Date   

Re: Meridan & Bigbee boxcar #900

Bill Welch
 

Paul

Here is a link with two photos of 1937 type M&B boxcars in 1972, #'s 2010 and 2044, both equipped w/corrugated doors: http://hawkinsrails.net/shortlines/mb/mb.htm

In my attempt to document all "Ya'll Railroad" boxcars that may have been in-service in 1955 I ordered a M&B boxcar photo from M. D. McCarter's photo list although it did not match the number in the ORER, but I cannot find it to see the car number so I am unsure if it is part of the above group. I remember however that it too had a corrugated door.

I bought this car in a 3-pack I believe from Andy Carlson with a Birmingham Southern and another southeastern car even though I knew the BS did not have the correct doors, ends or roof because the price was good and I wanted the other two. I am going to email Red Caboose owner Bill McClung to see if he remembers if he had documentation to back up his M&B scheme.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "paul.doggett2472" <paul.doggett2472@...> wrote:

Hi All
I recently picked up a red caboose Meridan & Bigbee boxcar #900 as with all red caboose kits it has a Youngstown door and a Superior door which one is correct can anyone help please.


Re: Carmer Cut Levers

Michael Watnoski
 

Hi Aaron,

Etched brass Carmer levers in HO scale are available from Free State Systems. They are $20 for nine pairs. Part# 8053. E-mail freestatesystems1@... to order.

Michael

On 8/29/2013 4:50 PM, wolfhunt1987@... wrote:
Dear Group &nbsp; &nbsp;Because of Yahoo's new setup I can not search old posts. I was wondering how to make or where I can find carmer cut levers. &nbsp; Aaron Heaney

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Intermountain C&O offset side hoppers

Curt Fortenberry
 

Intermountain has posted photos of the upcoming C&amp;O offset side hoppers: Radial ends: &nbsp;http://www.intermountain-railway.com/ho/html/47155.htm Dreadnaught ends: &nbsp;http://www.intermountain-railway.com/ho/html/47160.htm Website says November delivery. Curt Fortenberry


Re: C&O hopper photo needed

Curt Fortenberry
 

the NMRA library has ACF builder&#39;s photos on line. Curt Fortenberry&nbsp; --- In stmfc@..., &lt;ed_mines@...&gt; wrote: There was a builders type photo and plans for 2 bay offset C&amp;O hoppers in an RMC artcle. Also photos &amp; plans of 3 bay hoppers with this unique end in Mainline Modeler. Also photos in the C&amp;O freight car book (soft white cover).

Ed Mines

--- In STMFC@... , &lt;cepropst@...&gt; wrote:
&gt;
&gt; I know someone wanting to model a Dreadnaught w/heap shield C&amp;O style hopper car end and needs a photo.
&gt;
&gt; Thanks to anyone who can help!!
&gt; Clark Propst
&gt; Mason City Iowa
&gt;
&gt; [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
&gt;


Carmer Cut Levers

Aaron Heaney
 

Dear Group &nbsp; &nbsp;Because of Yahoo&#39;s new setup I can not search old posts. I was wondering how to make or where I can find carmer cut levers. &nbsp; Aaron Heaney


Re: C&O hopper photo needed

ed_mines
 

There was a builders type photo and plans for 2 bay offset C&O hoppers in an RMC artcle. Also photos & plans of 3 bay hoppers with this unique end in Mainline Modeler. Also photos in the C&O freight car book (soft white cover).

Ed Mines

--- In STMFC@..., <cepropst@...> wrote:

I know someone wanting to model a Dreadnaught w/heap shield C&O style hopper car end and needs a photo.

Thanks to anyone who can help!!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dartnaught ends

Benjamin Hom
 

Dave Nelson asked:
"... is there somebody here who will "second" / confirm Tim's statement?"
 
Sure - ACF carbuilder end works for me, as [Insert company here] carbuilder end works for any other proprietary end.
 
