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Re: Polyester shim material

Bruce Smith
 

On Sep 9, 2009, at 9:31 AM, Rob Kirkham wrote:

I take your point Bruce, but doesn't using thicker material in the first
place just compound that problem where the overlaps occur?
Hmmm... I see your point. Of course, you want all the courses to appear to be the same thickness, so I think you are forced to use something that will resist the problem. You might also fill and sand the areas where one course will overlap another to make a smooth, rather than stepped, transition.

Regards
Bruce

Bruce F. Smith
Auburn, AL
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/index.pl/bruce_f._smith2

"Some days you are the bug, some days you are the windshield."
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Re: Polyester shim material

Robert kirkham
 

I take your point Bruce, but doesn't using thicker material in the first place just compound that problem where the overlaps occur?

I'm applying the first wrappers to a nice smooth cylinder. If they can be glued with solvent, there shouldn't be a texture. The next course over top (the bottom horizontal course) can be .005 (and you might talk me in to .010"). I think I can get away with it - or at least would like to try. Assuming a suitable material can be found.

Rob Kirkham

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Smith" <smithbf@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 5:56 AM
To: <STMFC@...>
Subject: Re: [STMFC] Polyester shim material

Rob,

I don't think you're going to be happy with the results with very
thin wrappers, whatever you use. The problem with things such as
bare metal foil is that it shows the contours of what is beneath
it... tank car courses do not. Even 0.005" styrene needs to be
handled carefully so as not to show a bump where the adjacent course
is beneath it. FWIW, bare metal foil takes and holds paint nicely.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL


Re: Polyester shim material

Bruce Smith
 

Rob,

I don't think you're going to be happy with the results with very thin wrappers, whatever you use. The problem with things such as bare metal foil is that it shows the contours of what is beneath it... tank car courses do not. Even 0.005" styrene needs to be handled carefully so as not to show a bump where the adjacent course is beneath it. FWIW, bare metal foil takes and holds paint nicely.

Regards
Bruce Smith
Auburn, AL

On Sep 8, 2009, at 8:01 PM, Rob Kirkham wrote:

I'm working on a tank car model, and want to add tank courses that are
slimmer than the .005" styrene sheet available from Evergreen. I feel the
thickness is an issue especially when modelling areas where multiple
overlapping radial courses are themselves overlapped by another sheet. On
tanks with a horizontal lower course and radial upper courses, this
situation is often found along the long horizontal seam at the top edges of
the lower course.

I have considered using Bare Metal Foil, but it is a product largely unknown
to me and I am not confident of my ability to paint it and keep the paint
from scratching off over time. I also think its a bit too slim for the
purpose. I prefer to use something closer to styrene if there is a viable
alternative.

To that end, I wonder whether anyone on list has used the various plastic
shim materials sold by McMaster-Carr. I do not see thin styrene, but they
include polyester sheet materials in several thicknesses that are slimmer
than .005" styrene. If you have used the polyester sheet, I'd like to hear
what you thought of it, including:

- does it have a smooth finish suitable for modelling a steel panel?

- how does it work with glues? and

- how do model paints adhere to it?

For example, will solvent type cement bond it to styrene? Alternatively,
what about CA?
Can any of you suggest another product that might fit the purpose better?


Thanks in advance

Rob Kirkham



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

leakinmywaders
 

Clark: Briefly, you split the roof down the middle and cut out the midsection and rejoin the rest--the splice is hidden by the running board. You trim the ends of the crossbears, crossties and bolsters to narrow the frame and floor.

Ed Ursem published a clear, nicely illustrated walk-through article on the conversion in NPRHA's magazine Mainstreeter, Vol. 25 No.1, like the ends it's available at the Company Store link at nprha.org.

Chris Frissell


Chris Frissell
Polson, MT

--- In STMFC@..., Clark Cooper <csc@...> wrote:

Not having access to the cited article, a dumb question: what has to
be done to the floor, underframe, and roof in order to use these ends?

