Date   

Re: Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

Greg Martin
 

Tim,
 
I thought the worst stuff I have ever tried to get to strip was ATLAS locomotive paints and it did the trick, well worth the buck to experiment with.
 
If you recall Jim and I had mentioned his NH ACLO Model EP  4 or 5 or whatever that double ended ALCO looking nose units was had yellowed over time with the FUTURE as a clear finish coat. Well we took that beast and pit in this thinking that it might only remove the FUTURE or the FUTURE and the Decals and leave the SCALE COAT 1 (which he baked on in my mothers kitchen man was she mad). Well to our surprise it striped it to bare brass... I just keep throwing things in even the dirty used solution and it just keeps stripping. I had a Devil of a time stripping a couple Train Miniature X29's now that was some tough paint it dais take a couple day to get it off.
 
I have a couple of Front Range cars that are painted in the garage I will have to strip this weekend as an experiment, what the heck I am still working on a bucks worth of the stuff.
 
Greg Martin
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 9/5/2013 8:00:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, timboconnor@... writes:
 
Greg

I'd never heard of this store before, but I just found out there's one just a couple miles from here. I think I'll check this stuff out.

The most un strippable models so far in my experience were some of the old Front Range stuff...

Tim O'


Re: Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

Greg Martin
 

Sam
 
Less time would have work as well, I leave mine overnight. But as my good friend Jim Evans had  mentioned it doesn't work on all paints but we have only found one company that we can say that about.
 
I believe it is worth the buck to experiment.  Craig Zeni actually gave me the idea.
 
Greg Martin  
 
Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean
 

In a message dated 9/5/2013 5:33:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, monon@... writes:
 

I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper.  I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail.  After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all.  Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result.  16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds



 


Re: Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

Tim O'Connor
 

Greg

I'd never heard of this store before, but I just found out there's
one just a couple miles from here. I think I'll check this stuff out.

The most unstrippable models so far in my experience were some of the
old Front Range stuff...

Tim O'

At 9/5/2013 08:33 PM Thursday, you wrote:


I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper. I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail. After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all. Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result. 16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds


--- In stmfc@..., <tgregmrtn@...> wrote:

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin


Re: Speedwitch web site

rob.mclear3@...
 

Hi Ted


Great to see you back up and running as the decals come on line I will be ordering quite a few, need the Caswells in particular.   Thanks for the info and all the very best of luck to you with the revamped venture.


Regards mate

Rob McLear

Kingaroy Australia. 



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta


Re: Speedwitch web site

Clive Riley
 

Welcome back Ted – you’ve been missed!!

 

All the best – Clive Riley.

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of speedwitchmedia@...
Sent: Thursday, 5 September 2013 11:47 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Speedwitch web site

 

 

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta


Re: outstanding article on freight cars

Bill Schneider
 

At the risk of jumping in on a “me too” post… Me too!



In fact, there are two freight car articles in a row if you consider the continuing DL&W/C&IM caboose series.



In the spirit of equal coverage, I could also point out that there are no fewer than ten pages in another monthly publication devoted to techniques to install couplers on said freight cars…..



Bill Schneider





From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of westerfieldalfred@...
Sent: Thursday, September 5, 2013 3:02 PM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: Re: [STMFC] outstanding article on freight cars





Tony – I agree. I thought it was the best article of its type in decades. – Al Westerfield



From: Tony Thompson <mailto:tony@...>

Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:13 PM

To: STMFC@...

Subject: [STMFC] outstanding article on freight cars





I've sent the following message to Railroad Model Craftsman:

Congratulations to author Mike Evans and to editor Chris D'Amato for the outstanding article on the tank car to covered hopper conversion in the September issue. It is clearly described, beautifully illustrated, and continues the RMC tradition of serious articles on freight car modeling. Great stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: ADMIN: Yahoogroup Changes

Paul Hillman
 

Jeff, I found a Yahoo phone # but it said "Too busy to answer your call" and hung up. For me, this is quite a nice Yahoo-mess that they've gotten me/ (us) into to.

