland, Maine PRRT&HS No. 3966 NMRA No. L2532 rbrown51[at]maine[dot]rr[dot]com From: Bruce
Smith
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 2:36 PM
To: stmfc
Subject: [RealSTMFC] decals on wood Folks,
I could use some help. I have been working on an ABC USRA gondola with an
undec IM kit (in HO) and I'm getting near the end. I have the decals for this
car from the ACl/SBD/SCL HS. Most of the lettering goes on the wood sides and as
many of you know, this kit has actual wood sides. I have painted these black
with Model Master enamel, sanded them, and painted on a a second coat. The paint
is flat and so my plan is to give a third coat with Future and proceed to decal.
My question is, are 3 coats (2 paint, 1 future) good enough to seal the wood and
get good decal performance, or do I need more coats of paint to seal
first?
Regards Bruce Bruce Smith Auburn, AL |
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Re: decals on wood
Nelson Moyer
Bruce,
I used a product from the local hobby shop that was intended for sealing pinewood derby cars to fill and seal a CB&Q BA-19 economy baggage car scratchbuilt using Northeastern Lumber Co. floor, sides, and milled roof. The product is Pine Pro Competetion Components Sanding Sealer. It’s most likely an acrylic product, because it’s water-based and non-toxic. I bought a 2 oz. bottle for $4.29, but that was around eight years ago. I applied several coats, sanding lightly between coats until I was happy with the finish. It won’t fill deep wood grain, but it works well on smooth pine.
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io]
On Behalf Of Bruce Smith
Folks,
I could use some help. I have been working on an ABC USRA gondola with an undec IM kit (in HO) and I'm getting near the end. I have the decals for this car from the ACl/SBD/SCL HS. Most of the lettering goes on the wood sides and as many of you know, this kit has actual wood sides. I have painted these black with Model Master enamel, sanded them, and painted on a a second coat. The paint is flat and so my plan is to give a third coat with Future and proceed to decal. My question is, are 3 coats (2 paint, 1 future) good enough to seal the wood and get good decal performance, or do I need more coats of paint to seal first?
Regards Bruce Bruce Smith Auburn, AL |
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Re: Rare M&StL box car footage
Even not growing up there I can see why you model it Clark, thanks for sharing. Fenton On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 12:55 PM gtws00 via Groups.Io <gtws00=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Great short film.
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Re: decals on wood
Bruce
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Show quoted text
I seal real wood with Minwax polyurethane. It turns wood into "virtual styrene". :-) And of course it can be painted over. Tim O'Connor On 1/6/2019 2:36 PM, Bruce Smith wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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decals on wood
Folks,
I could use some help. I have been working on an ABC USRA gondola with an undec IM kit (in HO) and I'm getting near the end. I have the decals for this car from the ACl/SBD/SCL HS. Most of the lettering goes on the wood sides and as many of you know, this
kit has actual wood sides. I have painted these black with Model Master enamel, sanded them, and painted on a a second coat. The paint is flat and so my plan is to give a third coat with Future and proceed to decal. My question is, are 3 coats (2 paint, 1
future) good enough to seal the wood and get good decal performance, or do I need more coats of paint to seal first?
Regards Bruce Bruce Smith Auburn, AL |
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Re: Model Train Magazine Index web site
The problem with the index is that it uses 50 year old technology, and the world has moved on. Here's what we need - every magazine and model railroad book ever published put into readable (OCR) PDF file format and then INDEXED using Google indexing software. I run Google Desktop (the final version before it was discontinued) on my PC and it indexes every PDF file, every photo, every text and every email that's been stored on my successive computers for the past 25 years. I can search them all in 5 seconds or less. Unfortunately, the above won't happen until the copyrights have all expired - 75 years after publication. So right now we're only up to 1944... Tim O'Connor On 1/6/2019 10:34 AM, Nelson Moyer
wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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NEB&W (RPI) layout being MOVED to ???
