Date   

Re: Sunshine Models Decal Replacement

Jim Hayes
 

Yes they do.

Jim Hayes
Portland Oregon
www.sunshinekits.com

On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 3:27 PM, Riley K <riley050748@...> wrote:



Does Sunshine sell replacement decals for kits still in production? Thanks,

R Kinney



Sunshine Models Decal Replacement

Riley K <riley050748@...>
 

Does Sunshine sell replacement decals for kits still in production? Thanks,

R Kinney


Re: shipping kits

Andy Carlson
 

I got a Ebay Negative feedback from an irate buyer of a railroad book because 30
days from the bid closing, he still did not have the book. On the next day, the
book showed up. He felt bad, I got stuck with the - feedback, and the post
office had his book for over 4 weeks, shipping from Southern California to
Northern California--media rate. Probably fell behind a box or something, only
to be discovered weeks later.
-Andy Carlson
Ojai CA





________________________________
From: Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 1:05:31 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: shipping kits



Technically magazines are not eligible for media mail rates. But in
any case I think 27 days to go 200 miles sounds like the truck broke
down, lost its brakes, rolled down an embankment, and was lost in the
woods for 24 days. Not a typical case.

Tim O'Connor

At 9/29/2010 12:49 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Carey,
Not sure but I think there is a difference between "bulk" media rates
and "media" rates.
Just got a book from Western Ohio in 2 days to Central Virginia via
"media rate".
Chuck Hladik



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: shipping kits

Tim O'Connor
 

Technically magazines are not eligible for media mail rates. But in
any case I think 27 days to go 200 miles sounds like the truck broke
down, lost its brakes, rolled down an embankment, and was lost in the
woods for 24 days. Not a typical case.

Tim O'Connor

At 9/29/2010 12:49 PM Wednesday, you wrote:
Carey,
Not sure but I think there is a difference between "bulk" media rates
and "media" rates.
Just got a book from Western Ohio in 2 days to Central Virginia via
"media rate".
Chuck Hladik


Re: Air brush suggestions...

Tim O'Connor
 

Brilliant! Wish I'd thought of that. :-)

Tim O'

I mix the small amounts of paint in a cheap shot glass. The
"Dollar" stores often have any number of varieties.....and I
often get shot glasses with some graduations on the outside.

Mal Houck


Re: Air Brush suggestions ...

Jim Betz
 

Jack,

If you can't find glass eye droppers - or what you need - any
where else try LabPro on Anvilwood Ct. in Sunnyvale.

http://www.lab-proinc.com/

They have just about every size and shape of glass ware you
might imagine. And although their main business is in
commercial quantities they also sell walk-in retail. Plan to
spend a 1/2 hour just browsing the 4 or 5 small aisles the
first time you go there. *G*

For small quantities I usually mix directly in the cup by
"counting the drops" in order to get the shade and thinning
I want. You can also mix in a bottle and transfer to the
cup.
- Jim


Re: New Tahoe Model Works Truck

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill, I don't know if this truck matches the Tahoe truck
but it may match Kadee's 70 ton truck. This is a Santa Fe
Ga-105 built in 1957

http://gelwood.railfan.net/atsf/atsf82295ags.jpg

Tim O'Connor

Can anyone specify just which cars used this truck on the SP and SF?
Bill Pardie


Re: Air brush suggestions...

ed_mines
 

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:
The instructions (which are in Japanese with poor translations) show adding
"stuff" to the airbrush cup using a plastic squeeze bottle with a inverted
"U" shaped spout. However, I use solvent-based Floquil paint nearly
exclusively so plastic containers seem questionable.
Jack -Those plastic bottles (called wash bottles) are polyethylene, inert to almost all solvents. (They will allow some solvents to slowly diffuse through the plastic).

I've always used disposable lab pipettes (polyethylene) for transferring paint which I used to get from work. I thought they were inexpensive but McMasters and Cole Palmer sell them for about $25/100. (My recollection is we bought 1000 for that price.)

I know there are some businesses that sell used medical supplies (I had an employer who shared warehouse space with one of them). They buy out hospitals going out of business, doctors offices that are closing, test labs that are closing.....and refurbish and sell the equipment. They sell the supplies to veternarians. See if you can find one in the phone book. Get some surgical blades too if they have them. They make exacto blades look like a plastic knife from KFC.

