Date   

Re: More Albrecht photos

Bruce Smith
 

Dave,

I've been ruminating on this email for a few days... and here are my thoughts.

1) Weather everything.  Even a brand new car gets a little soot on the roof and road grime on the trucks and underbody.
2) "Fleet" weathering approaches depend on the car type, but generate large numbers of cars quickly
tank cars - lighten black cars and darken light cars with an overall spray grimy black or tarnished black (fades lettering too) - then add car specific levels of dome region weathering, journal oil stripes etc...
flat cars - lightly weathered sides with an overspray of grunge, weather wood and steel decks appropriately.
boxcars - soot on roof, grunge on trucks (mix up colors from grey (ballast) to mud to redder dirt). Dirt on sides.
hoppers - coal dust inside and out, road grime on trucks.
3) Vary the heaviness of the fleet weathering for fleet variety
4) Vary the material, technique and color of the fleet weathering - sometimes I do a roof with black chalk, other times with spray.  Sometime I uses oversprays on a car side, sometimes chalk, sometimes washes that are then removed with a cotton swab. Don't do everything the same.
5) Weather say 5-10% with signature weathering, based on a photograph.  Rust spots, destroyed paint etc.
6) Think about the amount  and type of weathering versus the car's history.  What road is it from?  Georgia?  Add some region specific weathering to the trucks and underside.
7) A car's age may not be the biggest clue to its weathering.  A 10 year old car may jut have been repainted, while a 5 year old car may have 5 years of very tough wear and tear.  Rationalize the weathering.  "This 20 year old car has the new paint scheme so it must have been repainted within 2 years whereas its mate has the old scheme... and should be much dirtier."
8) Have fun!

Regards
Bruce
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Jan 19, 2014, at 12:52 AM, <devans1@...>
 <devans1@...> wrote:

Richard,


I missed that era, but want to model it, and I believe the Jack Delano photos, to include the one at the banner for this group, are some of the best to use as a weathering reference for WWII. They cover a LOT of cars, and some photos are outside the Chicago area - I think all of the cars in the Belan, NM photo would be considered "dead flat", even in bright sun with glare present.

The yard photos in the Chicago area provide a very large sample set of cars that cover most roads - and to me the striking thing in those photos is the 1 out of 50 to 1 out of 100 fresh paint jobs - those cars really pop out, something I think should be modeled, although many might view such cars as "you forgot to weather one..."

The lesson for me is the modest amount of variability for each car - diagonal braces and some vertical steel seams do show some highlighting, but each car has a more uniform look than one of those - bright streak here - big rust spot there weathering jobs. Roofs are a different matter. one challenge is the variation in individual boards on wood sheathing for some box cars - that will be tough to capture.

Beside fresh paint jobs popping out of large collections of cars, I think the biggest variability I have observed is in some of Delano's ore dock pictures - specifically the insides of hoppers. Plus there are hoppers (not the black ones) that have darkened areas on the exterior from attempts to thaw the loads with heat sources - seems to "cook" the pigments of the era.

Bruce S. and I discussed this at CB, and it appears the colors in Delano's photos, in medium to bright natural light on Kodachrome, are probably pretty accurate - there are some cabooses being repainted in a few photos that will convince you there is plenty of red, and messing with the colors on the ore boat photos will make a mess of the life-saver rings and ships running lights. I have tried to find some "reasonable" color adjustments of the Delano photos, and have never been successful. For WWII FC colors, I think the Delano photos may be the "gold standard".

And having the hi-res versions in the LOC is a big bonus.

Your thoughts? I would like to come up with a fleet encompassing weathering plan before actually weathering my freight car fleet. I am concerned that different weathering styles on one WWII layout will look bad.

Dave Evans


Emil Albrecht Photos

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

As I am sure as with many on this list I am captivated by the Emil Albrecht photo collection.
One of our list members has been very gracious in helping me get some prints from these photos.
Everytime I turn around there is another segment of these photos. I do not want to burden
my benefactor but would like to know how to access the complest collection.

Thanks for any help.

Bill Pardie


For Sale HO Resin Kits: Funaro & Camerlengo, Westerfield

erict1361@...
 