 
Ben Hom


Re: Dartnaught ends

Dave Nelson
 

I know Tim is most often correct but I really want to know for sure... is
there somebody here who will "second" / confirm Tim's statement?

Dave Nelson

-----Original Message-----
From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of Tim
O'Connor

But yeah, the "Dartnot" is better called an ACF Carbuilder end.

Tim O'Connor


Re: was Milk Car Placards, C of G vent car

Todd Horton
 

http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000001.jpg
 
Not trying to hijack this thread but notice the C of G vent boxcar in the background. Neat !!

Todd Horton


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@...>
To: "<STMFC@...>" <STMFC@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Milk Car Placards


 

Folks,

Here's my challenge <G> SUPPLEE MILK placards (in HO).
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000002.jpg
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000001.jpg

Solution #1 - cut out the decal (that I printed) - Seriously? What was I thinking? Cutting those complex letters with a hobby knife? I'm not that good!
Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough
Solution #3 - etched brass. The masks are done, the brass is ready... just need to etch me some letters! Maybe this weekend.... Once etched, I will paint the letters white and decal them while still on the fret and then cut them off, touch up the paint and apply to the car side.

Regards

Bruce

Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Milk Car Placards

wlhoss@...
 

Bruce,

You may want to check the pulse spacing used to fire the laser. It's
possible that it's set to low. Also is the laser cutting true arcs or is it
cutting straight line segments to represent a circle? If the laser uses
stepper motors to control table and laser movement that may be the cause too
depending on the software used.

Bill Hoss

In a message dated 8/29/2013 10:08:11 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
smithbf@... writes:




In a message dated 8/29/2013 10:08:11 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
smithbf@... writes:

Todd,

My brother had access to a laser through school and it left fuzzy, stepped
edges in places. Possibly workable, but not ideal. A higher end laser
might do a better job,


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

On Aug 29, 2013, at 9:56 AM, Todd Horton wrote:

"Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal.
Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough"

Bruce, Can you elaborate on this?

Todd Horton


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@...<mailto:smithbf@...>>
To: "<STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>"
<STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Milk Car Placards



Folks,

Here's my challenge <G> SUPPLEE MILK placards (in HO).
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-195100000
02.jpg
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-195100000
01.jpg

Solution #1 - cut out the decal (that I printed) - Seriously? What was I
thinking? Cutting those complex letters with a hobby knife? I'm not that
good!
Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal.
Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough
Solution #3 - etched brass. The masks are done, the brass is ready...
just need to etch me some letters! Maybe this weekend.... Once etched, I
will paint the letters white and decal them while still on the fret and then
cut them off, touch up the paint and apply to the car side.

Regards

Bruce

Bruce F. Smith


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Milk Car Placards

Bruce Smith
 

Todd,

My brother had access to a laser through school and it left fuzzy, stepped edges in places. Possibly workable, but not ideal. A higher end laser might do a better job,


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

On Aug 29, 2013, at 9:56 AM, Todd Horton wrote:

"Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough"

Bruce, Can you elaborate on this?

Todd Horton


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@...<mailto:smithbf@...>>
To: "<STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>" <STMFC@...<mailto:STMFC@...>>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Milk Car Placards



Folks,

Here's my challenge <G> SUPPLEE MILK placards (in HO).
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000002.jpg
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000001.jpg

Solution #1 - cut out the decal (that I printed) - Seriously? What was I thinking? Cutting those complex letters with a hobby knife? I'm not that good!
Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough
Solution #3 - etched brass. The masks are done, the brass is ready... just need to etch me some letters! Maybe this weekend.... Once etched, I will paint the letters white and decal them while still on the fret and then cut them off, touch up the paint and apply to the car side.

Regards

Bruce

Bruce F. Smith


Re: Milk Car Placards

Todd Horton
 

"Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough"
 
Bruce, Can you elaborate on this?

