Date   

Roommate wanted for Cocoa

Jared Harper
 

Anyone want to share a room at Cocoa Beach?  I have a reservation.

Jared Harper
706-543-8821


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Ed
 

Thanks guys. I contacted Kadee and they provided the same info.  I have ordered my replacement coupler assemblies.

Ed Robinson


Re: 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

Eric Hansmann
 

The October 1926 ORER lists 500 of these M&O automobile boxcars in the 46000-46499 series. These were the only 40-foot automobile boxcars on the M&O at that time. They had 53 more XA cars listed but they were 36-foot interior length cars.

 

Except for five furniture cars just over 45-feet IL, the rest of the 1926 M&O boxcar and ventilated boxcar fleet was all 36-footers.

 

 

Eric Hansmann

Murfreesboro, TN

 

 

 


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of O Fenton Wells
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 1:34 PM
To: main@realstmfc.groups.io
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

 

Not sure if the 40 footers had multiple ends.  I'll check what info I have. 

Don't know the answer to your last question regarding radial roofs.  Southern (which controlled the M&O) also had the 40' SU cars and they started out the same as the M&O cars as door and one half auto cars.  Later the half doors were removed and the cars became 40' SU cars in effect.  I also would like to do one but most were gone by 1953, my era.  And I suspect that most that were left were in yard storage in the early fifties.

Fenton

 

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 2:07 PM Brent Greer <studegator@...> wrote:

Thanks Fenton, my thought is to stretch a Westerfield SU kit into one of these auto cars.  My concern was that in many cases the auto versions were also built taller.  Your info confirms that I should be able to use the Westerfield T-braced ends to make one.

Did any of these auto cars also have any of the Hutchins or Murphy ends that were used on SU boxcars?

And to add one more question to my barrage, I have a side view as built photo of SRY 145432 with the radial roof, but no view of the ends.  What ends did the radical rooted cars have?

Brent

________________________________
Dr. J. Brent Greer

_._,_._,_


Re: 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

O Fenton Wells
 

Not sure if the 40 footers had multiple ends.  I'll check what info I have. 
Don't know the answer to your last question regarding radial roofs.  Southern (which controlled the M&O) also had the 40' SU cars and they started out the same as the M&O cars as door and one half auto cars.  Later the half doors were removed and the cars became 40' SU cars in effect.  I also would like to do one but most were gone by 1953, my era.  And I suspect that most that were left were in yard storage in the early fifties.
Fenton


On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 2:07 PM Brent Greer <studegator@...> wrote:
Thanks Fenton, my thought is to stretch a Westerfield SU kit into one of these auto cars.  My concern was that in many cases the auto versions were also built taller.  Your info confirms that I should be able to use the Westerfield T-braced ends to make one.

Did any of these auto cars also have any of the Hutchins or Murphy ends that were used on SU boxcars?

And to add one more question to my barrage, I have a side view as built photo of SRY 145432 with the radial roof, but no view of the ends.  What ends did the radical rooted cars have?

Brent

________________________________
Dr. J. Brent Greer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

Brent Greer
 

Thanks Fenton, my thought is to stretch a Westerfield SU kit into one of these auto cars.  My concern was that in many cases the auto versions were also built taller.  Your info confirms that I should be able to use the Westerfield T-braced ends to make one.

Did any of these auto cars also have any of the Hutchins or Murphy ends that were used on SU boxcars?

And to add one more question to my barrage, I have a side view as built photo of SRY 145432 with the radial roof, but no view of the ends.  What ends did the radical rooted cars have?

Brent

________________________________
Dr. J. Brent Greer


Re: 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

O Fenton Wells
 

What height is that?  IH or to the eves?  SU were 8'-3" IH and 12'-5" to the eves
Fenton

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 11:25 AM Brent Greer <studegator@...> wrote:
The car data shows that the exterior height of these autocars was 12'-4.5"   What was the height of the 36' SU boxcars?

Brent


Dr. J. Brent Greer



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: 1926 M&O "T Brace" end Auto Car from Barringer collection.