Ed


Re: New Tahoe Model Works Truck

brianleppert@att.net
 

Bill, Southern Pacific cars that used the 70-ton A-3 Ride Control trucks included hoppers of H-70-7, 9, 11, 13, 15 and 17 classes, covered hoppers of H-70-8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and 18 classes, gons of G-70-7, 8 and 11 classes, and flat car class F-70-10.

The Santa Fe book I need to look at is out at work, and I'm not.

There are only very minor differences between A-3 trucks made by the different foundries (ASF, Scullin, Buckeye, etc.) My HO truck has Scullin's foundry mark and the raised "ride control" lettering across the top of the face, rather than across the spring seat lip.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV

--- In STMFC@..., WILLIAM PARDIE <PARDIEW001@...> wrote:
Can anyone specify just
which cars used this truck on the SP and SF?

Thanks in advance:

Bill Pardie


Re: Air brush suggestions

Larry Kline
 

I use small (3 oz. / 2 in. high) paper cups to thin and mix paint for my 50 year old, siphon feed Paasche model H. I make a spout by pinching the paper cup to make pouring easier. I throw the cup away when after one or a few uses. I use wood dowels to stir paint in the bottle and in the cups. I just wipe the dowels off after using them.

Larry Kline
Pittsburgh, PA


New Tahoe Model Works Truck

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

I just received a flier from TMW for their new American Steel Foundries A-3 70 Ton trucks. Brian
does a super job on his trucks and he always list the railroads that used the trucks. He includes
SP and Santa FE for this truck, however, when checking Tony's SP books and Richard's SF
offerings I cannot find cars that I have modeled that used this truck. Can anyone specify just
which cars used this truck on the SP and SF?

Thanks in advance:

Bill Pardie


Re: Truck Wish List

SUVCWORR@...
 

Bill,

I'll second your request for Chrysler trucks and add to it Young, Barrett-Whitehead and Symington-Gould.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 8:32 am
Subject: [STMFC] Truck Wish List


I was intrigued by appeals to Kadee for trucks but wanted to respect
Brian Leppert's efforts with his offerings and willingness to listen
also so I wanted to make a non partisan appeal for Chrysler trucks,
which admittedly were applied to a relatively limited number of cars.
Ducking for cover now.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764
727.470.9930
fgexbill@...







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Air brush suggestions...

VINCE PUGLIESE
 

I initially used a glass eyedropper to transfer paint into a gravity-feed
airbrush but found I would be wasting paint in the dropper as well as
having to clean it out. I then switched to disposable eye droppers which I
bought in bulk but quickly tired of this approach as again there was paint
wasted in the dropper. I remedied this by having thinner nearby which I would
siphon into the dropper and then transfer into the cup as a way of both cleaning
the dropper and recovering the remaining paint. Bear in mind that using this
approach will thin your paint somewhat more but you can compensate for this
quite easily.

Now, however I simply use a stirring rod (there are metal and glass ones
available including these very cleverly designed ones from Tamiya
(http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=74017) and transfer the
paint by holding the stirrer vertically in the cup and pouring the paint so that
it flows down the stirrer. Simple math would dictate that in order to hold the
airbrush, a 3rd hand is required but here is where that other essential piece of
kit is required: an airbrush stand to hold your airbrush while transferring the
paint. These are inexpensive (check out
http://www.bearair.com/Airbrush-Holder-W_Reg-Bracket/productinfo/110467/) and
are essential in my opinion in order to keep things tidy.

Yet another way is to simply use a brush to transfer paint to the airbrush while
it is docked in the stand.

.vp





________________________________
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...>
To: Steam Era Freight Cars <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wed, September 29, 2010 8:20:16 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Air brush suggestions...

 
I am in need of some suggestions. No, not what airbrush to buy (I already
have a couple) but how to add paint to a new one. After probably 40 years of
using double-action, bottom-feed (bottle-type) Badger airbrushes, I bought
an Iwata gravity-feed cup HP-C Plus airbrush at the Milwaukee NMRA
Convention. My question is on how to get paint into the gravity-feed cup on
this new airbrush.