 

Paul Hillman


--- In stmfc@..., <chris_hillman@...> wrote:

Thanks Jeff, but I tried all of that. The "Purple" buttons seem quite logical in their suggested functions but they don't fully work.  The "New Topic" window doesn't provide any space to type a message, but allows a "Topic" input .

 

I did the photo process as you said, but it doesn't work.

 

I of course went to YAHOO "Help" but coudn't find a solution, that's why I wrote to this group.

 

Does YAHOO have a phone number? I can't find one.

 

Thanks, Paul Hillman



--- In stmfc@..., <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

Paul,


To create a new message with a new topic (new subject), click the purple "New Topic" button.


To upload a photo, you must know one new rule: All photos MUST be in an album.  This is probably a good idea, as it keeps the photos a little more organized.  To upload a photo to an existing album, first find and click on that album, then click the purple button "+ Add Photos".  To create a new album (and then put pictures in it), click the purple button "+ New Album".


In general, the purple buttons are the ones you want to pay attention to.


Regards,


-Jeff Aley

Deputy Moderator, STMFC




--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

 

I saw the recent discussions here about the new Yahoo formats, but hadn't tried to post anything in the new system. Then I tried to post some photos to 2 different groups and I can't do it. I also couldn't post a new message to this group but was able to get thru as a reply to an existing post.
 
I click on "Photos" and it connects to the albums. Then I click on an album and it goes into the album. Then I click on "Add Photos" and a window comes up saying, "New Album", which I don't want to do or add. Then when I click on the "Cancel" it won't exit the screen, locks up the whole page, and I can only get outta there by clicking back into "Home" or "Mail" from my top-of-screen "Address Bar".
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with my computer (Windows 7). Am I doing something wrong or is YAHOO goofing-up? (Dumb question???)
 
Also, Mike Brock, you must be quite ecstatic that the UP Big Boy 4014 is going to run again. I've seen the 4-6-6-4 running thru here in Houston, TX. Can't wait to see the Big Boy come thru here 500 feet from my house.
 
Thanks for any help, Paul Hillman


Re: ADMIN: Yahoogroup Changes

Paul Hillman
 

Thanks Jeff, but I tried all of that. The "Purple" buttons seem quite logical in their suggested functions but they don't fully work.  The "New Topic" window doesn't provide any space to type a message, but allows a "Topic" input.

 

I did the photo process as you said, but it doesn't work.

 

I of course went to YAHOO "Help" but coudn't find a solution, that's why I wrote to this group.

 

Does YAHOO have a phone number? I can't find one.

 

Thanks, Paul Hillman


--- In stmfc@..., <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

Paul,


To create a new message with a new topic (new subject), click the purple "New Topic" button.


To upload a photo, you must know one new rule: All photos MUST be in an album.  This is probably a good idea, as it keeps the photos a little more organized.  To upload a photo to an existing album, first find and click on that album, then click the purple button "+ Add Photos".  To create a new album (and then put pictures in it), click the purple button "+ New Album".


In general, the purple buttons are the ones you want to pay attention to.


Regards,


-Jeff Aley

Deputy Moderator, STMFC




--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

 

I saw the recent discussions here about the new Yahoo formats, but hadn't tried to post anything in the new system. Then I tried to post some photos to 2 different groups and I can't do it. I also couldn't post a new message to this group but was able to get thru as a reply to an existing post.
 
I click on "Photos" and it connects to the albums. Then I click on an album and it goes into the album. Then I click on "Add Photos" and a window comes up saying, "New Album", which I don't want to do or add. Then when I click on the "Cancel" it won't exit the screen, locks up the whole page, and I can only get outta there by clicking back into "Home" or "Mail" from my top-of-screen "Address Bar".
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with my computer (Windows 7). Am I doing something wrong or is YAHOO goofing-up? (Dumb question???)
 
