Re: Armour Stock Car Photos
nyc3001 .
Is there anything close in HO? iirc there were similar stock cars operated by Swift (SLSX).
-Phil Lee |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Tom you mean like these. https://motrakmodelsusa.com/products.html#!/Masonite-Products/c/40570092/offset=0&sort=normal
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Brian J. Carlson On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:14 PM, Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:
-- Brian J. Carlson, P.E. Cheektowaga NY |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Lester Breuer
Jeff there is a commercial solution - vortex paint mixer. A good one will cost around a hundred dollars. Since I already have a paint shaker (photo) I have not been willing to make the investment in the vortex type.
Lester Breuer |
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Liquitex "Acrylic Gouache"
Liquitex "Acrylic Gouache" John A. Craig posted this on the Groups.io Weathering Techniques group. “There is a very interesting "new" line of "Artists" paints offered by Liquitex. The line is "Acrylic Gouache", available in 2 oz. bottles with a "dropper top". I purchased almost a "full set" for painting/illustration purposes, but of late, have used them in weathering applications, as well, and found them very useful (particularly in "dry-brush" techniques). The paints are very opaque and dry "dead flat". A collection of "earth colors" (Raw Sienna/Burnt/Sienna/Raw Umber/Burnt Umber/Yellow Ochre ) plus White and Black should provide a good "basic" weathering set. The paints can be mixed with "regular" Acrylics. I have a number of "test strips" on styrene and other surfaces which I have used to test adhesion and durability, and the paints survive the "scratch test" very well. One caveat is to avoid other brands of so-called "acrylic-gouaches", as I have tried a number of them over the years and found none to be satisfactory until the advent of the Liquitex version.” This product on the Liquitex website: https://www.liquitex.com/us/products/professional/colors/acrylic-gouache/ Has anyone else tried these? Thanks. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Those are great! You probably could sell them on Ebay (or Amazon!) to modelers -- sized for each brand. :-) On 9/26/2022 2:08 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Nelson Moyer
After knocking over a few bottles of paint and Tenax, I made caddies with wide bases to hold the different sizes of paint and glue bottles I use. I drilled through the top piece, then glued that piece onto a base block. I only use Vallejo once to get the right color of red on a Cudahy reefer ends and roof, so I haven’t made a caddie for Vallejo bottles yet. Most of my painting is airbrushing in the paint booth, and I don’t use the caddies there, just when painting at the workbench. I also use a caddie to hold Micro Set and Micro Sol, which are especially prone to getting knocked over without support. The photos shows my caddie collection.
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Jeff Skeels
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 11:37 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Thanks Nelson, that's basically, what I have been doing, but my mixing tools aren't quite as sophisticated. Actually, I have on occasion spilled paint while pulling the dropper portion off of the bottle. I'm looking at a method of mixing that avoids pulling the dropper or hand shaking. I have some thoughts on what I may experiment with and will share with the group if I succeed.
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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Re: Armour Stock Car Photos
Here is a partial view. Sorry, wish it was better. Moderator Railway Bull Shippers Group |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Years ago I bought an inexpensive, battery powered paint mixer from Micromark, and I use it for every brand of paint and it works wonders. In fact, I bought a second one after the first one finally died after about 15 years of use. One thing I have learned is never to put un-used paint from a session back into the original bottle. It's just asking for trouble. This is especially true for acrylic paints -- limit the bottle's exposure to air! :-) On 9/25/2022 9:15 PM, Lester Breuer wrote: Jeff asked what method I use to mix Vallejo paints in their bottle? --
Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
Nelson
And I agree with you that because there were a number of orders over a span of years, there could have been differences. The "car cement" applied to roofs seems to have been something of a "fad" that faded after a period of time. They must have noticed that the stuff peeled off pretty quickly. I am reminded of the plastic roof material that was popular with some American automobiles in the 1960's! Tim O'Connor On 9/25/2022 8:11 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
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Tim O'Connor Sterling, Massachusetts |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Jeff Skeels
Sorry, my last post was to be a reply to Lester's post on mixing paint. My apologies to both Lester and Nelson.
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Jeff Skeels
Thanks Nelson, that's basically, what I have been doing, but my mixing tools aren't quite as sophisticated. Actually, I have on occasion spilled paint while pulling the dropper portion off of the bottle. I'm looking at a method of mixing
that avoids pulling the dropper or hand shaking. I have some thoughts on what I may experiment with and will share with the group if I succeed.