With the Badger bottom-feed air brushes, I'd mix the paint in one of several
glass bottles, put on the lid, and attach it to the airbrush. But with the
new gravity-feed airbrush, I need an easy, logical way to mix the paint and
"pour" it into the airbrush cup without making a mess. Once I'm done, I need
an easy way to add solvent to the airbrush cup to clean things up.

The instructions (which are in Japanese with poor translations) show adding
"stuff" to the airbrush cup using a plastic squeeze bottle with a inverted
"U" shaped spout. However, I use solvent-based Floquil paint nearly
exclusively so plastic containers seem questionable. (No, I'm not going to
change to water-based paints.)

So, others who have used gravity-feed airbrushes with solvent-based
paints...

What do you use to mix paints that is easy to clean afterward?
Do you have any tricks for pouring the mixed paint into the airbrush cup
without spilling?
Likewise, any special tricks to pouring solvent into the airbrush cup
without spilling?

Jack Burgess
Newark, CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Air brush suggestions...

SUVCWORR@...
 

Jack,

I have a friend who is a veterinarian. A number of years ago, he bought a long established practice. Along with this came a supply of glass syringes which he did not want. I acquired a few of various sizes and use these to fill the cup. Since they are glass they are impervious to the solvents and are easy to clean. No need for needles so I don't have the problem of find them.

An alternative would be to purchase Nalgene pipettes which are impervious to most solvents and available through chemical supply houses.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Burgess <jack@...>
To: Steam Era Freight Cars <STMFC@...>
Sent: Wed, Sep 29, 2010 8:20 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Air brush suggestions...


I am in need of some suggestions. No, not what airbrush to buy (I already
have a couple) but how to add paint to a new one. After probably 40 years of
using double-action, bottom-feed (bottle-type) Badger airbrushes, I bought
an Iwata gravity-feed cup HP-C Plus airbrush at the Milwaukee NMRA
Convention. My question is on how to get paint into the gravity-feed cup on
this new airbrush.

With the Badger bottom-feed air brushes, I'd mix the paint in one of several
glass bottles, put on the lid, and attach it to the airbrush. But with the
new gravity-feed airbrush, I need an easy, logical way to mix the paint and
"pour" it into the airbrush cup without making a mess. Once I'm done, I need
an easy way to add solvent to the airbrush cup to clean things up.

The instructions (which are in Japanese with poor translations) show adding
"stuff" to the airbrush cup using a plastic squeeze bottle with a inverted
"U" shaped spout. However, I use solvent-based Floquil paint nearly
exclusively so plastic containers seem questionable. (No, I'm not going to
change to water-based paints.)

So, others who have used gravity-feed airbrushes with solvent-based
paints...

What do you use to mix paints that is easy to clean afterward?
Do you have any tricks for pouring the mixed paint into the airbrush cup
without spilling?
Likewise, any special tricks to pouring solvent into the airbrush cup
without spilling?

Jack Burgess
Newark, CA






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Air brush suggestions...

Bruce Smith
 

Um Doug,

Jack say that he has an Iwata in the first paragraph... and that's why he's asking these questions (and no need to shout).

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Sep 30, 2010, at 7:24 AM, dakkinder wrote:

BUY AN IWATA !
Doug Kinder

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:

I am in need of some suggestions. No, not what airbrush to buy (I already
have a couple) but how to add paint to a new one. After probably 40 years of
using double-action, bottom-feed (bottle-type) Badger airbrushes, I bought
an Iwata gravity-feed cup HP-C Plus airbrush at the Milwaukee NMRA
Convention. My question is on how to get paint into the gravity- feed cup on
this new airbrush.

With the Badger bottom-feed air brushes, I'd mix the paint in one of several
glass bottles, put on the lid, and attach it to the airbrush. But with the
new gravity-feed airbrush, I need an easy, logical way to mix the paint and
"pour" it into the airbrush cup without making a mess. Once I'm done, I need
an easy way to add solvent to the airbrush cup to clean things up.

The instructions (which are in Japanese with poor translations) show adding
"stuff" to the airbrush cup using a plastic squeeze bottle with a inverted
"U" shaped spout. However, I use solvent-based Floquil paint nearly
exclusively so plastic containers seem questionable. (No, I'm not going to
change to water-based paints.)

So, others who have used gravity-feed airbrushes with solvent-based
paints...

