Thank you Fred.

Re; the Branchline car, FGE and WFE did own cars built by AC&F but built to an earlier design than represented by the BL/Atlas model. Quite noticeable with a short 5-foot high door opening and available from Westerfield as their Type I.

RE: BLI I hope they stick to locomotives or get someone new to design their freight cars, I am not impressed with their NYC boxcar.

Bill Welch

Actually a more careful look revealed a few RR color under the Poly scale brand. Also note that when one highlight a color, a representation appears as a guide.

I am sure the answer to your question will be that the site is aimed at aircraft, armor, and auto modelers.

Bill Welch

Hi Bill,
 
There was not the usual buzz of excitement to this years show. Athearn did
their big reveal of GP-38-2's. If this is a model you have waited for, then
your prayers have been answered.
 
One thing that impressed  me were the amount of structure kits being offered
by new makers. Most are laser kits with outstanding details. These kits
ranged in the $65 to $485, depending on how large a space you wanted to fill.
 
For those who like photo etched kits, there are more new items in multi
scales for your layout, which includes, signal bridges in many configurations,
to the very small like a flue rack of tools for cleaning out a steamer. Even
vehicles are available. The show stopper was the fellow with the N-scale
auto rack truck he swears is soldered together.
 
One dealer was installing sound systems while the customer waited. My
little group mused that we thought PFM sound was a major innovation,
now it's in the power it self.
 
S-scale was very well represented at the show. My  pick were the PRR
P70 coaches. If I were not in HO, i would have started with these and
built a layout around them. Rapido has the new Osggod-Bradley smoker
cars, and they will be re-running them in the future in case you missed out
first time around.
 
BLI rep says they have several projects in the 'works'. He says they will
make modelers on both coasts very happy. He could not get into specifics
as there as some in the  modeling community who wait for an announcement
then bring out a cheap copy to the street. Have to respect them for
protecting their products.
 
Atlas had a sample of the new reefers they are selling [ a/k/a the Branchline
kits]. For Bill in particular, they have 2 lettered for the FGEX. These cars
are all wood style. I asked if there were any plans to finish the FM loco
series with the H-20-44, and he said it is on their production consideration
list.
 
Bowser was there with the new sound units and they are quite nice. I had
to ask about the Baldwin line they market under the Stewart label. Years
back Steve Stewart wanted to make all the baldwin switchers, ending with
the 2500hp center cab units. It has been discussed but no decision has been
reached as to further the plans. Another wait & see.
 
The clinics were very informative even for an old hand like myself. Never
hurts to brush up on techniques you haven't used in a while. The show
expanded into 4 buildings now, so exercise was the order of the day. I was
most thankful that the food vendors were in each building and were open!
 
Best guess was about 35,000 attendees for Saturday according to Amherst
sources. There was an increase of busses to the show this year. I thought
about it, it's a great way to get a group together and head out. Nice part, no
driving for hours to get home. Bus companies from NY, to DC & Ohio were
in attendance. The big show is getting bigger every year.
 
The weather worked for all concerned, mild at 48 degrees with plenty of
sun; perfect driving / walking day.
 
I found a couple bargains; a BLI Prr L2 for $175 and a couple structure kits
at 20% off list from the manufacturer. Now all I'm waitng for is the WKW
PRR tower kits. Business was brisk in the morning. My little group watched
a fellow buy an O-scale passenger train for $8599 with an american express
card. Mind you, this was not a brass train set!
 
 
Fred Freitas
Bennington, VT
 


________________________________
From: lnbill <fgexbill@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2012 8:16 AM
Subject: [STMFC] Amhearst Report?!


 
You folks in the northeast are not telling us the highlights from the weekend. What gives?

Bill Welch

Good points Bruce. Probably the one thing I don't do and probably won't is
grit blast. I've been very successful with lacquer for over 30 years and
will probably continue. That limits me to painting while my wife is out as
my spray booth does a pretty good job over an hour or two (it is upstairs,
as I lost my basement when I retired, showing what a poor negotiator I
am). I do use the acrylics with a brush and may continue to try my luck
with the air brush and the ALCOHOL soluble paints, as I have found that
practice makes better (in my case not perfect).
Thanks for every one's input. Good stuff.
Fenton Wells
On Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Bruce Smith <smithbf@...> wrote:

**


Fenton,

First, a nit to pick, these paints are technically NOT water based. The
solvent is alcohol. Because alcohol is water SOLUBLE, these paints are also
water SOLUBLE.

As for adherence, I've never had a problem on resin or plastic (brass...
definitely an issue!). I usually prep resin with grit blasting and washing
in DAWN. Never handle the model with bare hands after washing. When
painting brass, I will usually use an enamel base coat for better adherence.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Jan 29, 2012, at 7:51 PM, O Fenton Wells wrote:

Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the
water based paints sticking to resin kits? I have been using lacquer

based

for years and when I have tried the water based paints they seem to chip

or

scratch very easily on resin cars, where the lacquer based paints hold

much

better.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Fenton Wells

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Nice; but as you say, no model RR colors. Therefore, not quite "ultimate". I
did leave feedback at the site asking why.