Todd Horton


________________________________
From: Bruce F. Smith <smithbf@...>
To: "<STMFC@...>" <STMFC@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Re: Milk Car Placards

 

Folks,

Here's my challenge <G> SUPPLEE MILK placards (in HO).
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000002.jpg
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000001.jpg

Solution #1 - cut out the decal (that I printed) - Seriously? What was I thinking? Cutting those complex letters with a hobby knife? I'm not that good!
Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough
Solution #3 - etched brass. The masks are done, the brass is ready... just need to etch me some letters! Maybe this weekend.... Once etched, I will paint the letters white and decal them while still on the fret and then cut them off, touch up the paint and apply to the car side.

Regards

Bruce

Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dartnaught ends

cinderandeight@...
 

Jim,
These cars must have been completely rebuilt in 1956 because the photo
I have is certainly not a 1937 box car.
Thanks to Richard Hendrickson for locating the listing of these cars
under MDTC.
Rich Burg


Re: Milk Car Placards

Bruce Smith
 

Folks,

Here's my challenge <G> SUPPLEE MILK placards (in HO).
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000002.jpg
http://www.trainweb.org/everett/library/hbtm/photos/hbtm37-bedford-19510000001.jpg

Solution #1 - cut out the decal (that I printed) - Seriously? What was I thinking? Cutting those complex letters with a hobby knife? I'm not that good!
Solution #2 - laser cut the letters from card stock and then decal. Closer, but the cutter I used did not cut cleanly enough
Solution #3 - etched brass. The masks are done, the brass is ready... just need to etch me some letters! Maybe this weekend.... Once etched, I will paint the letters white and decal them while still on the fret and then cut them off, touch up the paint and apply to the car side.


Regards

Bruce


Bruce F. Smith

Auburn, AL

https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/


"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."

__

/ &#92;

__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________

|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |

| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||

|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|

| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0


Re: Milk Car Placards

midrly
 

You might consider using thin paper, like junk mail. I have measured this stuff at .002 to .003 thick. Paint it to stabilise it, then apply the decals. The placard can be attached to the car side using Microscale Kristal Kleer.

Steve Lucas.

--- In STMFC@..., Indian640@... wrote:

Seems that there is some sort of temporal distortion on my STMFC feed since
I read the reply to this message earlier today. ;>)

Still, the idea posted then was a good one. I would use a piece of thin (I
used .010 clear on one of my Sheffield Farms cars) styrene as a backer to
the decal to reproduce the enameled signs. You can then coat it with pretty
much any finish that you are comfortable with without having the board
grooves show up behind it. Anything else is going to create more problems
than it solves..

BTW, just printing the sign out on thin cardstock works too..

Gents,


Further to Bill Schneider's suggestions I replicate the steel
placard signs from brass shim stock. A number of the shippers
with which I am interested (shipping via the NYO&W) applied
placards to leased milk cars, and some to shipper owned
cars. Those include Sheffield Farms, Muller Diaries, Jetter
Dairies and Dairymen's League.

I glue the shim stock to 1/32" plywood with good old fashioned
contact cement and the cut the placard to size with a jeweler's
saw. With the stock on the plywood I can file to size, and then
detach it by floating in lacquer thinner. The thin stick can be
embossed at the corners to simulate the attachment bolt
heads. Stuck to a paint stirring stick with carpet tape allows
me to paint the placard stock and then apply decals.

I also use a bench mounted shear to cut shim stock to size,
without the glue - plywood method.

Then shim stock backing works well with the decals printed
with or without the backing colors. The thin placards can be
applied to wood cars or steel cars, and to demountable tanks
where appropriate. The placard can be cemented to the car
sides with either canopy cement to Woodland Scenics
brush applied detail cement.

As Bill Schneider mentions placards can also be made
for shippers when decals are unavailable by creating them
using Corel, or another program on the computer and then
printing on heavy presentation paper.