Also, Mike Brock, you must be quite ecstatic that the UP Big Boy 4014 is going to run again. I've seen the 4-6-6-4 running thru here in Houston, TX. Can't wait to see the Big Boy come thru here 500 feet from my house.
 
Thanks for any help, Paul Hillman


Re: Stripping Testors enamel from Sylvan resin

Sam Reynolds
 

I realize that the cars I tested the Dollar Store product on aren't representative of "Steam Era Freight Cars", but I gave LA's Totally AWESOME a try on a Robins Rails 60' auto parts boxcar and a Walthers 2-bay PS-3 hopper.  I had made numerous attempts to strip the paint from these cars using other products, but to no avail.  After letting the cars soak in LA's Totally AWESOME for 4 days the paint came off of the cars with no problem at all.  Not sure yet if less time would have yielded the same result.  16 PS-3 hoppers are now awaiting their time in the soak tank in order to be painted and decaled for the L&N.


Sam Reynolds



--- In stmfc@..., <tgregmrtn@...> wrote:

Guys,

I have changed over to a product I buy at the DOLLAR TREE. IT is called
LA's Totally AWESONE. It is marketed as and All purpose concentrated cleaner
*de greaser *Spot removers. No Acid No Ammonia No bleach NON flammable.

I have used it on all kinds of plastic and on brass and all kinds of
paint including Scale Coat 1 and Testors with good success.

I HAVE TRIED IT ON RESIN. So try it on a small area or piece. There is no
chemical information on the bottle. I use it full strength and I have
strained it and poured it back into another bottle and used the same to strip
again with success. It turns the paint into liquid with little or no solid
left. The toughest strip I have had is an ATKA GP7 in CNW Green and Yellow and
this stuff was thick.

The cost is $1.00 for a 32 oz. bottle.

I have not affiliation with this company.

Thanks,

Greg Martin

Eventually all things merge into one and a river runs through it.
Norman Maclean


In a message dated 9/1/2013 8:44:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
1payne1@... writes:




I know we've gone over stripping umpteen times... but I need some specific
advice: I painted a Sylvan resin kit with some Testors enamel, but the
application was too thick. How do I strip it and start over, without damaging
the resin? What can strip the enamel without ruining whatever resin
Sylvan is using? I have alcohol available, brake fluid too (old school!), but
don't have ELO or Chameleon.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Speedwitch web site

Scott
 

That's cool.  Are you going to do the Wabash car again?  Always regretted not getting one.



Scott McDonald 



--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

I have finally managed to get a web site back up and running. It took a little longer than expected, but in the many years since I last did any web work, things have changed quite a bit (for the better.) I had to start from scratch to create it, but it's a lot easier to create a site than it used to be. That said, here are a few things of note:

 

The address is now www.speedwitchmedia.com

 

The only thing "active" are some of the decal sets. By this weekend I expect to have all of the decal and book pages live with the model kit pages to follow.

 

There is a message on the home page with information about the next projects (besides some decals that will be out this year.) I will add information about a new kit soon, too.

 

Thanks for everybody's patience.

 

Cheers,

Ted Culotta


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

Not in my experience.
Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

Pierre,

I thought that other folks stated that brake fluid and Scalecoat stripper would ruin a resin model. Not so?

Regards,

-Jeff


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Pierre
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 9:29 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits



I've had good success with 2 different products;
Brake fluid.
I've yet to have brake fluid ruin a plastic model. I have found though that modern brake fluid has a shelf life for this usage.
Scalecoat paint and decal remover.
Great stuff! It works well on pad printed lettering and home applied paint jobs.

Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>, "Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@<mailto:Jeff.A.Aley@>> wrote:

Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts? Is grit-blasting the only way?

Regards,

-Jeff


From: STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...> [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of RUTLANDRS@
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: STMFC@
Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits


Modelling tips for resin kits<http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint>

Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
Chuck Hladik


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Aley, Jeff A
 

Pierre,

 

               I thought that other folks stated that brake fluid and Scalecoat stripper would ruin a resin model.  Not so?