-Clark Cooper


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

leakinmywaders
 

Tim's formula looks really good. Or if you prefer an acrylic paint, try Modelflex Light Tuscan Oxide Red 3:1 with Modelflex Rust, then mix in a couple drops of white until you can just see it start to lighten. This gets you a color that's close the fresh NP mineral red. For a well-aged stock car, add maybe 20 percent maroon tuscan oxide red and then a drop or two more white. Airbrush unthinned at 12-15 ppi to keep it satin smooth.

BTW, builders photos first supplied to me by Matt Herson show that the interior of these cars was unpainted wood. There were small interior stencils over the doors with the car number and some other information. Now there's some rarely trodden ground in freight car modeling.

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:

Bill

A formula that looks pretty good on the stock cars IMO:

1 part Floquil #74 box car red
1 part Floquil #88 DH10 caboose red

The above was recommended in Mainline Modeler 8/1990. I'd say
it resembles aged paint, not fresh paint.

Tim O'Connor


free stuff

Al and Patricia Westerfield <westerfield@...>
 

The free stuff is gone. Maybe more later as I clean out neglected black holes. - Al Westerfield


Re: 1913 & 1917 ORERs

estcbq@...
 

results on the 1913 ORER is the file is damaged and not repairable--jim young

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Mathu <mark@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 6:52 pm
Subject: [STMFC] 1913 & 1917 ORERs






Full versions of the 2/1913 & 6/1917 Official Railway Equipment Registers
are on-line at Google Books:
http://books.google.com/books?q=%22official+railway+equipment+register%22&as
_brr=1

__________
Mark Mathu
Whitefish Bay, Wis.
The Green Bay Route: http://www.greenbayroute.com/


Polyester shim material

Robert kirkham
 

I'm working on a tank car model, and want to add tank courses that are slimmer than the .005" styrene sheet available from Evergreen. I feel the thickness is an issue especially when modelling areas where multiple overlapping radial courses are themselves overlapped by another sheet. On tanks with a horizontal lower course and radial upper courses, this situation is often found along the long horizontal seam at the top edges of the lower course.

I have considered using Bare Metal Foil, but it is a product largely unknown to me and I am not confident of my ability to paint it and keep the paint from scratching off over time. I also think its a bit too slim for the purpose. I prefer to use something closer to styrene if there is a viable alternative.

To that end, I wonder whether anyone on list has used the various plastic shim materials sold by McMaster-Carr. I do not see thin styrene, but they include polyester sheet materials in several thicknesses that are slimmer than .005" styrene. If you have used the polyester sheet, I'd like to hear what you thought of it, including:

- does it have a smooth finish suitable for modelling a steel panel?

- how does it work with glues? and

- how do model paints adhere to it?

For example, will solvent type cement bond it to styrene? Alternatively, what about CA?
Can any of you suggest another product that might fit the purpose better?


Thanks in advance

Rob Kirkham


Paint color for Central Valley NP stock car

gary laakso
 

Do you recommend a light primer since the CV plastic used in the stock car kit is black? If so, what color?

gary laakso
south of Mike Brock
vasa0vasa@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim O'Connor
To: STMFC@...
Sent: 9/8/2009 8:40:01 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car


Bill

A formula that looks pretty good on the stock cars IMO:

1 part Floquil #74 box car red
1 part Floquil #88 DH10 caboose red

The above was recommended in Mainline Modeler 8/1990. I'd say
it resembles aged paint, not fresh paint.

Tim O'Connor

At 9/8/2009 07:47 PM Tuesday, you wrote:
Not having access to the cited article, a dumb question: what has to
be done to the floor, underframe, and roof in order to use these ends?

-Clark Cooper

On Sep 8, 2009, at 5:19 AM, Bill Welch wrote:

I notice that the NPHS offers corrected ends for the CV stock car to
properly narrow the car, but they offer them packaged to do four
cars. As I only want to do one car, I am wondering if there is anyone
on this list that has one pair they want to sell? Alternatively, are
there 1-3 people who want to split up a packet?

Bill Welch
fgexbill@...


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

Tim O'Connor
 

Bill

A formula that looks pretty good on the stock cars IMO:

1 part Floquil #74 box car red
1 part Floquil #88 DH10 caboose red

The above was recommended in Mainline Modeler 8/1990. I'd say
it resembles aged paint, not fresh paint.