Mal Houck



Re: Meridan & Bigbee boxcar #500

paul.doggett2472 <paul.doggett2472@...>
 

Hi Chuck
Yes that's probably right I will use the Youngstown but fix it so I can easily change it, so when JOE turns up it will be easy to change.
Paul Doggett

--- In STMFC@..., RUTLANDRS@... wrote:

It's simple, put on the Youngstown door, and Joe Crackerjack will come out
of the woodwork with a picture showing the Superior door, and he'll have 3
other photos and been on this list for 6 years.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 8/28/2013 3:49:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
timboconnor@... writes:





Paul, the M&B owned exactly ONE box car for many years -- I think it was
a second hand car and only a photograph could tell you which door to use!
But with only one car, probably not many pictures exist -- I've never seen
one. When you find out, let us know -- I have the same kit! :-)

Tim O'Connor

I got the number wrong its #500 not 900 as on original posting. Paul
Doggett England

I recently picked up a red caboose Meridan & Bigbee boxcar #900 ...





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: WMRX (was Dartnaught ends)

Tim O'Connor
 

I think the WMRX cars were rebuilds of older cars. Certainly the
postwar Despatch ends and plug doors were not included in 1931.
The cars were well maintained -- I have two shots of cars freshly
repainted in 1961 & 1962.

Tim O'Connor

The Oertly/McFall book "Western Maryland Railway Revenue Equipment: Boxcars and
Refrigerator Cars" liste WMRX 1- 15 as built 9, 10 1931 MDT for NRX, Leased 10-1956 to WM.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV


Re: KCS SS boxcar

Tim O'Connor
 

Mainline Modeler published the same photo of KCS #16027 twice.
April 1993 p.36, and November 1984 p.39.

Tim O'

> Can anyone in the group tell me what type of roof was used on the Kansas City Southern
> boxcars in the 16000-16499 series. These cars had 7/7 ends and were single sheathed. A
> photo of one of these cars appeared in a Mainline Modeler article by John Nehrich.
> Rick Dietrichson

Rick, I have several photos of these cars, and all show them with Murphy solid steel roofs.
As the earliest photo is dated 1936, it seems likely that these were the original roofs. By
the way, the ends were 7-8, not 7-7.

Richard Hendrickson


Re: C&O hopper photo needed

rwitt_2000
 

There is a set of 3 photos on-line of a very rusted one with an interesting patch in the Dreadnaught end. Link: http://cjb77.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?id=612895 Regards, Bob Witt --- In stmfc@..., &lt;water.kresse@...&gt; wrote: We got tons of them at the C&amp;OHS.&nbsp; Need to be more specific . . . . 50-ton, offset-side, twin or triple, era modeling, etc.&nbsp;&nbsp; WE have builders prints and in-service modified, etc.



Al Kresse, C&amp;OHS freight car editor

----- Original Message -----


From: cepropst@...
To: &quot;STMFC&quot; &lt; STMFC@... &gt;
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 4:19:22 PM
Subject: [STMFC] C&amp;O hopper photo needed

I know someone wanting to model a Dreadnaught w/heap shield C&amp;O style hopper car end and needs a photo.

Thanks to anyone who can help!!
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dartnaught ends

James E Kubanick
 

The Oertly/McFall book "Western Maryland Railway Revenue Equipment: Boxcars and Refrigerator Cars" liste WMRX 1- 15 as built 9, 10 1931 MDT for NRX, Leased 10-1956 to WM.

Jim Kubanick
Morgantown WV




________________________________
From: "cinderandeight@..." <cinderandeight@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 6:03 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Dartnaught ends



 
Bill,
I know of at least one non-NYC, PC or LV application of the Dispatch
ends within the group's time line. I have a photo of WMRX #9, an insulated
box car that was built by Dispatch shops. The car's weight date is E.R.
10-56 It has PS Compartmentizers. I can not find a listing for it in the
ORER under WM so I assume it is a leased car. Does anyone have any idea
where it was listed?
Rich Burg

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]