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Pierre
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 9:29 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 

 

I've had good success with 2 different products;
Brake fluid.
I've yet to have brake fluid ruin a plastic model. I have found though that modern brake fluid has a shelf life for this usage.
Scalecoat paint and decal remover.
Great stuff! It works well on pad printed lettering and home applied paint jobs.

Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts? Is grit-blasting the only way?
>
> Regards,
>
> -Jeff
>
>
> From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of RUTLANDRS@...
> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 5:23 AM
> To: STMFC@...
> Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits
>
>
> Modelling tips for resin kits<http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint>
>
> Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
> Chuck Hladik
>


Re: outstanding article on freight cars

 

Tony – I agree.  I thought it was the best article of its type in decades. – Al Westerfield
 

Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:13 PM
Subject: [STMFC] outstanding article on freight cars
 
 

I've sent the following message to Railroad Model Craftsman:

Congratulations to author Mike Evans and to editor Chris D'Amato for the outstanding article on the tank car to covered hopper conversion in the September issue. It is clearly described, beautifully illustrated, and continues the RMC tradition of serious articles on freight car modeling. Great stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: outstanding article on freight cars

Armand Premo
 

Ditto,Armand Premo

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 2:13 PM
Subject: [STMFC] outstanding article on freight cars

 

I've sent the following message to Railroad Model Craftsman:

Congratulations to author Mike Evans and to editor Chris D'Amato for the outstanding article on the tank car to covered hopper conversion in the September issue. It is clearly described, beautifully illustrated, and continues the RMC tradition of serious articles on freight car modeling. Great stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


outstanding article on freight cars

Tony Thompson
 

I've sent the following message to Railroad Model Craftsman:

Congratulations to author Mike Evans and to editor Chris D'Amato for the outstanding article on the tank car to covered hopper conversion in the September issue. It is clearly described, beautifully illustrated, and continues the RMC tradition of serious articles on freight car modeling. Great stuff! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@...
Publishers of books on railroad history


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Don <riverman_vt@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts? Is grit-blasting the only way?

That's a darn good question, Jeff. I've never tried to strip a model completed through the use of both materials. Having recently found a pair of proper sized replacement gloves for my North Coast Grit Blaster, however, it is now up and running again and is the first thing
I would try. I've had the grit blaster for nearly twenty years now if not that long and, though the cost back then seems to have been quite a bit higher than what I see them being sold for now it was at least set up for model work when it arrived rather than requiring some adaptation as many of those now offered seem to require. Thus I feel it has been a very worth while investment. I've stripped and renewed a lot of older and poorly painted brass models with it and have always been pleased with how much better some otherwise quite useful model that arrived looking rather poorly looked and ran after a little cleaning, tuning and a new paint job. I've also found to to be very good on plastic but if your grit is new it is important to keep your air pressure down for plastic until yiou see how things go.

Cordially, Don Valentine


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Pierre <pierre.oliver@...>
 

I've had good success with 2 different products;
Brake fluid.
I've yet to have brake fluid ruin a plastic model. I have found though that modern brake fluid has a shelf life for this usage.
Scalecoat paint and decal remover.
Great stuff! It works well on pad printed lettering and home applied paint jobs.

Pierre Oliver

--- In STMFC@..., "Aley, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Aley@...> wrote:

Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts? Is grit-blasting the only way?

Regards,

-Jeff


From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of RUTLANDRS@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits


Modelling tips for resin kits<http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm#StrippingPaint>

Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.
Chuck Hladik


Re: Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

Aley, Jeff A
 

Has anyone figured out a way to strip a resin kit that contains BOTH resin AND styrene parts?  Is grit-blasting the only way?

 

Regards,

 

-Jeff

 

 

From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of RUTLANDRS@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Check out Modelling tips for resin kits

 

 

 

Once more, and, straight from the horse's mouth, the Sylvan web site.

