Date   

Re: Labor Day modeling follies

William Hirt
 

Denny,

I purchased a few years ago a paint bottle opener from Micro Mark <http://www.micromark.com/jar-opener-5-inch-dia-capacity,7725.html>. I just used again this weekend. I have never broken a jar using it and I've been able to even get very old and long unused paint bottles open with it. It works perfect for Floquil and Polly Scale bottles.

Bill Hirt

On 9/5/2016 7:34 PM, Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC] wrote:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?


Baby Standards' tank cars

D. Scott Chatfield
 

A couple friends who spent their careers with Chevron here in the southeast (Standard of California which bought Standard of Kentucky in 1941 if memory serves) have told me they only saw plain black UTLX tanks at their facilities.

Before adopting the brand nane Chevron, Standard of California called itself SoCal outside its home territory if memory serves while Standard of Kentucky called itself Kyso.

And one little point when talking about the Baby Standards:  each had the right to use the brand name "Standard" in their home territories, and several of them did so into the '70s, and Amoco did so into the early '90s.  The sticking point was SO-New Jersey called itself  "Esso" at home and wanted to use that name nationwide.  The other Standards wouldn't let them so Esso often used Enjay outside its home territory.  Finally Esso relented and adopted the name Exxon around 1970.


Scott Chatfield


Re: Adhesive for Gondola Clutter?

Todd Sullivan
 

I've used Hob-e-Tak by Woodland Scenics, and there are probably other similar products out there.  I dab small amounts with a toothpick on the floor and especially at the floor/side seam.  It dries very sticky, and I just sprinkle in the debris that I want, shake it around inside the gon, and shake out the excess after a few minutes.

Todd Sullivan


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

Jared Harper
 

Who's on this list, a  bunch of geezers?

Jared Harper
Athens, GA


---In STMFC@..., <sarahsan@...> wrote :

Greg and Denny,

You need your own supply of these jar lid openers. :~) Seriously, I grab them up at county fairs and such, especially at booths that deal with ageing issues. My credit union also gives them away frequently. I mostly use them to hold the shafts when I set screw-on points to my wooden arrows (mandatory archery content).

Now I'm at the age where their use in the kitchen is becoming a day-to-day necessity.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 9/6/16 12:13 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny



Re: InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Fred Jansz
 

BTW: these 18/19/21 reefers are bringing enormous prices on ebay! Followed a set of R-30-21 reefers for $44.95 each and they were gone in a day or what. This seller beats 'em all: new this R-30-18 was $ 28.97 according to the label on the box, now asking the bargain of $ 59.99 !!
Fred Jansz
InterMountain 47401-08 Reefer Southern Pacific SP PFE #61597 HO

 


Re: InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Fred Jansz
 

Problem might be in the pricing. The 18/19/21 series costs $ 42.95 ! While their 'ever lasting' 23-seris costs $32.95 A reefer is a reefer, isn't it? The 25 is $ 34.95 and the 10 is 39.95 Seems to me the chinese want some more food besides that bowl of white rice. Maybe it's about time to get production back in the US of A? Another tactics might be to stop the 10, 23 & 25 series cars and focus on the 'new' 18/19/21 series. That makes them look more 'exclusive' and maybe this could trigger pre-orders? I own like 12 R-40-23 cars now, how many more 23's does one need...? BTW: I wouldn't mind a few 18/19/21 KITS!
best regards, Fred Jansz


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
 

Greg and Denny,

You need your own supply of these jar lid openers. :~) Seriously, I grab them up at county fairs and such, especially at booths that deal with ageing issues. My credit union also gives them away frequently. I mostly use them to hold the shafts when I set screw-on points to my wooden arrows (mandatory archery content).

Now I'm at the age where their use in the kitchen is becoming a day-to-day necessity.

Yours Aye,


Garth Groff


On 9/6/16 12:13 AM, tgregmrtn@... [STMFC] wrote:
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 
In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny



Re: Labor Day modeling follies

rob.mclear3@...
 

Floquil caps can be difficult and I don't like using pliers for the reasons that one of the other posters mentioned, I have broken the glass jar top and cap right off the bottle, not good for the hands.  What I do now is have a piece of pliable rubber pad, the kind that has perforations in it and used in cupboards to stop things sliding around, on hand and wrap that around the cap I can usually get the caps off with this although it does take some force.   I have also used lacquer thinner in the cap upside down as well and that works ok too.

Rob McLear
Aussie.


Re: InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Scott Kremer
 

I have had these on order for some time. At the national train show I was told that there are currently not enough orders to put these cars into production despite the stated delivery date. I wish Intermountain could make it clear to us the current production decisions. i do not think it is good for them or us to list delivery dates and then change them continuously. If more orders are needed tell us to help develop those orders.

Scott Kremer


On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:59 PM, fgexbill@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:


Adhesive for Gondola Clutter?

Bob Chapman
 

Gondolas are seldom completely cleaned, and the empties often run with dunnage, coal, metal scrap, aggregates, etc. leftover from a previous load. I can of course run the car with this stuff loose in the bottom, but I'd rather find a way to secure it. I've tried various experiments, but they either don't adhere the material well, or dry with some gloss or a bit of color change. For example, Woodland Scenics scenic cement dried with a slight gloss and a whitish cast.
 
Any suggestions re what might work in this application?
 
Thanks!
 
Bob Chapman 


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

Greg Martin
 

Denny,
 
As others have mentioned I too use hot water to expand the lid and in some cases the darn lids still wants to stick; so I wonder slowly into the kitchen and get the wife's rubber or neoprene bottle opener out of the drawer and wrap it tight and that more than not will do the job. (A wide rubber band works as well) I hate resorting to pliers of any kind if it can be helped. I also hate getting caught with the evidence in hand...    3^)
 
Greg Martin 
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 9/5/2016 5:41:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, STMFC@... writes:
Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

pennsylvania1954
 

Denny--I have had success with just hot water from the tap. Run the water until it is hot, then immerse the cap end in the stream. There will be enough heat to expand the cap and soften the dried paint. After a minute or so, it is time for the pliers.

Steve Hoxie
Pensacola FL


Re: InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Richard Townsend
 

That's what the information in the provided link says.
 
Richard Townsend
Lincoln City, OR
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Schuyler Larrabee' schuyler.larrabee@... [STMFC]
To: STMFC
Sent: Mon, Sep 5, 2016 7:43 pm
Subject: RE: [STMFC] InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

 
These are the 474XX series models? I presume they’re assembled?

Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 10:00 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

I notice on InterMountain's website that they have scheduled another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer offering schemes and numbers for -18. 19 and -21.

InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases <http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html>;



<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html>; Image removed by sender. image

<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html>; InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases

InterMountain News & Information



<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html>; View on intermountain-railway...

Preview by Yahoo




Bill Welch

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Schuyler Larrabee
 

These are the 474XX series models? I presume they’re assembled?

Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 10:00 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer





I notice on InterMountain's website that they have scheduled another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer offering schemes and numbers for -18. 19 and -21.



InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases <http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html>



<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html> Image removed by sender. image

<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html> InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases

InterMountain News & Information




<http://intermountain-railway.com/newshocomingsoon.html> View on intermountain-railway...

Preview by Yahoo






Bill Welch





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

Andy Miller
 

For Floquil solvent-based paint, I use the few-drops-of- lacquer-thinner-in-the-inverted cap technique already mentioned. For other paints, I use the hot water technique, but I just hold the cap sideways under the hot water tap being careful not to let the hot water run over the glass bottle.



Regards,



Andy Miller



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 9:55 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies





Gary, I use pretty much the same method, except to be sure the cap expands quickly from its static state, I put the bottle top-down in a shallow dish and then pour boiling water from the kettle into the lid deep enough to pretty much match the height of the cap. This way the cap expands quickly and the bottle doesn’t, and generally the bottle doesn’t get hot. I’d also be jumpy about the bottle deciding to let go and you’ve got paint in a lot of places you don’t want it!

As Rod suggested, the slip-jaw pliers usually win over the stuck cap.

Schuyler

Denny:

I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes. The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.

Gary Laakso

south of Mike Brock
On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

Denny,

To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the ottle. Wait a few minutes and it should release. I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.

joe binish

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny

Sacramento, CA 95864

------------------------------------
Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
------------------------------------

------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

dgconnery@...
 

Dr. Anspatch,


I have found the True Color Flat Rail Brown to be anything but flat and more akin to Oxide Red than either the color of rail I see or the color Floquil used - which I have enjoyed using for several purposes. I have not yet found a use for the jar of Flat Rail Brown from True Color but it will not be on either my rail sides or other rusted and dirty metal surfaces.


I hold my metal lidded jars of paint I can not remove under the hottest running water I can get from my water heater to expand the metal and loosen the lid. If I have to resort to my goosenecks to ultimately break the lid free I know I must replace the lid, once squeezed with the pliers the lid never seals properly and the paint will be wasted.


Dave Connery

San Ramon, CA


Re: F&C KCS gon-hopper

Andy Cich
 

Photos and Drawings for the KCS car are also in the 1940 Carbuilders Cyclopedia, pages 272 and 273. Unfortunately, the drawings do not show brake component layout. Anybody know if the drawings in the MM article show these components? Or does the MM article have the same drawings as the Car Builders Cyclopedia? Since I have the Cyclopedia I want to know if it is worth finding a copy of the magazine.

 

At St Louis RPM, I did take several photos of the underbody of the car Steve Funaro built for his display. I’ll post them in the photo section. But I’m not sure he did the components 100% correct. The reservoir always is mounted in such a way that if the bolts came out it wouldn’t fall to the ground. Steve’s car, like many models, has the reservoir mounted upside down and stuck to some brackets protruding from the floor.

 

Andy Cich

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...]
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 7:59 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] F&C KCS gon-hopper

 

 

Rick Harris asked:
"Next up on the work bench is this resin kit.  To the best of my ability I have checked the group archives and the internet for any information available on this group of cars.  I have had no luck.  What I need in particular is any photo or diagram that might show the brake gear and rigging.  Any help would be greatly appreciated."

See "All Welded Hopper-Gon - Unique to the KCS" by Martin Lofton in the January 1991 issue of Mainline Modeler for photos and drawings.

 

 

Ben Hom


InterMountain doing another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer

Bill Welch
 

I notice on InterMountain's website that they have scheduled another run of Terry Wegman's PFE reefer offering schemes and numbers for -18. 19 and -21.


InterMountain HO Scale Upcoming Releases


Bill Welch


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Gary, I use pretty much the same method, except to be sure the cap expands quickly from its static state, I put the bottle top-down in a shallow dish and then pour boiling water from the kettle into the lid deep enough to pretty much match the height of the cap. This way the cap expands quickly and the bottle doesn’t, and generally the bottle doesn’t get hot. I’d also be jumpy about the bottle deciding to let go and you’ve got paint in a lot of places you don’t want it!



As Rod suggested, the slip-jaw pliers usually win over the stuck cap.



Schuyler



Denny:

I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes. The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.



Gary Laakso

south of Mike Brock

On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:



Denny,

To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the ottle. Wait a few minutes and it should release. I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.



joe binish







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout. The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted Athearn Lancaster & Chester “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy” car was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48. It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside- a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over. There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped. I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box: a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos. I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight.

*****

Tru-Color paints: I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes. So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red). I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched. Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

*****

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction. It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864



------------------------------------
Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Labor Day modeling follies

gary laakso
 

Denny:
I place the bottle upside down in a pot with water up to the top of the cap and heat the water until it boils for a few minutes.  The bottle needs to cool for a minute after its removed and then it unscrews.

