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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Are there any available sources of decals? Ed Hawkins included a long list of Champ decals in his 1991 Railmodel Journal series, but Champ is gone.
On Oct 27, 2013, at 2:26 PM, Tony Thompson <tony@...> wrote:
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Charles Hladik
Ron,
IIRC, the notch in the sides between the hoppers is
either "closed", a solid side, or "oen" see thru to other side.
Chuck Hladik
In a message dated 10/27/2013 4:47:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ron.merrick@... writes:
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Re: Express Refrigerator Car
ROGER HINMAN
On Oct 26, 2013, at 2:39 PM, Richard Hendrickson <rhendrickson@...> wrote:
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Ron, I hear you and I have that TEE shirt as well. I'm convinced that is why they invented eBay. I also donated a lot of my older models to kids getting started and some clubs. When I worked I moved about every 3 to 4 years and I just got tired of packing and moving things that I realized I'd probably never use. That is tough on a pack rat like me.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 3:45 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@...> wrote:
Fenton Wells 5 Newberry Lane
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
mopacfirst
Yes, I totally concur about the wire grabs and handrails, as well as more-to-scale molded components. What I really meant was in regard to proportions, versions, ease of modification, and so forth. Lots of us have conundrums on account of newer, finer-scale models that appear when we have quite a few updated or re-detailed older models that are lacking in the fineness of detail because the state of the art keeps moving on. But the old ones aren't total recycle bait yet.
The closet keeps filling up..... Ron Merrick The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......<snip> It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails.
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Curt Fortenberry
I'm assembling an IM undec kit right now in fact. First one I've tried and I'm impressed really. Has all the wire parts pre bent including the brake system, and everything is going together just great. For an undec, it is truely a kit, nothing preassembled. Roof, end cages, hopper outlets, details, etc, all need to be added. Haven't really had any issues with the instructions, a couple of drill points on the brake system were missed, but if you've ever done that before you know what to drill and when. I can send a photo if you want.
Curt Fortenberry
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Ron, one more note regarding the IM cars. I totally agree with Tony Thompson's comments regarding the improvements from prior models of this car. I had them all and they went on eBay. At my age I'm not cutting, drilling and bending to add wire grabs to a hopper especially when I can buy a kit that has done it for me. I seem to get lazier the older I get.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 2:48 PM, O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:
Fenton Wells 5 Newberry Lane
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Ron,
I bought the undec kits from IM. Attached is a photo. They are not "snap together" construction but I managed to get it done. My mistake was getting Jerry Glow to do the Southern decals. I can't get any more decals so I am stuck with the 2 cars I did get decals for. Jerry also did the later round roof cars for the Southern as well and as that is too modern for me I didn't order them. Back to the subject. I really like the IM cars, to me they look right on. I lost some of the hatch rod holder pieces( due to my fat fingers) that go in the roof and called them and they sent me another sprue . One other thing is that if you are going to weather the slope sheet as on the prototype it did get wheel splatter I suggest you paint it and weather it prior to assemble. Tough to get in there after the car is complete. I had to use a small brush with chalk powder. On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 1:51 PM, mopacfirst <ron.merrick@...> wrote: ** -- Fenton Wells 5 Newberry Lane Pinehurst NC 28374 910-420-1144 srrfan1401@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: ACF 70-ton covered hopper
Tony Thompson
Ron Merrick wrote:
Ron, I would say the IM cars are a HUGE improvement over the older designs with their cast-on grab iron rows. Kato was a great improvement over the old E&B Valley kit when it came out, but neither it nor Bowser hold a candle to the IM model, IMO. If you spot two together, Kato and IM (yes, still have some Katos), I do not think you will say there aren't "any real differences" between them. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Athearn Blue Box boxcar -- prototype?
