Re: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car
Tony Thompson
I agree. There’a a builder photo of this car in the Magor Car Corp. book, page 79.
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
Richard Wilkens
Here is a photo of C&O 80977 at Rockport, WA with a water turbine runner for Generator No. 41 at the Ross Dam powerhouse and the photo was taken in 1955.
Richard Wilkens
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
To mount the QC trucks on my model, I used a pair of Walthers kingpins shortened to fit through the QC body and truck bolsters.
The heads of the kingpins were fitted into recesses ground into the the bottoms of the soft, cast metal deckplates to be cemented above the car bolster. The king pin was cut just long enough to drill a hole slightly below the bottom of the truck bolster when put on the car (which was upsidedown). A washer was used to gauge where the hole should be drilled in the king pin. A cotter pin was used to hold the truck to the polster, making sure the bottom of the king pin cleared the center axle. Installing the trucks was complicated and it was all a very close fit. The truck needs to be postioned forward enough so it can swing and not strike the well hole casing behind it. Nor sould it foul the car steps at the corners, when traversing a curve. I filed down the thickness of the truck end beam on what would be the 'inside' end for each truck, to gain a little more space. My well hole car cme out with about a 48" minumum radius. It tracked OK through a well laid and gauged No. 5 switch, but tended to derail on the only No. 4 on my layout. Inspite of all that fussy work, using king pins with cotter pin locks makes it easier to put on or take off a truck than would be a screw head or nut directly above the center axle. The method I used also avoids running a screw directly into or through the metal deck plates on each end. Ed Bommer
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Photo: Poultry Car
Photo: Poultry Car Link courtesy of Ron Christensen: https://www.sswda.org/archive/frank-wescott-1860-1929-wescott-winks/ Scroll down for photo. Bob Chaparro Moderator Railway Bull Shippers Group
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
Alexander Schneider Jr
Thanks for the links. Were these cars welded rather than riveted?
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Looking further, the difficult part of there cars will be the 6 wheel truck mountings. QC was determined to have the center of rotation directly over the middle axle and they have you gluing a pivot plate onto the underbody. Central Valley's knob and dress snap arrangement, of the same era, was removable. Athearn and others shifted the pivot to allow access to a screw. I'm wondering if a #4 nut could be epoxied under the car and a hex bolt run up through the hole and tightened with pliers. Has anyone tried such an arrangement for mounting 6 wheel trucks?
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
Seth Lakin
Alex, I too have a Quality Craft C&O/NYC Greenville Well Hole kit. 1977 Prestige wood and metal kit. 10 were built for the C&O in 1948 then two were sold to the NYC in 1950 becoming the lot 808-F. There was a two part article in the NYCSHS Central Headlight with in the last two years that covers all of NYC’s regular and heavy duty flats. There are only 2 photos of the 808-F in the NYCSHS archives Im out for the evening but I’ll look in the file that I have for these cars tomorrow.
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SFRD Questions
Nelson Moyer
I just read Volume 2 of the Santa Fe Railway Rolling Stock Reference Series on reefers, USRA rebuilds to be specific, in preparation for building four RCW kits. The text states that Rr-35 and Rr-36 classes got Royal Type F slack adjusters, but the text is silent on the remaining classed from Rr-39/40/45. Did these last three classed got slack adjusters or not? Kit instructions are generic for all classes. They simply say install the slack adjuster.
The second question is about slogan assignments for Rr-45 cars. The table in Appendix B stops at Rr-44. The only photo of a Rr-45 class car is 9516 with El Capitan. Slogan number assignments or photos of Rr-45 cars showing the slogan would be helpful in selecting a road number.
Nelson Moyer
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Re: Photo: PFE 14475
Guy Wilber
Bob Chaparro wrote:
“I’m not sure why this photo was taken. Perhaps it records some damage but that is not apparent to me.” The striking casting has a large chunk knocked out of it. Could be just for the repair or possibly a claim for the contents of the car. Maybe both. Guy Wilber Reno, Nevada _._,_._,_
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Re: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car
The flat car is almost certainly Watervliet Arsenal #1 and the barrel was made for the Army at Watervliet Arsenal.
Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Bob Chaparro via groups.io <chiefbobbb@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2021 11:49 AM To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> Subject: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car
Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car Photo from the Wyoming State Archives: Undated. Flat car unidentified. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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NYC / C&O WELL HOLE FLAT CAR
WILLIAM PARDIE
I was delighted to see the discussion this morning on the Quality Craft flat car kit. Above is the car that I did over 40 years ago. I feel that it stands tall along more modern kits. I added the brake line to both sides of the car but have recently questioned that decision. This is the only car on my roster that does not have the brake components. as they are locvagtedunder the trucks. I have seveal other wood kit cars on my roster that I feel stqand up well today. I also have a quantity of unbuilt wood kits that I am pasrceling out as I willnever get to them. Hope you enjoy: Bill Pardie
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
Alexander Schneider Jr
Ed and Steve, thank you for getting back to me. I understand fully why it was easier to have separate cylinders and reservoirs for the brakes on each truck, but those aren't modeled. The train line baffled me.
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Ed, your model is outstanding. Wood and metal kits can build up nicely if you're skilled. Because I worked in the electric utility field I will probably over represent heavy duty flat cars. Just so they don't show up in every train!
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Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car
Photo: Gun Barrel On HD Flat Car Photo from the Wyoming State Archives: Undated. Flat car unidentified. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Photo: Producers & Refiners Corp. Tank Car PARX 423
Photo: Producers & Refiners Corp. Tank Car PARX 423 Photo from the Wyoming State Archives: Taken in 1929. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
Ed, Alex,
The Pullman Library on-line Jim Kinkaid photo collection has photos of both a NYC well car, 499086
Railroad-N-Q - Pullman-Library (smugmug.com)
and the C&O car Ed showed
Railroad-C - Pullman-Library (smugmug.com)
The C&O photo shows the train line running outside the well.
The NYC photo shows no train line on the side photo.
The cars were built about 9 years apart, and so, could have been somewhat different.
I see no reason for dual train lines, but understand the need for brake systems on each end each with its own brake wheel.
Steve Hile
From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io [mailto:main@RealSTMFC.groups.io] On Behalf Of Edward
I built one of therm in 1994.
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Photo: PFE 14475
Photo: PFE 14475 Photo from the Wyoming State Archives: This is a Class R-30-11 reefer built by AC&F in 1917 or 1918. Anyone? Thanks. Bob Chaparro Hemet, CA
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Re: Quality Craft kit question
I built one of therm in 1994.
I also have a 1953 edition of Car Builders Cyclopedia, which has a photo of a C&O well hole flat built by the Greenville Steel Car Co. and used it for a reference. It shows a train line just under the top coaming of the well hole only, but there is only one photo, with the "A" end of the car facing right. At the time I questioned the two train lines and tried to find a piping diagram for the double brake (an AB set for each truck) freight car, but did not find one. So I made up some piping diagrams to justify two train lines (using piping diagrams in same Car Builders issue). None worked out logically. In buliding my model, I put on just one train line, for the side the Car Builders Cyclopedia photo showed. If ever a photo comes up showing the "B" end of that same car on the right side end with a train line, then I'll add one. Ed Bommer
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Re: CB&Q box car
Excellent work, as usual, Clark!
Thanks!
From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of "Clark Propst via groups.io" <cepropst@...>
Yesterday I finished decaling this Speedwitch kit. I Dullcoted it with a brown tint and weathered with Pan Pastels and Prismacolor pencils this morning. I used the number that was easiest. I wonder how many more 15813s there are out there ‘ ))
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CB&Q box car
Clark Propst
Yesterday I finished decaling this Speedwitch kit. I Dullcoted it with a brown tint and weathered with Pan Pastels and Prismacolor pencils this morning. I used the number that was easiest. I wonder how many more 15813s there are out there ‘ ))
Clark
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Re: Great Northern Caboose Red?
Ray Hutchison
Might depend on what era you are modeling...
Early cabeese likely were darker red-brown (mineral red?) similar to boxcars... although one cannot tell color from b/w photographs, there is little/no lighter/darker difference between caboose and freight cars in (for example) the Wellington photographs. My conjecture is that the familiar GN red came about later... mid-later 1920s when the (facing) goat emblem was first introduced? (rabbit hole)
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Quality Craft kit question
Alexander Schneider Jr
I am puzzled by something in the instructions for my Quality Craft kit for a NYC / C&O well car. "Place the train line on both sides of the car as this car had a double brake system."
Why is a second train line needed?
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