Date   

Re: Searching For Product

Nelson Moyer
 

Ace hardware stores in this area carry K&S products, e.g. tube, bar, rod, etc. I don’t know about angles of if you have Ace stores in Hawaii.

 

Nelson Moyer

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of WILLIAM PARDIE
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 7:10 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io
Subject: [RealSTMFC] Searching For Product

 

 

I am trying to find 1/16" and 5/32" brass angles.  K&S formerly supplied them but a hobby shop told me they haven't had them for a while.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Bill Pardie

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 


Searching For Product

WILLIAM PARDIE
 


I am trying to find 1/16" and 5/32" brass angles.  K&S formerly supplied them but a hobby shop told me they haven't had them for a while.

Any thoughts?

Bill Pardie


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



Re: FTWD Covered Hopper

Jerry Michels
 

Well the reweigh date is for Gillette, Wyoming. Still associated with the Northerns and Q, but quite far north.  I will check on the eBay listing  Something is screwy.  Jerry Michels 


Re: more glue questions Aleene's

John Mateyko
 

I've only used it on plastic building kits by Korber, Walthers and Ameri-Towne and when I bashed two Weaver boxcars into an X-42.
John


Re: more glue questions

irv_thomae
 

There is another Gorilla product which, although also polyurethane based, does not foam or expand.   It's called "Clear Gorilla Glue", and the label says that methanol may be released while it's curing.   They recommend clamping for 2 hours, which limits but doesn't fully exclude its usefulness in assembling freight cars.   For example, I'd consider it for adding a center-sill to the underside of a flatcar deck.
    I have found it very useful in building benchwork, however.

Irv


Re: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] center punch for small (>0.015in/0.4mm) holes

Bruce Smith
 

You are trying too hard! Or rather pushing too hard. I use a simple push pin. A sewing needle should work just fine. You just need to break the surface, to have a place for the drill bit to rest and catch.
Regards,
Bruce Smith
Auburn, Al


From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of ed_mines via groups.io <ed_mines@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 6:05:06 PM
To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [EXT] [RealSTMFC] center punch for small (>0.015in/0.4mm) holes
 
CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

Can anyone suggest a needle to use as a center punch/awl to dimple plastic before drilling so drills don't drift?
 I've tried using the smallest sewing needle chucked in a pin vice. It gets too large in diameter too quickly. 
What I want is a small diameter, hard metal shaft like an old fashioned phonograph needle. Anyone ever try this or know where I can get just one phonograph needle (Ebay sells 100/$10). Anyone have any other suggestions?
Years ago I used one of the needles on a tiny bow compass. Sadly I lost that tool. Anyone know where I can buy those needles separately without having to place a big order?
Speaking of that compass/divider it had 1-1/2 in legs and the thumb screw was to one side, not in between the legs. I bought it in an art supply store 30 years ago. Can anyone lead me to something similar?


Re: more glue questions

Dennis Storzek <dennis@...>
 

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 03:34 PM, Charlie Duckworth wrote:
Ed
The gorilla glue I’ve used expanded quite a bit as it dried. 
 
Charlie 
That's what I found the one time I used it. It foams, just like casting resin when it's contaminated with water. That, I think, is it's claim to fame, when you have a poor fitting joint, like the worn out stretchers between chair legs, it kinda sticks, making you think you've done a good job. It's chemically related to Great Stuff, the urethane insulation in a can, that uses the moisture in the air to cause it to foam. I can't see any use for it in freightcar modeling.

Dennis Storzek


Re: center punch for small (>0.015in/0.4mm) holes

O Fenton Wells
 

I bought one at the hobby shop with 2 needles in a pin vise one slim and one fatter.  I'll try to get the make tomorrow
Fenton

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 7:05 PM ed_mines via groups.io <ed_mines=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Can anyone suggest a needle to use as a center punch/awl to dimple plastic before drilling so drills don't drift?
 I've tried using the smallest sewing needle chucked in a pin vice. It gets too large in diameter too quickly. 
What I want is a small diameter, hard metal shaft like an old fashioned phonograph needle. Anyone ever try this or know where I can get just one phonograph needle (Ebay sells 100/$10). Anyone have any other suggestions?
Years ago I used one of the needles on a tiny bow compass. Sadly I lost that tool. Anyone know where I can buy those needles separately without having to place a big order?
Speaking of that compass/divider it had 1-1/2 in legs and the thumb screw was to one side, not in between the legs. I bought it in an art supply store 30 years ago. Can anyone lead me to something similar?