Tony Thompson
Alex Schneider wrote:
The brake gear problem is that it is reversed. A minimal correction is to cut off the brake parts and simply glue them in the same spot, but on the other side of the center sill. Now they are correctly aligned. Of course they are kind of crude, and you need brake rigging to be added. Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA 2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com (510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, tony@... Publishers of books on railroad history
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Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)
Ray Breyer
There seems to be a lot of confusion about the name, but I believe the correct >name is the "Sunday Creek Coal Co."Hi Bob, You're likely right on both counts. I whipped up this preliminary roster in a couple of hours in the dark of night! I'll look into the Sandy/Sunday issue when I get a chance. As for the roster, any time a reporting mark shows up, it'll get added! I'll later trace the origins of each. It's simpler to list them that way for a variety of reasons. Regards, Ray Breyer Elgin, IL
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Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)
Ray Breyer
C of Ga < The Central didn't have these.Thanks Todd; I'll scrub the CofG from the list. Ray Breyer Elgin, IL
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Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)
Ray Breyer
Thanks Earl! I'll add this information in to my data pile. Ray Breyer Elgin, IL
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ACF 70-ton covered hopper
mopacfirst
The RPCyc #27 is out, with the first of some articles on the ACF 70-ton covered hopper built prior to 1957. So I looked and I have some each Kato, Bowser and Intermountain. I even have some old MDCs somewhere, which for their era were not bad and the couplers didn't droop, unlike Athearn. And at least one E&B Valley.......
Just did a quick look, and it seems all three (Kato, Bowser, and IM) are currently available in some form. It's not obvious to me that there are any real differences between them, except the Intermountain with wire grabs and handrails. IM lists the open-side and the closed-side car as kits, but their site shows partially or completely assembled cars. Anybody bought some who can tell whether they are or are not kits? What's molded together -- the roof and sides, or the underbody / hoppers and sides? Looks like all of them have the Type 1 roof and hatch covers. I know there's a resin roof conversion coming, but have there ever been any injection-molded models with a different style roof? Anyone have experience with the Detail Associates hatch cover? Sorry, lot of questions. Thanks Ed, for provoking this much thought. Ron Merrick
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Re: Lead shot in flat cars
Hi,
Lead shot isn't perfectly round and doesn't roll as well as you expect it to do. I haven't tried it in a tube but my experience with 000 shot and a plastic funnel makes me doubt the tubing approach. But I will try it. Question - how do you load the tubing - put some of it in your palm and push the tubing into it? I have not seen -any- "swelling" of the lead due to the acid in the white glue. But the form of white glue I use is Krystal Klear (KK) and maybe it has less acid? I've been using KK as a "general purpose adhesive" for several years now. Sometimes I thin it with water and sometimes I just drop it off of a round toothpick. I live in San Jose - not a particularly humid climate but definitely not desert either. The KK never even absorbs enough moisture out of the air to soften. For me, one of the great things about using KK (or other forms of white glue) is that you can put a drop of water on it and set it aside and it will soften and let go (eventually - as in several hours). Yes, I agree that KK's drying/setting time is horribly long compared to most of the adhesives we use in this hobby ===> I've learned to live with that aspect. Another great thing about KK is that it forms a natural fillet and therefore greatly increases the strength of any 90-degree joint. Be careful to support the work correctly - the KK can 'suck' the 2 pieces towards each other as it dries. KK also forms a natural electrical insulator when dry - so it is particularly useful when installing #603 LEDs in a marker on a caboose. I like KK for doing work such as attaching cab shades to a painted diesel - where the fillet and the fact that it dries clear makes it especially valuable. It is also very useful when replacing the grabs/drop steps/ladders on an already painted freight car. KK is just one of the many adhesives I use - all the time. Try it, you may like it. I rarely use it for the purpose it is sold for (windows) ... but almost always use KK to attach clear plastic glazing. - Jim Betz
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Re: Santa Fe Bx-38 question
Richard Hendrickson
On Oct 27, 2013, at 5:22 AM, Rich C <rhcdmc@...> wrote:
Richard Hendrickson
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Re: Lead shot in flat cars
Jon Miller <atsfus@...>
On 10/27/2013 4:57 AM, Don Burn wrote:
Think about a tungsten sheet (they are available on Amazon), they weight 1.7 times lead. The only tungsten sheets I found on amazon were the photo kind. Very much different from the metal kind and very much cheaper. -- Jon Miller For me time stopped in 1941 Digitrax--Chief/Zephyr systems, JMRI User NMRA Life member #2623 Member SFRH&MS
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Re: Most needed car? (Seley hoopers)
rwitt_2000
Ray,
There seems to be a lot of confusion about the name, but I believe the correct name is the "Sunday Creek Coal Co." not the "Sandy Creek Coal Company". These cars were numbered into B&O series, but lettered for the Sunday Creek Coal Co. These "Seley" clones were assigned class N-11 by the B&O and the class was assigned to the hoppers for the Fairmont Coal Co. Also you maybe counting the cars twice. The one equipment diagram for the B&O class N-11 I have lists 1980 cars in the series 130020-131999 with the cars number 130020-131699 coming from the "Fairmont Coal Co. originally numbered 3000-4699, and car numbers 131700-131799 coming from "Sandy (sic) Creek Coal Co." numbered as at present (i.e. the same numbers). Hopefully this information will help clarify your rosters. Regards, Bob Witt
---In STMFC@..., <stmfc@...> wrote: C of Ga < The Central didn't have these. Todd Horton On Saturday, October 26, 2013 9:43 AM, Ray Breyer <rtbsvrr69@...> wrote:
>between the various roads that had them. Hi guys, I've been interested in Seley hoppers for a while, since like 36' double sheathed boxcars and all-wood gons, they're something that the average pre-Depression era modeler needs a few of. Aidrian's right though: in general, there were several different varieties of these hoppers running around, which makes marketing a model of them difficult. But there weren't ALL that many types. I need to do an in-depth examination of the car type, but just by looking at the data that I could find last night, they can be broken down into four general "types": D&H, N&W, Southern and SAL, The D&H and SAL cars seem to be unique to those roads, but in general, the N&W and Southern cars were copied by everyone else. Details and dimensions changed, but the overall "look" of the vast bulk of these cars mostly fall under those types. As a topic-stretcher, here's what I was able to come up with as a quick & dirty Seley hopper roster last night: AB&A - 250 (to ACL) B&O - 3000 B&M - 100 Berwind-White Coal Mining Co. - (unknown) C&O - (unknown) Coal & Coke Co. - 275 Cumberland & Pennsylvania - 1500 Deepwater - 500 (to Virginian) D&H - (unknown; thousands) Fairmont Coal Co - 1700 (to B&O) GB&W - 25 (from Virginian) Island Creek Coal Co. - 200 L&HR - 500 L&N - 250 M&O - (unknown; to GM&O) NC&StL - (unknown) Norfolk Southern - 50 NYO&W - 1350 N&W - (unknown; thousands) RI - 250 Sandy Creek Coal Co. - 300 SLSF - 500 SAL - 300 Southern - 4,600 (also AGS and CNO&TP) TStL&W - 45 (to NKP) And here's a few railroads thay MAY have had Seley-type hoppers, but which will require a bit more digging: Buffalo & Susquehanna C of Ga C&O GN These roads may well have had all wood cars that at a glance "kinda sorta" look like Seleys (by definition, a Seley hopper has to have steel channel outside bracing). Hope this helps, Ray Breyer Elgin, IL (as a personal preference, I'd be happy with styrene models of the modified D&H Seleys and with the N&W's HG or HH class cars. Those two have the best chance of selling to the Great Unwashed, and cover the largest groups of cars)
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NYC 40 ft. AAR 50 Ton Postwar Boxcar Questions
Nelson Moyer <ku0a@...>
I’m detailing two of the NYC 40 ft. AAR 50 ton postwar boxcars from Branchline kits. I’m a CB&Q modeler, and my knowledge of foreign road freight cars is minimal at best. Research has revealed the following:
40 ft. AAR 50 Ton Boxcar Series 165000-165999 Lot 763-B built April 1948 by Greenville Steel Car Co. 10 panel sides 4/4 improved Dreadnaught ends Murphy panel roof 4/5/5 improved Youngstown door Apex running board and break step 7 rung ladders Klasing hand brake End tack boards constructed with four vertical boards; side tack boards have horizontal boards Paint: Sides and ends freight car brown, roof and underbody black car cement, running boards unpainted (brake platform ?), edges of running board, running board projection beyond ends, and roof grab irons freight car brown.
I’ve heard that Klasing hand brakes are included in the P2K Mather 40 ft. boxcar and the Red Caboose Mather meat reefer kits, but they are not sold separately to my knowledge. Is there another source of Klasing hand brake parts?
Was the Apex brake platform painted to match the end or left unpainted?
Are placard boards with four vertical boards commercially available, or is the going to be a scratchbuild project?
Are there any other modeling details that I need to know about these cars?
The Branchline Blueprint kit appears to be quite accurate for this car except for the hand brake and end placard boards. Branchline supplies the ubiquitous Ajax hand brakes.
Thanks for the help.
Nelson Moyer
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Re: Reboxx Wheel set Issue
Thomas Olsen <tmolsen@...>
It is getting bad when you cannot type your own name correctly!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Tom Olsen
On 10/27/13, Thomas Olsen <tmolsen@...> wrote:
Brian,
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