Thanks!
--

Brian P. Ehni

From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 13:34:56 -0000
To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Paint Comparison Chart






Oops

Forgot the link! Thanks Brian

Here it is: http://www.paint4models.com/

Bill Welch

Fenton,

First, a nit to pick, these paints are technically NOT water based. The solvent is alcohol. Because alcohol is water SOLUBLE, these paints are also water SOLUBLE.

As for adherence, I've never had a problem on resin or plastic (brass... definitely an issue!). I usually prep resin with grit blasting and washing in DAWN. Never handle the model with bare hands after washing. When painting brass, I will usually use an enamel base coat for better adherence.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Jan 29, 2012, at 6:32 PM, Pierre wrote:

I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model flex or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. Pierre

When painting with acrylics, the mantra is "keep the air dry, keep the paint wet".

- thin with DI water - thinning with alcohol causes the paint to dry to quickly (retarder might be good... never tried it)
- never blow air through a dirty brush (dual action brushes can do this) as the paint will dry inside quite quickly
- I spray at 25 psi
- drop the airbrush in a bucket of water between colors
- run water or cleaner through the brush frequently while painting

I paint almost exclusive with acrylics and love the results, but there is no question that it is harder than enamels. I use Poly Scale (OK), Model Master (Wonderful) and Vallejo (nice paints but really thick, thin the heck out of them).

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
https://www5.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
__
/ &#92;
__<+--+>________________&#92;__/___ ________________________________
|- ______/ O O &#92;_______ -| | __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ |
| / 4999 PENNSYLVANIA 4999 &#92; | ||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||__||
|/_____________________________&#92;|_|________________________________|
| O--O &#92;0 0 0 0/ O--O | 0-0-0 0-0-0

OK thanks, and alcohol is faster.
Fenton

On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:45 PM, <RUTLANDRS@...> wrote:

**


Fenton,
I've heard of using washer fluid as "thinner" but not for cleaning,
stick with the alcohol.
Chuck Hladik


In a message dated 1/29/2012 9:43:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
srrfan1401@... writes:

Thanks Bill. I use windshield washer liquid ans sometimes alcohol as well
but for some reason the paint finish seem more 'fragile' than lacquer
paints. I'll keep trying as I am getting much pressure from my wife.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:40 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote:

**


Fenton

I have not had any problem with adherence. I always wash them thoroughly
and sometimes will also go over them with denatured alcohol.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with

the

water based paints sticking to resin kits? I have been using lacquer

based

for years and when I have tried the water based paints they seem to

chip

or

scratch very easily on resin cars, where the lacquer based paints hold

much

better.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 8:20 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote:

**


Pierre:

I use mostly Modelflex but Polly Scale has some colors I like too,

Aged or

Tarnished Black (can't remember exactly) and their several BC reds

and

browns. They will require a larger orifice than you are probably

accustomed

to. After struggling for sometime for several years with a Binks-Wren

SA

that I had purchased as a teen, I purchased the Badger Anthem one

year

at

the NMRA National Train Show at a very good price. They had just been
introduced and was designed for water based paints. Just the ticket.

You will also want to use a lower air-pressure, 18-20 PSI. Also stir,

do

not shake. You know where I am if you have more questions.

Any highlights from Springfield?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "Pierre" <pierreferland2010@> wrote:

I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model

flex

or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. Pierre

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oops

Forgot the link! Thanks Brian

Here it is: http://www.paint4models.com/

Bill Welch

And what is that, pray tell? 8^)


Thanks!
--

Brian P. Ehni




From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Reply-To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 13:14:51 -0000
To: STMFC List <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Paint Comparison Chart








All of the talk about paint has me Googling paint related things and
I came across this resource which does NOT have RR colors but could be
useful nonetheless.

Bill Welch

You folks in the northeast are not telling us the highlights from the weekend. What gives?

Bill Welch

All of the talk about paint has me Googling paint related things and I came across this resource which does NOT have RR colors but could be useful nonetheless.

Bill Welch

Has anyone mentioned that True Line Trains had an 8-hatch CN
overhead brine tank reefer on display at Springfield? It looked
like a pre-production sample, not decorated, but it looked very
nicely detailed.

All the 'exhibitors' (vendors and clubs, etc) at Springfield got
a free Exactrail car as a gift -- all 3,400 of us!!

Record attendance (at least for the past 8 years), of over 23,000
paying visitors. Maybe the hobby recession is ending?

Tim O'Connor

I've probably got my wires crossed, but I could have sworn that
someone was going to do either the PC&F or MAGOR box cars for BAR
in HO scale as an RTR model?

Or am I just confused?

Tim O'Connor

Darn - that was stupid - I should have walked to the shop before answering. I have cars from the initial run - in the early, pre-Kuhler scheme. Sorry about the confusion.

Rob

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 10:56 PM
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] decals for Fox Valley Wagontop

I should have thought of that when I wrote the initial question! Thanks for
asking. I'm working on models in the as-built Kuhler scheme.

Rob Kirkham

--------------------------------------------------
From: "StephenK" <thekays100@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 9:38 AM
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: decals for Fox Valley Wagontop

What paint scheme are we talking about?