FOR SALE: I have the following HO Scale Resin kits For Sale, Clearing out some of the duplicate kits I have. All New in the Box and Complete with All Parts, Less Trucks & Couplers.


 

F&C 7025 B&O M15K One Piece Body, Wagon top Box car, Some parts neatly pre-trimed,  Decals were cut ( I needed a re weigh date and Capcity decal for another B&O model) But the Decals are Now complete, I replaced the used Re-Weigh date and Capacity decal.$20.00

 

F&C 5093 NEW HAVEN 36’ Rebuilt Boxcar with Youngstown Door and Dreadnaught Ends, One Piece Body. I am Including Both the Standard and Bill Board Lettering Decals from Kit 5095. $22.00

 

F&C 6005 B&M XM-1 with Reverse Creco Door, Flat Kit.  $17.00

 

Westerfield 7502 PRR XL Camp/MOW Material car.

 Original Crossville TN issue. $30.00

 

$3.50 Shipping Each, $5.00 for Two Kits, $7.00 for Three or More.

 

Please Contact me Off List:  Eric Thur, Yardley PA

erict1361@...


Re: Rapido Meat Reefers

Edward
 

Armour, and Wilson meat reefers sometimes show up in photos of B&O freight trains. I've not noted any Swift reefers on the B&O, though. But that just may be the chance of a Swift car not showing in a train being photographed at the time.

Ed Bommer


Bulletproof Decals. Was Re: Solvaset

Anspach Denny <danspachmd@...>
 

H-mmm.  Let's see….   Two very credible, and very diplomatic listers -Schuyler and Bill- respectively report that two  identical decals fail to settle down when using Solvaset, and this initiates a discussion blaming Solvaset/aging/impotence, etc. as the cause, instead of simply considering the most likely proposition:  the decals in question are printed on faulty decal film!

Now, reading the number of posts on this subject, I perceive only conjecture, and no hard evidence as yet that Solvaset deteriorates a whit over time. The described chemical makeup is unfamiliar to me, and I have no idea at all whether one, many, or all of the ingredients are volatile; and if when they wick off, the actual remaining concentration of the remaining fluid is less, the same, or more effective than the original.

As for me, I have used Solvaset since the early fifties, and am on my third bottle (previous bottles  -with their glass-stick applicators- are used for other things).  I have never, ever noticed undue evaporation, or change in effectiveness (I have always kept a tight lid!).  However, like other listers so reporting, these days I routinely and preferentially use Microsol and Microset, saving the big gun- Solvaset- as the last resort to settle down stubborn decals, both old and new.

I also freely use a freshly-sharpened razor blade  (Arkansas stone)  to settle already-dried decals, old and new, thick or thin, into seams, wood, styrene, resin, etc. Only then do I apply Solvaset. The result can be sheer magic, especially so when one the result turns out to be quite beyond expectations!

Denny






Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento

Please make note of my new eMail address.


Re: Rapido Meat Reefers

jdcellarmod@...
 

Hi All,

 

Which reefer if any traveled the roads of the B&O, C&O and the Western Maryland? Thank you in advance.

 

Jeff Drennan

 


new page

Bill Lane
 

I have just finished my new page on building my Seaboard flat car.  http://www.lanestrains.com/Seaboard_Flatcar.htm Please give it a look.

 

Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1987

See my finished models at:
http://www.lanestrains.com
Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

 

See my layout progress at:

http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm

Custom Train Parts Design
http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls 

***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!
http://www.prrths.com
http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf

Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
It's FREE to join! http://www.prslhs.com 
Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL

 


Re: [EXTERNAL] PRR/PCo built dates (UNCLASSIFIED)

Gatwood, Elden J SAD
 

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE

Eric;

We did that for the flat cars and gons we researched for our books on those subjects, but have not yet done so for the remaining types and classes. That being said, there are lots of as-built photos that provide that information.