Message forwarded from John Nehrich The RPI club layout is one of the finest layouts in America. I hope this goes well and doesn't become a tragedy. I've operated regularly on the layout for several years and I've been visiting it for almost 30 years, and it has just gotten better and better over time. And it had regular participation of RPI students too. The twice yearly operating sessions attracted at least 40 people at a time including many RPI alumni. Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts ============================================ Hi, I'm trying to send out this info to all our active club members and supporters but in my rush, I'm sure I'm overlooking many - please spread the word and for anyone who hears about this only secondhand, I sincerely apologize. We have just gotten word that shortly, perhaps a few weeks, a professional mover is going to come in and crate up sections of the layout, along with everything else, and move them out of Davison. These will either be stored in a warehouse or if we are lucky, moved to a new permanent home. The school wants to rehab Davison over the summer with all new plumbing, etc., but wants the layout now. At first when they were talking about this, they were figuring they would totally box in the layout to protect it from swinging pipes around, but they would have to remove the backdrop and build us a whole new one. On reconsideration, they figured it would be better to move us instead. So where? Barb Nelson, who used to work at RPI in space allocation, is now the Executive Director of TAP Inc. (Troy Architectural Program) and wants very much for us to move to some place where the layout can readily be seen by the public. She is very sympathetic to our needs and attuned to the entire downtown building boom. She thinks there may be some appropriate space downtown opening up. Many developers are having a hard time filling their first floor with retailers, and she sees the layout as generating a lot of foot traffic. We don’t have anything definite yet. If it does, our role might change, whether we stay a part of RPI, be a collaboration with say the county historical society, become totally independent, or who knows what. We know one important consideration no matter what would be to ensure this is a permanent home. Or we have been talking about a new building, a simple (and thus cheap) steel shell building on a concrete pad floor somewhere on RPI property. For years and years, we have looked at moving to an existing location in an unused space, but we take up far more room than people think. And if we were to move into J Building or Winslow, even if we fit – we don’t – it would cost so much to remove walls, etc. But now we are talking about a prime location, not a spare attic or unused basement. Please spread the word to EVERYONE you can think of. Massive amounts of publicity are needed, and soon, both word-of-mouth and professional media. In this way, we may reach some wealthy benefactor, or even just convince the school the importance of not letting us wither away in storage. We will be looking into some type of go-fund-me campaign, hopefully in conjunction say with a local historical group. (We probably can’t do it under RPI without stepping on some toes). The contract to move us has yet to be signed, but they are aiming for a few weeks. Then we will know the timetable but it likely to be soon after. Once we have a definite date, we are hopeful of holding one last operating session. If you know of individuals who need to see the layout, I can set up an individual tour - it may be now or never. - John Nehrich -- Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: Rare M&StL box car footage
gtws00
Great short film.
Thanks for sharing George Toman |
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Re: Rare M&StL box car footage
Bill Welch
Thank you for sharing this Clark. Looks like a set of Detail West 4/4 Dreadnaught ends would be an ideal fit. Wonder it Andrew would be interested in doing these as a kit. I could furnish him the ends I think if he will. Nice variation.
Bill Welch |
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Re: Model Train Magazine Index web site
Nelson Moyer
I tried a couple of searches for articles I know were published in Mainline Modeler, and the search hit on some key words but not others. Stock cars gave results, but CB&Q came up empty. On one of the hits, there were five pages of articles, but only the first page worked. Clicking NEXT brought up an error page. Pretty clunky index search functions! I wonder if the programmer actually tried the use this index to see if it worked.
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io]
On Behalf Of StephenK
Try this: |
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Re: Rare M&StL box car footage
Paul Doggett
Clark
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An excellent little film. Paul Doggett
On 6 Jan 2019, at 15:25, Clark Propst <cepropst@q.com> wrote:
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Rare M&StL box car footage
Clark Propst
Above is a link to a short video sent to me by Jason Klocke. I’ve built a couple models of the M&StL 52000 series box cars before using Ertl models with DW ends having only a photo snow covered car shot from an odd angle as a guide. Gene Green sent me the AFE file on them and some ‘detail’ photos he took of a car that survived as a shed somewhere. These cars were built in 42 on xCNW 16000 series reefer underframes with a carbody built like USRA DS cars with Dreadnaught ends. I’ve always wondered if these cars had fishbelly underframes and by the looks of it they did. Happy me. Now I want to get some Westerfield USRA flat kits to build some more ; ))
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa |
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Re: Model Train Magazine Index web site
It works for me, but in a kind of hit or miss fashion.
If I hit this screen, I use my browser Back function to try again. It can
be frustrating.
Steve Hile From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of robertb@... Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 11:04 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: [RealSTMFC] Model Train Magazine Index web site Does anyone know if the Model Train Magazine Index web site that was on the Kalmbach site is still working ? I keep getting this message. Regards, Robert Bogie |
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Re: Model Train Magazine Index web site
StephenK
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