--
Fenton Wells
250 Frye Rd
Pinehurst NC 28374
910-420-8106
srrfan1401@...


Re: center punch for small (>0.015in/0.4mm) holes

Scott H. Haycock
 

Sewing needles aren't really all that sharp. I use one of these.
 
 
This tool is very sharp and will centerpunch a very tiny divot. 

Scott Haycock
Modeling Tarheel country in the Land of Enchantm
ent

On 09/28/2021 5:05 PM ed_mines via groups.io <ed_mines@...> wrote:
 
 

Can anyone suggest a needle to use as a center punch/awl to dimple plastic before drilling so drills don't drift?
 I've tried using the smallest sewing needle chucked in a pin vice. It gets too large in diameter too quickly. 
What I want is a small diameter, hard metal shaft like an old fashioned phonograph needle. Anyone ever try this or know where I can get just one phonograph needle (Ebay sells 100/$10). Anyone have any other suggestions?
Years ago I used one of the needles on a tiny bow compass. Sadly I lost that tool. Anyone know where I can buy those needles separately without having to place a big order?
Speaking of that compass/divider it had 1-1/2 in legs and the thumb screw was to one side, not in between the legs. I bought it in an art supply store 30 years ago. Can anyone lead me to something similar?


Re: more glue questions Aleene's

ed_mines
 

Thanks John.
Have you used it to join 2 pieces of polystyrene? Cast resin kits? Wood to wood? Wood to metal, plastic?


center punch for small (>0.015in/0.4mm) holes

ed_mines
 

Can anyone suggest a needle to use as a center punch/awl to dimple plastic before drilling so drills don't drift?
 I've tried using the smallest sewing needle chucked in a pin vice. It gets too large in diameter too quickly. 
What I want is a small diameter, hard metal shaft like an old fashioned phonograph needle. Anyone ever try this or know where I can get just one phonograph needle (Ebay sells 100/$10). Anyone have any other suggestions?
Years ago I used one of the needles on a tiny bow compass. Sadly I lost that tool. Anyone know where I can buy those needles separately without having to place a big order?
Speaking of that compass/divider it had 1-1/2 in legs and the thumb screw was to one side, not in between the legs. I bought it in an art supply store 30 years ago. Can anyone lead me to something similar?


Re: Funaro and Camerlengo B&O Boxcar

lrkdbn
 

Just wanted to say I agree with the others- the car looks fine. Why not put a repainted patch and new weight and date?. That would provide a bit of contrast.
Larry King


Re: more glue questions Aleene's

John Mateyko
 

I've used Aleene's for many years.  First, the economics.  It is available in three sizes.  Approx 2 oz, then two larger sizes.
The large size is tempting, but the glue gets very thick about six months after opening so I buy the medium size which comes in 
a plastic, squeezable bottle.
The glue is white when it comes out of the tube and allows about five minutes of 'play time' before it starts to set and you can force it around for the next couple of minutes.  At fifteen minutes it is pretty much set.  Aleene's is water soluable so if you use it to construct a plastic building kit, if you need to take apart the building just set it in a tub of water for an hour or so, separate the pieces and pick off the dried glue.
I would not use it for trying to bond two pieces which could pull apart.  Whatever that strength is called, Aleene's does not have it.
If you would like to talk about it, send me a private message with your phone number and best time to call.
John Mateyko


Re: more glue questions

Charlie Duckworth
 

Ed
The gorilla glue I’ve used expanded quite a bit as it dried. 

Charlie 

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 5:31 PM ed_mines via groups.io <ed_mines=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Does the original gorilla glue contain any solvent? How fast does it "dry" (cure, it's polyurethane). How about viscosity& smell? Does it make strands like the old Walther's goo did?