Elden Gatwood

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Eric Neubauer
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 11:32 AM
To: STMFC
Subject: [EXTERNAL] [STMFC] PRR/PCo built dates



Has anyone extracted month-year built for any PRR/PCo freight cars from the ledgers at the PA State Archives? I'd like to be more specific about renumberings through the 'teens into the twenties and this seems to be the best route to take since I have the month-year built for cars with pre 1905 numbers and also the railroads that were renumbered later like VRR and GR&I.

Eric N.



Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE


Re: Army troop cars in transit

caboose9792@aol.com <caboose9792@...>
 

Atleat the last 3 cars i reacall in goverment service, ex kitchen cars assined as gurd cars, had lost there organal trucks but thats at topic for another group.

mark rickert
Sent with Verizon Mobile Email

---Original Message---
From: STMFC@...
Sent: 1/20/2014 8:27 am
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Army troop cars in transit

Did the "F eds" remove any of the high-speed trucks? . . . . or were they as is?  Al Kresse


Re: Army troop cars in transit

caboose9792@aol.com <caboose9792@...>
 

Was (is?) there an accounting for the troop sleepers and kittchen cars by the railfan community?

mark rickert
Sent with Verizon Mobile Email

---Original Message---
From: STMFC@...
Sent: 1/20/2014 9:44 am
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Army troop cars in transit

Of course the Toole Army Depot was active and probably then a marshalling point for the military rail service equipment. So, this could be a movement of equipment between installations. Were the cars going to Alaska, they would probably have been sent to Pocatello directly, for movement over the OSL to Seattle.At least that's my take of it at least.Michael SeitzMissoula MT---This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.http://www.avast.com____________________________________________________________Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2


Re: Solvaset

Lee Thwaits
 

Since I started using Microscale Micro sol & Micro set I have had no problem with decals settling into grooves nor leaving blush under large heralds. I recently bought a bottle of Solvaset to try after several years of not using it and was very dissatisfied with the results and ending up scrapping the decals. These are not Champ decals.

Lee Thwaits


Santa Fe Freight Weighbills

John Barry
 

I am seeking images of ATSF Freight Waybills.  Thanks to Steve Sandifer and others, we have examples of Livestock versions, empty car cards, meat cards and others, but not the Forms 1826 and 1827 Regular for each of the Santa Fe lines.  There would have been separate waybills for ATSF, ATSF Coast Lines, Panhandle & Santa Fe, and Gulf, Colorado & Santa Fe as require for interline billing.  I have images of a number of Form 18 Reg, but as I subsequently discovered, that is the bill of lading that shows ownership of the goods, and not the Waybill that documented the travels of the loaded cars.  I am especially interested in copies from the WWII era that I'm modeling, but I really would like to see ANY ATSF waybills.

I can be reached off list at NorthBayLines at ATT dot Net 
 
John Barry




ATSF North Bay Lines
Golden Gates & Fast Freights




707-490-9696


3450 Palmer Drive, Suite 4224
Cameron Park, CA 95682


Re: Solvaset

John Sykes III
 

Solvaset changed their formulation some time back.  It use to be a solution of Butyl Cellosolve in water (2-botoxy ethanol) the same as MicroSol and Champ Decal Set (different concentrations, same chemical), but changed to a methoxy-2-propanol/methoxy-1-propanol mixture (I think the mixture is a result of the chemical process to make that solvent).  There may be a touch of isopropyl alcohol in all of these products to act as a wetting agent, but I am not sure of that.


I do not know how the new Solvaset compares to the old Solvaset or the Champ (which use to be comparable to the old Solvaset), but they are all definitely stronger than the MicroSol.


-- John


Re: More Albrecht photos

midrly
 

Consider the amount of dust thrown on a car at 80 MPH or better in a passenger train.  Soot from the loco immediately ahead of these cars.  Plain bearing journal boxes threw off copious quantities of oil that had been wicked out of the box by the journals on to the wheel faces.  Heavy braking approaching a passenger station stop would heat the wheel plates up and start to burn that oil on the wheel faces.  Lots of smoke!  Working steam or power braking against brake applications (to prevent slack run-in shaking up the passengers and RPO staff) would require more braking effort==hotter wheels.  


