R Wilson asked:
"Would it be possible to just take an AAR '37 10'er, replace the roof and ends to get one of these? Is it such that the sides would have to be reduced in height? 
Looking to get a prototypical model of them and want to do it right."

Tim O'Connor replied:

"Aren't they basically PRR X31's with different ends and rivet patterns?
My instinct would be to start with the Bowser and figure out how to replace the ends, and use Archer rivets for the rest."

Not really.  The SAL cars are more akin to the 1932 ARA boxcar design, with different side rivet patterns (double rows, plus an odd 5-panel to the left of the door/4-panel right of the door pattern for the single door PRR cars) and tabbed side sills.  You'd have to redo the sides and underframe if you start from the Bowser model, which actually would be almost as much work as starting with the old MDC model, which has an incorrect roof profile and a caricature of the Pullman carbuilders' ends.  Still, it's a doable kitbash if you can come up with the ends; just not as straightforward of one as you'd think.  

Sadly, the best approach would be to pony up for a Sunshine kit for the automobile cars (assuming that the original poster is working in HO scale).  No real help for the single door cars except for the suggested kitbashes.

http://www.sunshinekits.com/sunimages/sun55.pdf

Ben Hom   

would it be possible to just take an AAR '37 10'er, replace the roof and ends to get one of these? is it such that the sides would have to be reduced in height? looking to get a prototypical model of them and want to do it right.

On 11/10/2018 8:16 AM, Claus Schlund \(HGM\) wrote:

Hi List Members,

 

I thought some might be interested in these views showing boxcars loaded with cigars - they would be better images but for the stupid banners that occlude the reporting marks!

    I find this interesting and it gives away my age.

"1988 by actor and businessman Gene Autry as "Gene Autry Western Heritage Museum"

--
Jon Miller
For me time stopped in 1941
Digitrax  Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User
SPROG User
NMRA Life member #2623
Member SFRH&MS

I use Prismacolor Premier pencils for older chalk marks; water slide decals and Clover House dry transfers for newer  markings.  As others have stated, pencils (and most other weathering) adheres better to a "toothy" matte finish.  For an example, of old and new marks, see the Kadee BX-57 photo attached here.

Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA

Attachments:

• IMG_0268.jpg

Tom

An alternative to the pencils would be to use Gelly Roll white pens, which
have a VERY bright, opaque white ink. Many modelers use them to simulate the
bright white markings seen on steel plates. (I think decals for steel plate loads
were also done by Sunshine.)

You can write with the pens onto decal paper, then transfer the ones you like to
your cars.

https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-57457-Gelly-Classic-White/dp/B075VLPL1C

I like the pencils because they are NOT overly bright, but I also have the pens.

Tim O'Connor



 Scott, I get the same result as you trying to use the Prismacolor Premiere.
 Will look for the Verithin kind, but apparently no shops in Denmark carry those.

 On the same note, what kind, brand and model,  do you use to make the individual boards on wood sided cars look lightly
 weathered? Here I have the same problem to some extent. Kind regards
 Tom Larsen Holte, Denmark


--
Tim O'Connor
Sterling, Massachusetts