Brent Greer
 

The car data shows that the exterior height of these autocars was 12'-4.5"   What was the height of the 36' SU boxcars?

Brent


Dr. J. Brent Greer


Re: US Navy Box Car

Ken Adams
 

Dennis, 

That actually makes sense. I dug out the Prospector Vol. 17 Nbr. 2 article with the DRGW 1926 rebuild drawings. It is plainly marked as a 6' 0" opening.  A 3" overhang on each side of the door would seem logical. 

Re-reading the article I remember I also reduced the height of the car by scraping and sanding a scale 2 inches off the bottom and changed the height of the truck bolster ends. The end sill channels used a piece of Evergreen U channel trimmed down. Really simple modifications. Based on my photo of the car in the Western Railway Museum I sliced off the bottom of a Tichy upper ratchet level casting to match the prototype. The car still had Carmer levers as restored by the WRM. I have not tried to get the etched Yarmouth Model Works levers. Maybe if I want to revisit this car or do the other car. 

I wish I had a need for more of these cars as they are fun to build and modify. Unfortunately none of the other Accurail HO cars fit into the operating requirements I use to focus what I build or bash these days. 

Ken Adams


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Rossiter, Mark W <Mark.Rossiter@...>
 

Ed, it is way easier to just order the Kadee scale head coupler assembly for their PS-1 cars.  A little more costly, but a lot less hassle.  https://kadee.com/htmbord/page2100.htm

 

Mark Rossiter

 

 


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Brian Carlson
 

You need to order the replacement assembly’s from Kadee. They come pre assembled. You replace the whole assembly. Contact them directly. 

The coupler in the PS-1 is like the 78 if memory serves. It was discontinued years ago.  The 78 is the scale head version. 

I usually buy scale coupler assembly’s at a time.  I have another dozen or so cars to convert.  

Of course it’s easier now obviously since the cars come with scale heads

Brian J. Carlson 

On Jan 1, 2019, at 4:44 PM, Ed <lehighman@...> wrote:

Brian,

Got the old coupler box out but I note that it is not a standard shank coupler. What did you use as a replacement coupler.

Ed Robinson


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Bill Keene
 

Ed.

Years ago I purchased a couple of Kadee PS-1 box cars.  A few years later I decided to convert to Sergent couplers. The “How does one do this?” question came up. As I had recently purchased a few under PS-1 kits I now had the instructions available for research. I believe that Kadee has these available for download on their web site. Just a wee bit of reverse engineering and the “how to” became apparent. The coupler box and steps are  one piece that is a snap fit into the frame and car body. 

As for the odd post or mounting pin, I took a very simple and not very elegant approach. I either filed down the post or carved it down to a size — do not remember which at this remove — that would accept the Sergent mounting hole. Once reassembled all has worked will.

I now have almost two handfuls of Kadee PS-1s to convert once I order more couplers from Frank.

Cheers & Happy Modeling,
Bill Keene
Irvine, CA



On Dec 30, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Ed <lehighman@...> wrote:

I picked up a couple of KADEE undec PS-1s and in the process of detailing them I find that I cannot remove the coupler boxes so I can swap out the #5 couplers with scale couplers. Anyone have experience removing the boxes without damage to the car?

Ed Robinson


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Ed
 

Brian,

Got the old coupler box out but I note that it is not a standard shank coupler. What did you use as a replacement coupler.

Ed Robinson


Re: US Navy Box Car

Dennis Storzek <destorzek@...>
 

On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 11:42 AM, Ken Adams wrote:
I understand the Accurail version's doors represent 6'6" doors whereas the original has 6' doors according to the spec sheet the WRM has.
Freight car doors are usually called out by the size of their OPENING, as that is all the shipper cares about. The door itself must be wider than the opening to cover the edges, provide space for the spark shield, etc. The NYC car drawings the Accurail kit follows show a 6'-0" opening, but a door a bit over 6'-6" wide, as modeled.