Cast iron brake shoes that all rolling stock was fitted with in the STMFC era would throw off sparks to add to the effect.  Many express reefers and express box cars would be used in local passenger trains making multiple stops, and braking heavily to keep up to a tight schedule when station work was taken into account--there are few photos of the "Limiteds" with much head-end traffic.  Certainly the Super Chief, Broadway Limited, or 20th Century did not handle head end traffic.  And car washing machines did not see many of these cars.


All add up to head-end cars dirtying very quickly.


Steve Lucas.  


Re: Solvaset

Bruce Smith
 

I will second Chuck's comment.  When I finally ordered a new bottle, it was WAAAAY more aggressive.  I had to water it down a bit to use !  So Schuyler, when you get that new bottle, exercise caution using it.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

From: STMFC@... [STMFC@...] on behalf of Charles Peck [lnnrr152@...]
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:58 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset



Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first, leaving a weaker solution with age. 
Chuck Peck


Paging Bill Hanley

Jason Greene
 

Please contact me off list.
 
Jason Greene


Re: Solvaset

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Ah, then the solution (no puns intended) is likely to get a new bottle . . .

Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 5:58 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset





Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first,
leaving a weaker solution with age.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 5:12 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:



Chuck, are you saying that Solvaset weakens with age? If so, that is likely
the issue I'm having as I've had this bottle for a couple of decades . . .



Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of

Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:46 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset



If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small
portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with

the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add
another portion of new until you get a strength

that works.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

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Re: Solvaset

destorzek@...
 

IF it's last years shake 'n take car, the grooves are some of the finest in HO scale, .005" wide and .0025" deep... hardly the Grand Canyon. And, unlike dealing with the old Northeastern scribed wood of yesteryear, where the grooves were so deep that the cut decal is lost in the shadow, these grooves are shallow enough that the background carside color will show through the slits.

Sounds like the decals came from the Bulletproof Decal Co.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Solvaset

Jack Burgess <jack@...>
 

<I've been >bathing< the decal in question with Solvaset for a few days,

<and it resists most everything.  I'm going to let things dry out and

<then do one more application and settle for what I get then.

<

<

<

<Schuyler

If you are applying Solvaset and then letting the decal dry for a day and adding another application of Solvaset, I don't think that is going to work. To conform to rivets, etc., the decal needs to actually expand a little (which I think is the main purpose of the decal solvent/solution) and then contract as it dries. But if the decal film is "thick" or the groves in the siding are too wide, it won't work. But if you let the decal dry and then cut through the decal film and then add another coat of Solvaset, the decal should be able to conform to the groves since it doesn't need to expand...

Jack Burgess


Re: Solvaset

Charles Peck
 

Yes, there are volatiles in Solvaset that evaporate, most active first, leaving a weaker solution with age. 
Chuck Peck


On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 5:12 PM, Schuyler Larrabee <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:
 

Chuck, are you saying that Solvaset weakens with age? If so, that is likely
the issue I'm having as I've had this bottle for a couple of decades . . .



Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Charles Peck
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:46 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Solvaset


If you don't wish to try slitting the film, you could separate a small
portion of new Solvaset and dilute it 50/50 with

the old weaker Solvaset and try that mixture. If not quite right, add
another portion of new until you get a strength

that works.

Chuck Peck

On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 4:39 PM, Schuyler Larrabee
<schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

Oh, perhaps. Could be. Maybe. J

Schuyler

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
William Darnaby
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 4:16 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: RE: [STMFC] Solvaset

This wouldn't be a certain shake and take reefer would it? Just curious.

Bill Darnaby

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Schuyler Larrabee
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2014 1:27 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Solvaset

I have an OLD bottle of Solvaset, having always preferred Champ's Decal-set.
But Solvaset's always had the rep of being able to really settle decals into
scribing or whatever.

This bottle seems to be not so effective as all that. I'll buy a new bottle
soon, but I noticed that the cap of this bottle has some whitish solid (more
or less) "stuff" accumulated in it. Standing the bottle on the cap
overnight and shaking it (not at the same time, of course!) doesn't seem to
make it dissolve. Any thoughts about this:

I have a decal on the model which is VERY resistant to settling into the
scribing on the model. VERY!

Schuyler

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