What do you use to mix paints that is easy to clean afterward?
Do you have any tricks for pouring the mixed paint into the airbrush cup
without spilling?
Likewise, any special tricks to pouring solvent into the airbrush cup
without spilling?

Jack Burgess
Newark, CA





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Truck Wish List

Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
 

Bill,
 
 
No need to duck, there are many on this list who can use the Chrysler truck.
I'm still hoping for a PRR Keisel truck, used for tenders and B60b baggage cars.
 
Fred Freitas

--- On Thu, 9/30/10, Bill Welch <fgexbill@...> wrote:


From: Bill Welch <fgexbill@...>
Subject: [STMFC] Truck Wish List
To: STMFC@...
Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010, 8:32 AM


 



I was intrigued by appeals to Kadee for trucks but wanted to respect
Brian Leppert's efforts with his offerings and willingness to listen
also so I wanted to make a non partisan appeal for Chrysler trucks,
which admittedly were applied to a relatively limited number of cars.
Ducking for cover now.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764
727.470.9930
fgexbill@...










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Truck Wish List

Bill Welch
 

I was intrigued by appeals to Kadee for trucks but wanted to respect
Brian Leppert's efforts with his offerings and willingness to listen
also so I wanted to make a non partisan appeal for Chrysler trucks,
which admittedly were applied to a relatively limited number of cars.
Ducking for cover now.

Bill Welch
2225 Nursery Road; #20-104
Clearwater, FL 33764
727.470.9930
fgexbill@...


Re: Air brush suggestions...

dakkinder
 

BUY AN IWATA !
Doug Kinder

--- In STMFC@..., "Jack Burgess" <jack@...> wrote:

I am in need of some suggestions. No, not what airbrush to buy (I already
have a couple) but how to add paint to a new one. After probably 40 years of
using double-action, bottom-feed (bottle-type) Badger airbrushes, I bought
an Iwata gravity-feed cup HP-C Plus airbrush at the Milwaukee NMRA
Convention. My question is on how to get paint into the gravity-feed cup on
this new airbrush.

With the Badger bottom-feed air brushes, I'd mix the paint in one of several
glass bottles, put on the lid, and attach it to the airbrush. But with the
new gravity-feed airbrush, I need an easy, logical way to mix the paint and
"pour" it into the airbrush cup without making a mess. Once I'm done, I need
an easy way to add solvent to the airbrush cup to clean things up.

The instructions (which are in Japanese with poor translations) show adding
"stuff" to the airbrush cup using a plastic squeeze bottle with a inverted
"U" shaped spout. However, I use solvent-based Floquil paint nearly
exclusively so plastic containers seem questionable. (No, I'm not going to
change to water-based paints.)

So, others who have used gravity-feed airbrushes with solvent-based
paints...

What do you use to mix paints that is easy to clean afterward?
Do you have any tricks for pouring the mixed paint into the airbrush cup
without spilling?
Likewise, any special tricks to pouring solvent into the airbrush cup
without spilling?

Jack Burgess
Newark, CA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Air brush suggestions...

Malcolm H. Houck
 

What do you use to mix paints that is easy to clean afterward?
Do you have any tricks for pouring the mixed paint into the
airbrush cup without spilling?


I mix the small amounts of paint in a cheap shot glass. The
"Dollar" stores often have any number of varieties.....and I
often get shot glasses with some graduations on the outside.


Being glass, the shot glasses are easy to clean. Pour empty,
wipe out and wipe with solvent. From these discount stores
the glasses are so cheap I treat them as ultimately disposable
and do not hesitate to throw them away if for some reason
I can't get any one of them clean.

To pour first hold the brush in an air brush holder. You can fill
the cup by using a pipette or eyedropper as suggested, or you
can pour directly. When pouring place a mixing stick in the cup and
pour down the "track" of the stick. No spill, no drip, no mess.

Mal Houck


Inspiration for Underbody Air Brake Connections

gary laakso
 

In between working on truss rod boxcars and WFEX/BREX/FGEX truss rod reefers, I came across these derailment pictures showing underbody detailing! None of the NP truss rod boxcars derailed!

http://wrvmuseum.pastperfect-online.com/30869cgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=1CFDD4E9-9E3E-479F-91B8-621220164566;type=102


gary laakso
south of Mike Brock
vasa0vasa@...

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