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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Airbrushing Water-Base Paints w/ steel nuts
Andy Carlson
Phil Flory must be over 100 years old if he indeed introduced metal pieces to aid paint mixing. As a child, aerosol spray paints were super common and were using these pieces to mix the paint and gave rise to the term "rattle can". I can assume that they predate me, possibly by many decades, hence the apparent old age of Mr. Flory. -Andy Carlson Ojai CA
On Monday, September 26, 2022 at 08:03:25 AM PDT, Curt Fortenberry <curtfortenberry@...> wrote:
I think the tip for the nut was from Phil Flory (Flory Models UK). He recommended marine grade stainless steel nuts. I've done that as he suggested. I think it works great. Curt Fortenberry _._,_._,_ |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Curt Fortenberry
I think the tip for the nut was from Phil Flory (Flory Models UK). He recommended marine grade stainless steel nuts. I've done that as he suggested. I think it works great. Curt Fortenberry |
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Re: Armour Stock Car Photos
Clark Propst
Here’s what I have. I ‘think’ they are standard GATC design? I transposed
the initials
Clark
Propst Mason City Iowa |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Scott H. Haycock
I read somewhere about putting a small nut in Vallejo style bottles to aid in mixing via shaking. Don't use a round object such as a ball bearing- it will clog the tip!
Scott Haycock
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Lester Breuer
Dean I purchase mine at the local hobby shop which does do mail order. They stock both Vallejo Model Air and Model Color. I also buy Vallejo at Hobby Lobby; however, limited colors available and not always both Model Air and Model Color.
The shop: Scale Model Supplies |
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Re: Airbrushing Water-Base Paints
Lester Breuer
Jeff asked what method I use to mix Vallejo paints in their bottle?
Jeff I mix the Vallejo paint in their bottle by first shaking the bottle as any paint. And, then removing the top of the dropper bottle and using a stirring tool I put inside the bottle and stir it manually. I have included photos of my stirring tools. The three are: the cupped one from a measuring spoon from a chemistry set, one with a slot that do not remember where I obtained and the third a brass wire flatten on one end with a hammer to make the flat and the other end dipped in a plastic tool coating material available at the hardware store. The other photo shows top remove and one of the stirring tolls inside an empty bottle for photo. Lester Breuer |
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Re: Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
killercarp
On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 05:13 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:
Determining the time and conditions where car cement was applied might be difficult if possible at all. As modelers we can only go on prototype photos of cars in our timeframe if available. It appears to have been something that occurred in certain circumstances but like many things not something to pigeon hole into an absolute. Based on an image I had, I went with a mineral red roof on this HC-1A. It was modeled from one of the Amarillo cars that had some lettering selectivity removed and replaced with decals from Jerry Hammsmith to model a CB&Q HC-1A in the Illinois sand pool. One need not do an FW&D car to support the museum. Tim VanMersbergen ![]() |
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Re: Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
Nelson Moyer
Yes I have the RPC, and I addressed my caveat about his universal statement earlier.
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of gary laakso
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 6:17 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
I will again reference the Ed Hawkins article in RPC Volume 30. My FW&D covered hoppers will follow his description of colors at page 97. “The sides, ends, slope sheets and AB brake parts received mineral red paint. Black car cement was applied to the roof, hopper bottoms and outlets.”
Gary Laakso Northwest of Mike Brock
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Nelson Moyer
Seeing the black roof raised a red flag for me, so I posted a question about covered hopper paint colors on the CB&Q list and consulted Burlington Bulletin No. 20 titled Covered Hoppers. CB&Q built the first HC-1 covered hoppers in Galesburg
and when the Galesburg car shop was closed, the rest of the series was build in Havelock, NE. Orders for HC-1s were placed in 1940, 1943, 1945, 1948. HC-1A orders were placed in 1951, 1952, 1954, 1955, and 1957. HC-1B orders were placed in 1958, HC-1C orders
were placed in 1961, and HC-1D order were placed in 1968 and 1969. Cars were essentially identical except for trucks, hand brakes, and paint schemes, and lettering. HC-1 cars built in 1940 were mineral red on all surfaces with Everywhere West slogan and black
background heralds. They had Nataional Type B trucks and Equipco hand brakes. The black herald background was elliminated with subsequent orders, but the paint and lettering was the same. FW&D got 25 cars (series 2201-2225) from the 1945 order. A photograph
of FW&D 2215 taken in 1963 shows no black paint on the underfarme, trucks, or roof. Block lettering and black paint was first used on covered hoppers with the HC-1B order in 1958. The Everywhere West slogan was eliminated at that time. All of these cars had
black trucks, most were painted mineral red overall, and a few were painted solid black overall. Black underbody with mineral red on the rest of the car was first used PS-2 cars and on repaints in the 1960. No mention is made of black roofs, except on solid
black cars.The paint scheme changed in 1961, when hoppers were painted light gray with red block lettering and a three color Burlington Route herald. |
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Re: Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
Nelson Moyer
I agree with you about the roof, but I don’t see black on the underframe. How do we differentiate between steam era soot and car cement in a black and white photo?
Nelson Moyer
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Tim O'Connor
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 6:01 PM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Amarillo RR Museum FW&D Covered Hopper
Nelson
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