SKay

--- In STMFC@..., "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@...> wrote:

Hi there,

I'm working on a couple of the Fox Valley wagon-top cars - unfortunately
both came lettered with the same car number.

The good news: - the lettering comes off very easily with orange based
pumice hand cleaner used in automotive departments. A small blob of the
stuff placed with a toothpick on a single digit allows one to remove only
part of the car number (or re-weigh info, etc). I place the blob of
cleaner
on the letter or number in question and, about 15 minutes later, sweep
the
digit away with a swish of a paint brush. I run it under the tap, using
the
brush and water to remove any remaining cleaner and fragments of the
letter
and let it air dry.

Now I'm trying to find decals that are of the same style and size as used
by
Fox Valley. As one who hasn't previously modelled any B & O rolling
stock,
I wonder if anyone else has done any re-numbering and can suggest a
suitable
decal for this purpose?

Rob Kirkham

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

I should have thought of that when I wrote the initial question! Thanks for asking. I'm working on models in the as-built Kuhler scheme.

Rob Kirkham

--------------------------------------------------
From: "StephenK" <thekays100@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 9:38 AM
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: decals for Fox Valley Wagontop

What paint scheme are we talking about?

SKay

--- In STMFC@..., "Rob Kirkham" <rdkirkham@...> wrote:

Hi there,

I'm working on a couple of the Fox Valley wagon-top cars - unfortunately
both came lettered with the same car number.

The good news: - the lettering comes off very easily with orange based
pumice hand cleaner used in automotive departments. A small blob of the
stuff placed with a toothpick on a single digit allows one to remove only
part of the car number (or re-weigh info, etc). I place the blob of cleaner
on the letter or number in question and, about 15 minutes later, sweep the
digit away with a swish of a paint brush. I run it under the tap, using the
brush and water to remove any remaining cleaner and fragments of the letter
and let it air dry.

Now I'm trying to find decals that are of the same style and size as used by
Fox Valley. As one who hasn't previously modelled any B & O rolling stock,
I wonder if anyone else has done any re-numbering and can suggest a suitable
decal for this purpose?

Rob Kirkham

At 12:32 AM 1/30/2012 -0000, you wrote:

I'm switching over to acrylic paints

How come?

Andy

I have been using Polly for years. recently I bought a mechanical Tea bag at IKEA. It is a scissors like device with 2 semi round screens. I use it to screen out silod matter from the paint before I pour it into my feed cup.
I have started making my own seals for the lids to replace the battered card stock seals that are on the bottles. I use the seal from my maintenance meds from Express scripts. I suppose if you are in perfect health you could use .10 styrene and cut your own.
I like to keep my pressure at 35 PSI and thin with bottled water. I have used a Pasche H with a #3 tip but have switched to a #5. It's much better and doesn't clog as fast.
At Trainfest I spoke to the Iwata reps and they suggested using anything but Polly. Ufortunately it's more available in my area. The plus side is it does brush quite well and levels nice and flat.
I wash all my cars with Dawn (which now has an extreme formula) spray direct to the models, gloss coat with Future and flat finish with Polly Flat. My cars get handled and I haven't noticed any scratches or chips. Some wear on the brass grabs but I don't blast before I paint so it serves me right.
Rob Manley
Midwest Mod-U-Trak
"Better modeling through personal embarrassment"

Fenton,
I've heard of using washer fluid as "thinner" but not for cleaning,
stick with the alcohol.
Chuck Hladik

Thanks Bill. I use windshield washer liquid ans sometimes alcohol as well
but for some reason the paint finish seem more 'fragile' than lacquer
paints. I'll keep trying as I am getting much pressure from my wife.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 9:40 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote:

**


Fenton

I have not had any problem with adherence. I always wash them thoroughly
and sometimes will also go over them with denatured alcohol.

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., O Fenton Wells <srrfan1401@...> wrote:

Bill, in your experience with these paints have you had trouble with the
water based paints sticking to resin kits? I have been using lacquer

based

for years and when I have tried the water based paints they seem to chip

or

scratch very easily on resin cars, where the lacquer based paints hold

much

better.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Fenton Wells
On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 8:20 PM, lnbill <fgexbill@...> wrote:

**


Pierre:

I use mostly Modelflex but Polly Scale has some colors I like too,

Aged or

Tarnished Black (can't remember exactly) and their several BC reds and
browns. They will require a larger orifice than you are probably

accustomed

to. After struggling for sometime for several years with a Binks-Wren

SA

that I had purchased as a teen, I purchased the Badger Anthem one year

at

the NMRA National Train Show at a very good price. They had just been
introduced and was designed for water based paints. Just the ticket.

You will also want to use a lower air-pressure, 18-20 PSI. Also stir,

do

not shake. You know where I am if you have more questions.

Any highlights from Springfield?

Bill Welch

--- In STMFC@..., "Pierre" <pierreferland2010@> wrote:

I'm switching over to acrylic paints and thinking of trying Model

flex

or Polly Scale, any ideas or comments. Pierre

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--
Fenton Wells
3047 Creek Run
Sanford NC 27332
919-499-5545
srrfan1401@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]