Dennis Storzek


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Brian Carlson
 

It’s actually not that bad. They made it so their cars don’t need any glue to be assembled

Brian J. Carlson 

On Jan 1, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Ed <lehighman@...> wrote:

Wow. They sure tried hard to make this impossible!

Thanks, Brian

Ed Robinson


Re: KADEE PS-1 Couplers

Ed
 

Wow. They sure tried hard to make this impossible!

Thanks, Brian

Ed Robinson


Re: US Navy Box Car

Ken Adams
 

John

I wish I did have the US Navy paint scheme for 1944-48. I have tried a lot of google searching with no result. The 1948 on scheme looks like an "asset tag" rather than a AAR car number.  As the cars were not used in interchange, and were US government property I would guess the AAR rules did not apply. 

The Clover house transfers appear to be formatted for the specific set of cars donated to the Western Railway museum.  I found a picture of car 61-00200, the other ex-Rio Grande car, as it was delivered to the Rio Vista property in "Navy Whites" on their site along with pictures of 66383.  My somewhat jiggly phone camera pics taken at the WRM in their car barn can be found at my rarely used blog https://srandsp.blogspot.com/. The 2017 Prospector article is extremely good if you want to modify the Accurail box car as it ran on the Rio Grande  after a 1926 rebuilding. Westerfield is considering  more accurate Rio Grande versions in resin. I understand the Accurail version's doors represent 6'6" doors whereas the original has 6' doors according to the spec sheet the WRM has. I did not measure the car as I was surprised I was shown the car privately by an enthusiastic museum volunteer who's name I unfortunately did not note in writing and cannot now recall or thank in my messages and blog.

I did not "play with the big boys" and replace the end grab irons with wire, add Carmer brake levers or add full brake rigging. I did build a new roof walk from strip styrene.  After I start a project and get through the initial steps I tend to get lazy. I have at least one more Accurail undecorated 14xx series box car on hand and may try this again. I would need to convert the transfers to decals as I do not have much luck with Clover House transfers. Others may get them to work fine. On the English side of my modeling I have used HMRS (Historical Model Railway Society) pressfix transfers with excellent results for many years. 


Re: Rock Island Hopper 89502 and shop made roof

gtws00
 

Nicely done Lester. That turned out great!
Thanks for sharing
George Toman


Re: Rock Island Hopper 89502 and shop made roof

Eric Hansmann
 

Very nice work on the conversion, Lester! The blog presentation is also well done.


Eric Hansmann
Murfreesboro, TN



On January 1, 2019 at 7:36 AM Lester Breuer <rforailroad@...> wrote:

I have finished Rock Island Hopper 89502, an upgraded Athearn offset-side, peaked end hopper.  Upgrade includes brake piping, wire grab irons, slope sheet braces, wine door locks, and train line.  The Rock Island added a shop made roof to the prototype in 1945.  The finished RI hopper 89502 can receive a resin cast removable hopper roof to convert it into a covered hopper.  The attached photo of the upgraded hopper car was taken before the roof was painted, decals and weathering added.  Another blog post, “Rock Island Shop Made Covered Hopper Roof,” the one you see first, covers building the RI shop made covered hopper roof.   To see and read about RI hopper 89502 please scroll down to the prior post to read “Rock Island Hopper 89502.” Photos and writeup of finished hopper car and roof are on my blog I started to share photos and writeup of modeling projects on my Minneapolis & Northland Railroad Company.   If you would like to take a look please do at the following:




Re: Has anyone ever used products from The Army Painter?

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

Oops sorry nothing to do with freight cars.
-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS


Re: Has anyone ever used products from The Army Painter?

Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
 

On 12/31/2018 10:22 PM, np328 wrote:
The tufts come in a great assortment with the winter tufts perhaps looking good on a California Layout and the Lowland and Swamp tufts looking good to me as local Midwest applicable.

    I bought some tuffs however be careful of the color.  I got what I thought would be green and turned out to be brown.  I think the pictures have no relationship to the product number.  Other than that they are nice and can be repainted which is what I did.

-- 
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, 
SPROG, JMRI User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS