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Re: D&H open tops
riverman_vt@...
---In STMFC@..., <williamdale75@...> wrote : I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested. The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914. These appeared in the early 1940's and were red. To the best of my knowledge these never wore black. I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint. Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV. Bill Thank you Bill. This is all good information to have. I have three of Allan Seebachs (sp?) O&W Car Shops brass D&H hoppers in wo configurations and am pleased to have them though I usually prefer injection molded or resin for the freight car fleet. But when something like those hoppers comes along and is the only game in town short of scratchbuilding there is room for and exception or two. A fair amount of coal came into Vermont from the D&H branch into Rutland and a small amount over the "Slate Picker" branch that crisscrossed the VT-NY border. But it also came in via the D&H connections with both the Rutland and the Boston & Maine so the D&H hoppers could be seen almost anywhere in the state even if not as common hoppers of the B&O, which seem to be the most frequently seen in our era judging from thousands of photos seen over the years. Then, too, the Rutland used to transfer coal from off line hoppers to its own for delivery simply to cut down per diem charges. Other roads ay have done this too but it seemed to be a standard practice for years on the Rutland. Can you also suggest a source of black D&H decals for the gray covered hoppers used for cement? I hated taking cement samples from those cars in the summer of 1967 because when loaded the top of the load was a good 3 - 4 ft. below the open hatch and we had no scoop to reach it with for sampling. Thus one had to climb down on top of it. Not fun. Wait until the end of the work day and get a shower and a change of clothes as quickly as one could. Quite a bit of cement came into Vermont in those cars before the "Ft. Edward Express" took over the buik of cement delivery into Vermont. Now it all comes in air dump trailers from three points in Quebec. Cordially, Don Valentine
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Rolling stock, never. But I use them for other items. For example I like to spray laser cut wood (out of box, when it is still in a sheet) with MinWax clear coat (wood sealant). I guess if I ever build an Ambroid model, it will get the same treatment. :-) And I'll probably use them for large structures like truss bridges. Tim O'Connor
How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Scott, No, I didn't think you were confrontational. But there's really not much to say. I just test the spray first to make sure it is shooting right before aiming it at a model. Then several light coats are blown with the can aimed just before the model, ending beyond the model on the other side. I usually let each coat dry a bit before going at the model again. Standard stuff. Sometimes it works well, other times not so good. Given the infamous clogging problems with Floquil cans, most of the primers shoot much better. Of course, weather is a factor. I can't do models when the temperature is below 55 degrees, and it's not easy when the wind is blowing. I also do a lot of brush work on structures
and figures with craft store acrylic paints, including Plaid,
Anita's, Americana and Folk Art brands. These are also good for
wash-weathering on freight cars, or just dabbing with a 1/4"
brush on underframes. Right now I'm using these acrylics and a
0000 brush on some O-scale figures for a future English narrow
gauge layout. Next step, buttons, lips and eyeballs. I use a matte art acrylic spray as a sealer. Testors Dullcote or Pactra Flat were best, I can't find them anymore. Plaid Clear Acrylic Sealer from the art store works fairly well, except in high humidity when it sometimes dries milky. This explains my interest in the new Rustoleum product. Yours Aye,
Garth On 1/16/17 5:57 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock '
shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Scott H. Haycock
Garth, I have a spray booth, but don't want to knock a hole in a wall, etc. So I take it outside to use it. This sounds odd- Why don't I just spray in the open? The booths fan removes over spray, and protects the model from stray drafts. I live in New Mexico, and even in winter, we'll get days where I can do this outdoors. As to using spray cans, Google "Replacement spray can nozzles" You can get better nozzles that will produce a finer mist. Scott Haycock
Scott, Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth. Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy? Garth
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Scott H. Haycock
Once I read my last post, I can see where its conciseness might appear confrontational. That was not my intention. I really am interested in your techniques. I suspect a lot of modelers either can't afford, or are intimidated by air brushes and paint booths, yet know that brush painting is near impossible to do well. That leaves spray cans. Any insights you may have would be educational, to say the least! Scott Haycock
.
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Scott, Usually with spray cans on the patio. Now that Floquil sprays have disappeared, I'm stuck with various red oxide primers. I have a huge collection of cans of every brand I could find, each backed by a 3X5" styrene sample card kept in a file box. I make notes on these cards about what cars I've painted with them, and also how the paint performed. The paint is usually not as fine as Floquil, and I'm not happy. Due to ventilation and my sweetheart's asthma issues, I will never have an indoor paint booth. Does this get me kicked off STMFC for heresy? Garth On 1/16/17 5:30 AM, 'Scott H. Haycock '
shhaycock@... [STMFC] wrote:
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Scott H. Haycock
So Garth, You've piqued my interest...how do you paint your freight cars? Scott Haycock Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me. I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once. Yours Aye,
Garth Groff
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Benjamin Hom
Greg Martin asked:
"How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic airbrush? Show of hands..." Actually, I do if the color is available. I hate cleaning the airbrush. Ben Hom
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Greg, Some of us don't have a paint booth, and have to do our painting out on the patio, or by sable. Yes, I tried propellant cans, and they didn't work very well for me. I do have an airbrush somewhere. Used just once. Yours Aye,
Garth Groff On 1/16/17 2:24 AM, tgregmrtn@...
[STMFC] wrote:
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Re: Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
Greg Martin
How many guys here use spray cans to paint their HO Scale equipment? In
today's world why wouldn't you have acquired even the most economic
airbrush?
Show of hands...
Greg Martin
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through
it. Norman Maclean In a message dated 1/15/2017 3:12:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
STMFC@... writes:
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Re: Re weigh locations
rob.mclear3@...
Tony thank you I have downloaded that and has answered all of my questions in one hit. I didn't know of that resource and will have to keep it in mind in future thank you so much.
Rob McLear Aussie.
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Re: D&H open tops
Benjamin Hom
Bill Dale wrote:
"In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53." Sorry, Bill, 209 cars is not "a lot", even where the D&H is concerned. It pales next to the 3500+ Seley cars (51%) and the ~1400 30 ft 11 in fishbelly twins (20%) on the roster in the July 1950 ORER, making up a whopping 3% of the D&H hopper fleet. Ben Hom
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Re: D&H open tops
William Dale
I forgot to add this earlier for those who may be interested. The D&H also had their fleet of L.C.L air activated cement canister gondolas, originally 15950-15969, and then added 15900-15914. These appeared in the early 1940's and were red. To the best of my knowledge these never wore black. I have a photo of 15911, Oneonta 8-64 still wearing it's red paint. Now, Shortline Products makes a set of decals for the air cement canisters covering the D&H, NYC, DL&W, and LV.
Bill
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Re: D&H open tops
William Dale
Group,
I wanted to add to this topic in regards to paint and decals available. In my collection of photos, the D&H had purchased a lot of composite, not Seley, 3-bay hoppers, series 4401-4611. First, no. 4549 appears as built 9-36 no circular herald, and is all black. Although a B&W image the contrast between the coupler and the car body is significant. Second, no. 4541 with last shop date of 1-48, is in a "Anthracite" herald and is also black going along with what has been mentioned earlier. The photo is color and the car has some hard years on it. For anyone interested there were still 209 of these in January of '53. Now for decals, in HO, are as mentioned earlier the Tichy offerings, Westerfield D3309 for the USRA single sheath box cars, C-D-S 591 was for the USRA 2-bay hoppers converted to covered hoppers in the red scheme, nos. 3201-3220. All were in service as of January '53 in grey though. I don't know when they were changed like the USRA single sheath box cars also in cement service, and F&C has the early gondola sets. Lastly, years back the O&W car shop imported brass Seley hoppers cars and had a very nice decal set to finish them off. I have two sets packed away, but they are still listed as set #1004 on the Old and Weary Car Shop website. Bill
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Rust-Oleum Dead Flat Clear Finish
thecitrusbelt@...
At yesterday's Great Train Show I talked with Joel Bragdon, the weathering powder entrepreneur, about base and finish coatings for use with chalks and powders.
He mentioned that Rust-Oleum announced a new coating last March called "Dead Flat Clear" and that he likes the product. Here is a photo link:
I did a little searching and found that Home Depot and Lowe's both carry it.
Bob Chaparro
Hemet, CA
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Resin kits for sale...
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
When I mentioned in my email that “…the rest are no longer available” I was referring to the kits no longer being available from the original source such as Sunshine and Speedwitch. Until they are sold, all of the kits on the list are available to be purchased.
Jack Burgess
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Re: Re weigh locations
Tony Thompson
Odd how people forget , but there is a VERY comprehensive list of reweigh symbols, still on the "steam era freight cars" web site, originally compiled by Richard Hendrickson and added to by many others. Here's the link. You might wish to do as I did, and download it for your own files.
Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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Resin kits for sale...
Jack Burgess <jack@...>
Resin kits for sale…
Like some others, I have a pile of resins kits stashed away. But rather than deciding that I don’t have time to build them all, I have realized that I should not have purchased some of them in the first place. Most of the kits in this group are freight cars from eastern roads that would most likely never be seen on the Yosemite Valley Railroad as well as foreign stock cars and automobile cars. Not sure what I was thinking back then.
So, I have 15 resin kits for sale from Speedwitch, Sunshine, Westerfield, Funaro & Camerlengo, and Des Plaines Valley Car and Foundry. A few of the Westerfield cars are still available but the rest of no longer available.
To download the list, go to
http://www.yosemitevalleyrr.com/clinics
and click on Resin Kits for Sale at the bottom of the list.
Jack Burgess
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Re: Re weigh locations
Garth Groff <sarahsan@...>
Rob, From my notes on previous discussions (IIRC contributed by the late Richard Hendrickson): TOP--Topeka SAN--San Bernardino CLE--Cleburne, Texas
From the Champ decal set: AM, AQ, CY, FM, KC, LJ, SB, TS and WC. Some
are obvious, other are unknown to me, but I'm certain others
will comment at length on them. Yours Aye,
Garth Groff On 1/15/17 8:49 AM,
rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] wrote:
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Re: Re weigh locations
In the group files is a document listing many shop symbols for many railroads. There would be the first place I would start. Chuck Peck in FL
On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 8:49 AM, rob.mclear3@... [STMFC] <STMFC@...> wrote:
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