Date   

Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Andy Harman
 

At 05:14 PM 6/4/2011 -0700, you wrote:

CA was not commercially available until around the late 1970's, so I think you are safe for any date prior to that.
At least three brands were available when I first encountered the stuff in 1972, Krazy Glue, Duradix, and whatever Eastman 910 was at the time.

Andy


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Schuyler Larrabee
 

Original Message -----
From: Stephan

I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying
CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful
applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly
glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut
another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a
sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy
enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).

----- Original Message -----

Perhaps a clear coat or paint rather than CA?

KL

Having used CA as a sort of binder over applications of some rather porous
epoxy steel (non-model railroad application) and finding that it makes a
stronger surface and evidently a stronger material, and also thinking about
how CA is likely to soak into the paper, I am inclined to think that it
would have more of an effect on the strength of the paper strips than a
surface application of clear coat or paint.



Clearly, YMMV.



SGL





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M&StL Marshalltown IA shop abbreviation

Bryan Busséy
 

Folks,

I'm looking for some of the dimensional data for the M&StL 55000-55018
automobile cars after the roofs were raised in early 1941. I'm modeling
the car in N scale after it lost its automobile loaders in 1952, but
prior to it losing the double doors in 1959. I assume that the cars
didn't retain the NEW 2-37 service location/date after any of those
modifications. The roofs were raised at the Marshalltown IA shop.
Would anyone happen to know what service information was marked on these
cars after the roofs were raised? barring that, would anyone know what
the M&StL location code was for Marshalltown? Thanks.

bb


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Bob McCarthy
 

Ah, you HO guys could solve your problems by working in Scale S<G>~!!

Bob McCarthy

Modeling the Mighty Central of Georgia in Scale S

--- On Sat, 6/4/11, jerryglow@... <jerryglow@...> wrote:

From: jerryglow@... <jerryglow@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA
To: STMFC@...
Date: Saturday, June 4, 2011, 10:42 PM







 









You obviously have never attended a car building clinic like the Cocoa Beach "Shaks-and-Takes" where Greg Martin suggests the use of pie pan material. Personally, I like something rigid enough to stick into a drilled hole and bent to shape.



Jerry Glow



--- In STMFC@..., "Stephan" <steve_wintner@...> wrote:

Hey Folks,
I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.
These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues - one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.
I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass joints are not the strongest.
A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility. And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.
I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).
Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.
No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)
Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this technique...cie la vie :-)
have fun
Steve Wintner


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Claus Schlund &#92;(HGM&#92;)
 

Hi Steve and List Members,

Thanks Steve for the idea. Will keep this in mind for future projects.

Steve wrote:

Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone
will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this technique...cie la vie :-)
CA was not commercially available until around the late 1970's, so I think you are safe for any date prior to that.

- Claus Schlund



----- Original Message -----
From: "cj riley" <cjriley42@...>
To: <STMFC@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA


Back in the day when I manufactured kits (Industrial Heritage Scale Models) I found that paper cut and folded then saturated with CA
became like a piece of metal, Perfect for the chutes that loaded steam era hopper cars

CJ Riley

Bainbridge Island WA

--- On Sat, 6/4/11, Stephan <steve_wintner@...> wrote:

From: Stephan <steve_wintner@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA
To: STMFC@...
Date: Saturday, June 4, 2011, 2:04 PM

















Hey Folks,



I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting
roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.



These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues -
one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is
tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.



I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be
somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it
is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass
joints are not the strongest.



A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as
narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a
thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility.
And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.



I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and
folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not,
shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp
Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).



Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.



No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)



Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this
technique...cie la vie :-)



have fun

Steve Wintner


























------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Kurt Laughlin <fleeta@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: Stephan

I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying
CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful
applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly
glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut
another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a
sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy
enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).
----- Original Message -----

Perhaps a clear coat or paint rather than CA?

KL


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

cj riley <cjriley42@...>
 

Back in the day when I manufactured kits (Industrial Heritage Scale Models) I found that paper cut and folded then saturated with CA became like a piece of metal, Perfect for the chutes that loaded steam era hopper cars

CJ Riley

Bainbridge Island WA

--- On Sat, 6/4/11, Stephan <steve_wintner@...> wrote:

From: Stephan <steve_wintner@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA
To: STMFC@...
Date: Saturday, June 4, 2011, 2:04 PM







 









Hey Folks,



I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.