Chuck Hladik


Re: SP C-30-1 Caboose Handrails Colour

Jim Betz
 

Dave,

The following may help you to decide - and hopefully
will make the process a lot easier to do and at the same
time end up with freight cars you like more.

I have a "standard practice" that includes touching all of
the handrails, grabs, corner brackets, drop steps, brake
wheels, couplers, cut levers, etc., etc., etc. with a brush
with "whatever shade of 'Tuscan' I happen to mix up that
day". I don't try to 'cover' them ... just a dab/stroke/run
the brush over it here and there.
I normally start with about 4 to 1 Tuscan to some shade
of Mineral Red/any shade of burnt umber/burnt sienna/
red umber etc. ... but I don't pay a lot of attention to the
number of drops of each color and let whatever I can
reach easiest be as much my method as anything else.
And I will frequently add a couple of drops of grey or black
or white or a mustardy yellow (CNW or reefer yellow). I do
not have a 'formula' that I use every time ... other
than starting with some shade of "tuscan".

But the key point is that I do -not- want it to match the
body color. I want it to be "a few shades different".

When you do this - the result is a handrail/grab that looks
like the right color ... but it "stands out from the body".

Background - most of the time when you look at a real
freight car there is a highlight+shadow effect going on (yes,
even when it isn't in full sun ... *G*). The details tend to be
more noticeable than any factory paint car -model- that
you see on any layout any where. To understand what I
mean go fish out any unweathered Kadee box car you
have and hold it up next to your computer monitor that
is on a color picture of a real 'tuscan' box car.
Unless you use extremely high quantities of light on your
layout you just don't get those shadows. And even if the
shadow is there ... the size of the grabs/handrails/etc. are
so small that our eyes don't pick them up.

So my "just a couple of shades off of the body" ... simulates
the "shadows" - and my goal of having the detail part look
correct - but "pop out" without being too big a difference
is achieved.

When trying to add some 'rust' to detail colors other than
freight car red ... I like to thin the paint out until it flows
(runs) into the corners ...
- Jim Betz

P.S. I like to go back after doing the detail weathering and
shoot what I refer to as "blending coats" of some
shade of grimy black, mud, etc.
I have found that since I started doing the brush
detail weathering (which includes washes, etc.) that
I use a LOT less paint during this blending process.


Re: ADMIN: Yahoogroup Changes

Aley, Jeff A
 

Paul,


To create a new message with a new topic (new subject), click the purple "New Topic" button.


To upload a photo, you must know one new rule: All photos MUST be in an album.  This is probably a good idea, as it keeps the photos a little more organized.  To upload a photo to an existing album, first find and click on that album, then click the purple button "+ Add Photos".  To create a new album (and then put pictures in it), click the purple button "+ New Album".


In general, the purple buttons are the ones you want to pay attention to.


Regards,


-Jeff Aley

Deputy Moderator, STMFC




--- In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote:

 

I saw the recent discussions here about the new Yahoo formats, but hadn't tried to post anything in the new system. Then I tried to post some photos to 2 different groups and I can't do it. I also couldn't post a new message to this group but was able to get thru as a reply to an existing post.
 
I click on "Photos" and it connects to the albums. Then I click on an album and it goes into the album. Then I click on "Add Photos" and a window comes up saying, "New Album", which I don't want to do or add. Then when I click on the "Cancel" it won't exit the screen, locks up the whole page, and I can only get outta there by clicking back into "Home" or "Mail" from my top-of-screen "Address Bar".
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with my computer (Windows 7). Am I doing something wrong or is YAHOO goofing-up? (Dumb question???)
 
Also, Mike Brock, you must be quite ecstatic that the UP Big Boy 4014 is going to run again. I've seen the 4-6-6-4 running thru here in Houston, TX. Can't wait to see the Big Boy come thru here 500 feet from my house.
 
Thanks for any help, Paul Hillman

76521 - 76540 of 194716