Gary Laakso
south of Mike Brock


On Sep 5, 2016, at 9:22 PM, binish6 binish6@q.com [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:

 

Denny,
To address the last point, I have turned the bottle upside down and dripped a few drops of lacquer thinner between the top and the  ottle.  Wait a few minutes and it should release.  I have also crushed a scalecoat black bottle, cutting my hand and spilling paint all over myself, my clothes and the floor.

joe binish



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Denny Anspach danspachmd@... [STMFC]" <STMFC@...>
Date: 9/5/16 7:34 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: Steam Era Freight Car List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Labor Day modeling follies

Following the veiled advice of a well known member of this list, I have initiated a program -one car at a time- retiring unworthy layout cars in favor of more  worthy cars off the shelf, out of the shelters of their boxes, and all propelled onto the layout.   The first “unworthy” was a blue box blue-painted  Athearn Lancaster & Chester  “Springmaid Line” box car (the six inch thick running board finally got to me); and the first “worthy”  car  was a very interesting Sunshine resin PRR X29B car purchased from Patricia Lofton that Martin Lofton had built for himself to illustrate the directions for kit #64.36. The car was very nicely finished and detailed- as expected.

1) The trucks were Cape Line cast metal.

2) One side (and end) were finished as #27503 with Shadow Keystone 1/54; while the other side and end were finished as #27049 Merchandise Service 1/48.  It is an interesting car to catalog by number.

3) A substantial weight is loose inside-  a dreaded event-, and an event I have avoided otherwise to date. If the weight shifts, the car goes over.  There is nothing to be done, except perhaps drilling holes in the bottom, injecting glue and then hope that the weight (shape? size?) can be positioned to drop into it and stick.

4) The coupler boxes were glued with no screw fastenings, but with coupling bars carefully glued to the lids. .  

I replaced the trucks with Kadee Reboxx-equipped PRR 2DF8s, which are probably too heavy- but at least they are for the right railroad. Non-destructively, I was able toI replace the standard Kadee couplers with  Kadee scale short shank with arms clipped.  I secured the boxes then with 0-80 screws.The car is very handsome, runs very freely and is ready to baffle the next visiting  anal-retentive modeler that decides to monitor  consists.

I have also another interesting Lofton-built car that is yet to venture out of its box:  a lovely finished C&O aluminum box car kit 63.4 which has no weight whatsoever (with no path yet to provide one), and the highly detailed underbody is unpainted except for quick and dirty hand-painting of parts and structures hanging down enough to show in kit photos.  I have done nothing yet to this car, but will at the very least install cast metal Kadee trucks to supply at least some modicum of weight. 

*****

Tru-Color paints:  I use more and more of these fine paints as my cache of Floquil diminishes.  So today I opened my first TCP “flat”, #830 Flat Rail Brown, except: it was not flat, but had considerable gloss; and it did not come close to the familiar Floquil Rail Brown (it was quite red).  I wonder if the lid and contents were mismatched.  Have others used any the TCP flats, and if so, what are your experiences ?

***** 

Perhaps from age, perhaps from being uncareful when closing bottles, but I am running into a plethora of used paint bottles -the usual ½ and 1 oz.- that i simply cannot open without some destruction.  It is frustrating when a bottle half filled with just the paint that you need for the airbrush already in hand, and short of a hammer, one can simply not get it open (screw-driver prying, using a variety of bottle-lid opening tools, casting imprecations, muscle, etc.) with number landing in the waste basket unopened. How do others address this very frustrating and wasteful issue?

Denny




Sacramento, CA 95864



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Posted by: Denny Anspach <danspachmd@...>
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Yahoo Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/STMFC/join
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
    STMFC-digest@...
    STMFC-fullfeatured@...

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    STMFC-unsubscribe@...

<*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to:
    https://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/

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