These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues - one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.



I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass joints are not the strongest.



A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility. And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.



I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).



Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.



No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)



Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this technique...cie la vie :-)



have fun

Steve Wintner






















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

jerryglow2
 

You obviously have never attended a car building clinic like the Cocoa Beach "Shaks-and-Takes" where Greg Martin suggests the use of pie pan material. Personally, I like something rigid enough to stick into a drilled hole and bent to shape.

Jerry Glow

--- In STMFC@..., "Stephan" <steve_wintner@...> wrote:

Hey Folks,

I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.

These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues - one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.

I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass joints are not the strongest.

A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility. And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.

I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).

Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.

No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)

Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this technique...cie la vie :-)

have fun
Steve Wintner


More NYC Consists uploaded

rdepennsyfan <pattirobpatti@...>
 

Group, I just uploaded the latest batch of train consists from the New York Central Toledo Division.

Check out the consists from Train NY-4--especially if you like meat reefers! One of the trains was 43 cars long and three-quarters of the cars were RSM or RAM types.

Rob Erickson


New file uploaded to STMFC

STMFC@...
 

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File : /NYC Toledo Div. Consists/1956-07-16 Train NY-4/Train NY4-16July1956-model.doc
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Description :

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New file uploaded to STMFC

STMFC@...
 

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New file uploaded to STMFC

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New file uploaded to STMFC

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New file uploaded to STMFC

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Re: Modelling Techniques - Thin straps - Paper & CA

Tim O'Connor
 

Steve, modelers have long used paper for various purposes. It sounds
like you have found a good use for it.

Another material is good old United States Treasury notes -- i.e. the
dollar bill. This is linen, not paper, and can be folded, glued, bleached,
painted, and cut into tiny pieces. It is also flexible, so some people like
to use this material for passenger car diaphragms! And if it seems like
a waste, a single dollar bill can be used to make several diaphragms, quite
a bit cheaper than commercial detail parts.

Tim O'onnor

I have been fooling about with what I believe is a new technique for representing thin strap steel - e.g. the straps supporting roofwalks, brake platforms, ladders etc.

These would have probably been thin, less than an inch thick. Modelling them with .010 styrene (scale nearly 1") has three issues - one it is a bit thick, two I find the styrene does not take sharp bends well. And building up odd shapes from .010 styrene strip is tough. Thicker styrene is easier to build up shapes with - but is even more out of scale thickness.

I have fiddled about with brass. While available in scale thicknesses of as low as 1/4", and folding readily, cutting can be somewhat problematic, and once it decides to warp or curl, nothing short of a .44 Magnum will convince it to be flat again. Plus it is not very flexible - so folds and cuts better be in exactly the right spot, and trimming to fit is tough. Plus CA resin to brass joints are not the strongest.

A good sheet of typing paper is usually about .004 thick - scale about 3/8ths. It is cheap, folds nicely, is easily cut in strips as narrow as 2 scale inches, can be cut to whatever shape is needed, and can be flattened again when it curls by means of water or a thin coat of thin CA. Once reinforced by a bit of CA I have found it to have a good balance of strength, stiffness, and flexibility. And once glue to resin pieces with CA, it stays put.

I have been laying the flat cut shapes onto a piece of glass, then applying CA, letting dry, and then trimming to length and folding. If one is careful applying the CA to the top of the paper only, the pieces are not too badly glued to the glass. If not, shucks. Scrape it off with a razor blade and cut another one. Trimming to fit once partially attached is easy enough, use a sharp Xacto knife. Major cutting to shape after applying CA should be easy enough too, I ahve not tried that (yet).

Just tossing that out there, in case anyone else feels like fooling about.

No, I am not crazy enough to be using multiple different weights of paper to distinguish between 1/2" and 3/8" steel ;-)

Since there is nothing new under the sun, I am sure next someone will point out an article from a 1950s issue of MR using this technique...cie la vie :-)

have fun
Steve Wintner


New file uploaded to STMFC

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New file uploaded to STMFC

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