In a message dated 27/11/2011 15:11:36 GMT Standard Time, cepropst@q.com
writes:




I found TNO 57138 in some railroad documentation. I looked up the number
series in my 59 ORER CD, then went to the SP box car list on the "Steam
freight cars" website. Nothing matches as for as number series go!

Can anyone tell me if the IM 12 panel model would work for TNO 57138? IM
shows a car from the ORER number series on their website. Are there any
decals available?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 27/11/2011 15:11:36 GMT Standard Time, cepropst@q.com
writes:




I found TNO 57138 in some railroad documentation. I looked up the number
series in my 59 ORER CD, then went to the SP box car list on the "Steam
freight cars" website. Nothing matches as for as number series go!

Can anyone tell me if the IM 12 panel model would work for TNO 57138? IM
shows a car from the ORER number series on their website. Are there any
decals available?
Clark Propst
Mason City Iowa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In STMFC@..., "Schuyler Larrabee" <schuyler.larrabee@...> wrote:

For larger decals I've not bothered with wetting the water. But for little
lettering I have done this with a brushfull or two of Kodak Photo-flo. A
brushfull does enough for a saucer of water, maybe a half cup. There does
not appear to be any effect on the decals themselves, nor is there any
"salting" after the water dries. I find it helpful when trying to marshal
something into just the . . . . right . . . . place.



Distilled water, of course.



Schuyler



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
dennyanspach
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 4:21 PM
To: Era Freight Car List Steam
Subject: [STMFC] Decal water wet?





To reduce surface tension, how many of you use any form of "wet" water for
decaling; and if so, just what methods do you use to wet the water? I have
long been tempted to go this route, but have been deterred by ignorance of
just how successful it is, or would be, and- whether or not there would be
some permanent visible effect on the decals.

Denny

Denny S. Anspach MD
Sacramento

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

From: Kurt Laughlin

Just out of curiosity, why do you want them signed?

In a message dated 11/26/2011 6:44:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
thompson@... writes:




Denny Anspach wrote:

To reduce surface tension, how many of you use any form of "wet"
water for decaling; and if so, just what methods do you use to wet
the water? I have long been tempted to go this route, but have been
deterred by ignorance of just how successful it is, or would be,
and- whether or not there would be some permanent visible effect on
the decals.

I've never had any problem decaling with tap water. Maybe our
domestic water is just clean.

Tony Thompson Editor, Signature Press, Berkeley, CA
2906 Forest Ave., Berkeley, CA 94705 www.signaturepress.com
(510) 540-6538; fax, (510) 540-1937; e-mail, _thompson@...
(mailto:thompson@...)
Publishers of books on railroad history

In a message dated 11/25/2011 9:07:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
abrown@... writes:




Apologies; I misunderstood the question. But, your reminder reminds me :-)
: the supermarket "Krazy Glue" has a pin in the cap, that keeps the tip
from clogging. I switched *to* the supermarket stuff for this exact reason.
With fancier ACC, best thing I ever figured out was to store a straight pin
in the bottle tip. But even that didn't work very well; I suspect my
straight pin was too light, letting moisture leak in around it. The pin on the
"Krazy Glue" cap is heavy enough to seal the bottle tip.

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.

--- In _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...) , "lnbill"
<fgexbill@...> wrote:

To clarify and remind, my problem/complaint is NOT the solidifying of

the glue in tube, it is the build up of dried glue in the supposedly slippery
plastic tip or nozzle to the point I have to use a drill to open the
nozzle to use the remaining glue. In fact I opened the new tube on Tuesday when
I gave up trying to clear the nozzle and finish using the remaining glue.

Bill Welch

--- In _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...) ,

"al_brown03" <abrown@> wrote:

It can get humid here ... I use "Krazy Glue" from the supermarket,

both thin and gel types, store it at room temperature in a Mason jar
containing desiccant. I use up the tubes of glue before they congeal, haven't been
tracking how long that takes.

>

Al Brown, Melbourne, Fla.


--- In _STMFC@... (mailto:STMFC@...) ,

"lnbill" <fgexbill@> wrote:

Dennis and everyone interested.

I tried this suggestion and after three days I am abandoning the

suggested practice. I opened a new tube on Tuesday and stored it as Dennis
suggested. I used it on Wednesday and there was some dried glue on the tip,
but the opening was still mostly clear. On Friday afternoon, I removed the
cap to deposit some more glue on my pallet and had to open the tip with a
used #11 blade. I am returning to my previous practice of nursing the glue
that always seem to stay in the tip when I squeeze enough out for use. Oh well.

> Bill Welch

Bill,

> > > >

Try this. Drill a hole in a scrap of wood to make a little

holder for the tube (bottle). Each time you use it, replace the cap and store it
in the holder CAP DOWN. This should keep liquid CA in the nozzle where you
need it, while the air in the head space migrates upward to the inverted
bottom of the tube. The worst that can happen, if enough moisture comes in
to start to cure the CA, is that a hard film will build up in the bottom of
the bottle, where it's out of the way. Of course, eventually enough will
enter that it will catalyze the remaining CA and the whole rest of the bottle
will get hard, but at least you won't have to fight with plugged nozzles
until that happens.

> > > > Dennis

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In STMFC@..., Rhbale@... wrote:

I have Cyclopedia from 1919, 1931, 1940, 1946, 1953, 1970, and 1984, and only the 1919 edition has the R.P.S. color chips.
Richard Bale

In a message dated 11/26/2011 8:19:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
tyrone.johnsen@... writes:




On page 12 of the 1919 edition, there is a set of paint chips R. P. S.
Railine Products. It is the only edition I have and remember seeing. But, I
was wondering if paint chips were included in other editions, especially the
later editions. I wonder about variation in colors from other sources and
with time and formulation. Always a fan of John Nehrich's writings, I have
some of his old NEB&W Guides and the old magazine articles and remember with
interest his comments on paint evolution.
As my primary modeling interest is September 1950, I am most interested in
the changes in the first half of the 1900s. Of course, lighting of our
models impact the colors, the original color and weathering of the paint over
both steel/iron versus wood is also a very interesting subject.
Tyrone Johnsen
Rockford, IL




_ (http://www.model-railroad-hobbyist.com/)

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

> Just out of curiosity, why do you want them signed?

one word answer: Collectors

longer answer: Higher average resale value of signed books

It helps if the author is deceased. :-)