On 05/18/2021 12:03 PM Benjamin Hom <b.hom@...> wrote:

I seem to remember drawings in Mainline Modeler, but I don't have the reference information handy.  Hopefully someone has it handy.

 

 

The May 1984 issue of M.M. has drawings of a very similar ACL flat. The March 1989 issue has a Mont Switzer article about building the Tichy model with a road grader load.

Photo: PRR Merchandise Boxcar 53312 Upended (1956)

A photo from the Temple University Archives:

https://digital.library.temple.edu/digital/collection/p15037coll3/id/67198/rec/4

Click on the arrows and scroll to enlarge.

Pennsylvania Railroad's 44th Street Yard.

Bob Chaparro

Hemet, CA

As you stated the problem that you may encounter will be the large difference in both thermal and hygroscopic expansion rates between the styrene and the joint compound. As for dust, I’ve used one of these for years and they work great. No mess at all.

https://hydetools.com/product/dust-free-vacuum-hand-sander-kit/

Also there are “low dust joint compound” products that produce significantly less dust than traditional joint compounds. Not really sure how they work, but they do work.

Kevin L.

Dennis,

That sounds easy enough. I’ll give the dry wall compound a try. I used in on the joints on my Masonite branchline backdrop, and it hasn’t cracked in the three year’s it’s been in place. The coefficient of expansion is different for styrene and Masonite, so we’ll see in time if it works. The only problem with drywall compound is the dust!

Nelson Moyer

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

Actually, since you've already primed the styrene with something that should bond to it, I would just use drywall taping compound. The bond between taping compound and styrene would be questionable, but taping compound sticks tenaciously to painted surfaces, so should be OK>

Dennis Storzek

Dennis,

That sounds easy enough. I’ll give the dry wall compound a try. I used in on the joints on my Masonite branchline backdrop, and it hasn’t cracked in the three year’s it’s been in place. The coefficient of expansion is different for styrene and Masonite, so we’ll see in time if it works. The only problem with drywall compound is the dust!

Nelson Moyer

On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 03:59 PM, Nelson Moyer wrote:

I want a product that sands like styrene, so two part hard drying products aren’t acceptable. Ideally, the product should sand like drywall compound. I primed the backdrop with light gray Krylon Fusion, and sanding marks are evident at the joints. The final sky paint is latex, which I expect will fill minor surface imperfections from sanding.

Actually, since you've already primed the styrene with something that should bond to it, I would just use drywall taping compound. The bond between taping compound and styrene would be questionable, but taping compound sticks tenaciously to painted surfaces, so should be OK>

Dennis Storzek

Actually the tankcars are marked Jacob E Decker JEDX 50-73, leased from North American Car Co.

Interesting tank car off to the left, also marked “Hygrade.”

Schuyler

I do have one photo of a HyGrade reefer, circa 1929. The attached photo is of the loading area of the Decker meat plant in Mason City, from a Decker Brochure. The reefer with the prominent “Decker” on the side is actually a Mather Reefer leased to HyGrade, the reporting marks are partially visible on the end of the car. The late Richard Hendrickson made the identification.

This is what I have on HyGrade the company. I do not have anything on their reefers, and all my reference material is packed for an upcoming move.

Hygrade Food Products dates back to the 1800s. To Central Hanover Bank & Trust in 1929

The Storm Lake IA plant was opened in 1935 by Kingan & Co of Indianapolis and Nash Brothers. Kingan bought out Nash Brothers in 1937. Kingan was purchased by HyGrade in 1952.

In April 1982, IBP bought the old Storm Lake plant from Hygrade for $2.5 million. The Storm Lake workers were not welcomed back. Hundreds applied for positions at the new plant, but fewer than thirty were hired. Wages averaged $7 per hour, or $14,600 per year – less than half the average salary of the old workers. IBP imported a largely immigrant work force to man the plant.

Hygrade purchased Carstens Packing Co of Tacoma WA in 1952 and closed the plant in 1990. Carstens was the largest independent meat packer on the west coast.

HyGrade purchased Kingan of Indianapolis in 1954

HyGrade acquired F Schenk & Sons of Wheeling OH

Hygrade sold to Sara Lee in 1989

I don’t know how correct it is, but Red Caboose produced a Mather wood meat reefer with Hygrade on it about 20 years ago. I have one HFPX 2793. I believe Hygrade was formed in 1951. I look forward to this discussion.

J. Stephen Sandifer

Hi guys,

On Terry Link's canadasouthern site is a consist with two HFPX reefers numbered 1614 and 1618. Does anyone have more information about this series? I would like to model a Hygrade's reefer but know little about them.

-Phil Lee

----- Original Message -----

From: Schuyler Larrabee via groups.io

To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:55 PM

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

And isn’t this just to the left?

 

Schuyler

 

From: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io> On Behalf Of Claus Schlund \(HGM\)
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 3:51 PM
To: STMFC <main@RealSTMFC.groups.io>
Subject: [RealSTMFC] partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction

 

Hi List Members,

 

A partial view of a VGN hopper with unusual hopper door construction.

 

As far as I am able to tell, this car is VGN 6383, part of series 6000-6999, 32'6" IL, 11,000 lb capacity.

 

There is also a partial view of a C&O twin hopper.

 

https://wvhistoryonview.org/catalog/002031

 

Enjoy!

 

Claus Schlund

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Lester Breuer

To: main@RealSTMFC.groups.io

Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 4:25 PM

Subject: Re: [RealSTMFC] putty to smooth a joint between two sections of a plastic model

 

I stopped using Squadron Green long ago as in my opinion worked ok only if a new opened  tube.   I use MEK Goop made up with scrap styrene plastic and MEK as already described.  If used a very fine wire applicator (photo attached) to apply.  I also use Testor’s putty in grey tube with white letteing.  The putty is white in color, applies easily and does not shrink.  If in a hurry either of these can be set quickly with an application of CA.   Both of these old school; however, work week for me.  Another old one is to fill crack with baking soda followed application of CA.   There are many new putties on the market today, some made especially for plastic, that all work well.  Just takes time to find one you are comfortable working with.
Keep Modeling,
Lester  Breuer