Anyone familiar with Aleene's tacky glue? How's the viscosity, dry time, bond strength & smell?


--
Charlie Duckworth 
Omaha, Ne.


more glue questions

ed_mines
 

Does the original gorilla glue contain any solvent? How fast does it "dry" (cure, it's polyurethane). How about viscosity& smell? Does it make strands like the old Walther's goo did?

Anyone familiar with Aleene's tacky glue? How's the viscosity, dry time, bond strength & smell?


Re: Funaro and Camerlengo B&O Boxcar

Michael Gross
 

No such thing as "too dirty" unless every car in the freight yard looks like your wagon top.

Vive la différence!
--
Michael Gross
Pasadena, CA


Amarillo Museum FW&D Covered Hopper

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Having bought more kits I ver the years than I will ever get to (I'm sure I'm not alone on this) I have refrained from buying more cars .  When the notice of The Anarillo Railraod Museum's offering.of  an FE&D covered hopper appeared on this list last week it caught my attention.  One of my long term projects is a FW&D boxcar that Amzrillo did and I felt that this would be a good companion.

Normally when I get a completed model the first thing that I do is to look to see what has to be improved on.  The model came in yesterday and I have to say it is excellent.  The only improvement that I detected is the addition of air hose Brackets.

Congratulations on this model.

Bill Pardie



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
  


Re: Soo line caboose?

 

My grandfather bought one to put on the grounds of his tool factory in Owatonna, MN, along with IC 201, a commuter engine. Both were moved to my uncle’s museum when OTC was sold. IC 201 went to IRM. No idea where the Soo caboose went. I have a painting of both in front of the old CNW/MILW Union Depot. The Soo caboose is numbered 269 in that painting. Attached is a photo by my friend Chad Peterson.

 

 

Thanks!
--

Brian Ehni

 

 

From: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> on behalf of Dennis Storzek <dennis@...>
Reply-To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 at 1:40 PM
To: <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] Soo line caboose?

 

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 08:04 AM, Logan Bertolette wrote:

I'm an SP guy so I am not familiar with Soo Line and wonder if it was genuine or an ersatz makeover.

Yep, it's the real deal, still in its last paint scheme and proper number. It does seem to be missing its running board. Built by AC&F in 1907, the last of 25 cars in lot 4592. The Soo cars were distinctive, having only one window on this side; the white panel further along that looks like a window is, I think, a vent for an RV type refrigerator, likely added for its new role as a cabin.

The Soo Line entirely skipped the first generation of steel cabooses, keeping the turn of the century wood cars in service until replacement with new International Car Co. extended vision cars in the late sixties. When they were disposed of at that time, they were one of the few places where one could buy a classic wood caboose, and so they were dispersed far and wide. I can think of examples in Whippany, New Jersey and Naples, Florida, although this is the furthest west I've heard of one going.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Soo line caboose?

Dennis Storzek <dennis@...>
 

On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 08:04 AM, Logan Bertolette wrote:
I'm an SP guy so I am not familiar with Soo Line and wonder if it was genuine or an ersatz makeover.
Yep, it's the real deal, still in its last paint scheme and proper number. It does seem to be missing its running board. Built by AC&F in 1907, the last of 25 cars in lot 4592. The Soo cars were distinctive, having only one window on this side; the white panel further along that looks like a window is, I think, a vent for an RV type refrigerator, likely added for its new role as a cabin.

The Soo Line entirely skipped the first generation of steel cabooses, keeping the turn of the century wood cars in service until replacement with new International Car Co. extended vision cars in the late sixties. When they were disposed of at that time, they were one of the few places where one could buy a classic wood caboose, and so they were dispersed far and wide. I can think of examples in Whippany, New Jersey and Naples, Florida, although this is the furthest west I've heard of one going.

Dennis Storzek


Re: Soo line caboose?

steve_wintner
 

As a Soo guy, yeah, if that's Ersatz it's a very good one. Number, paint, proportions are all pretty close. 

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