Tim O'Connor

At 9/8/2009 07:47 PM Tuesday, you wrote:
Not having access to the cited article, a dumb question: what has to
be done to the floor, underframe, and roof in order to use these ends?

-Clark Cooper

On Sep 8, 2009, at 5:19 AM, Bill Welch wrote:

I notice that the NPHS offers corrected ends for the CV stock car to
properly narrow the car, but they offer them packaged to do four
cars. As I only want to do one car, I am wondering if there is anyone
on this list that has one pair they want to sell? Alternatively, are
there 1-3 people who want to split up a packet?

Bill Welch
fgexbill@...


Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

Bill Welch
 

Hello Friends

The response regarding these ends has sort of been overwhelming, with at least three offers for a free pair. When time permits I will compose and send an email to those that contacted me offline and try to make sure everyones needs are met.

Bill Welch


Re: ORER QUESTION

bierglaeser <bierglaeser@...>
 

Perhaps not everyone but you've made many of us a lot happier.

Gene Green

--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <b.leppert@...> wrote:

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@> wrote:

Brian

I was VERY bummed to read that the trucks you made were not
correct for the DT&I cars because of the spring plank. Did I
understand that correctly? That means they're also not correct
for the NP exDT&I cars. :-(

Tim O'Connor
Sorry, Tim. I can't make everybody happy. :>(

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

Clark Cooper
 

Not having access to the cited article, a dumb question: what has to be done to the floor, underframe, and roof in order to use these ends?

-Clark Cooper

On Sep 8, 2009, at 5:19 AM, Bill Welch wrote:

I notice that the NPHS offers corrected ends for the CV stock car to
properly narrow the car, but they offer them packaged to do four
cars. As I only want to do one car, I am wondering if there is anyone
on this list that has one pair they want to sell? Alternatively, are
there 1-3 people who want to split up a packet?

Bill Welch
fgexbill@...


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

Steve SANDIFER
 

Is there a good paint choice for the "correct" color?
______________
J. Stephen (Steve) Sandifer
mailto:steve.sandifer@...
Home: 12027 Mulholland Drive, Meadows Place, TX 77477, 281-568-9918
Office: Southwest Central Church of Christ, 4011 W. Bellfort, Houston, TX 77025, 713-667-9417

----- Original Message -----
From: leakinmywaders
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: [STMFC] Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car


Steve: Actually the "new" color of the NP stock cars was the NP's standard mineral red, which is a shade of boxcar red that runs heavily to rusty red-orange. On some cars this color shifted toward Tuscan with age, but actually far less so on wood than metal cars (yes the NP's 50s-built steel-sided Pig Palace stock cars were darkening toward Tuscan by the time they slipped off the purview of this list...). The wood stock cars like the CV model didn't get frequent repaints, so they tended to go from mineral red to slightly-redder peeling mineral red with gray bleached wood and oxidized gray metal roof.

Chris Frissell
Rivetenumerator, MT

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:
...
> I was real proud of the car I built until I went over to Mike Spoors layout and saw that it was 1' too wide and painted it the wrong color (should be Tuscan).


Re: ORER QUESTION

SUVCWORR@...
 

The information I cited was from one of the PRR ORER pages on the CD's sold by Al Westefield.? I do not have the issue marked down and would need to go through all the end notes for the ORER's to find it again.? Since these are jpeg files they are not searchable.

Rich Orr

-----Original Message-----
From: leakinmywaders <leakinmywaders@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 2:16 pm
Subject: [STMFC] Re: ORER QUESTION










Brian: You have a good point there, and I'll temper my report on this
accordingly. Sounds like maybe Rich knows of a Pennsy AFE or lease agreement,
but I haven't seen it. I also don't have the DT&I diagram sheet info, or an
early shot of the cars that might show wording in a lease stencil.

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT

--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <b.leppert@...> wrote:

These cars are listed as DT&I #12000-12399 in the April 1938 ORER. I cannot
find any mention of them being leased from PRR in that issue.

Maybe Pennsy paid for them, but I'll argue that they were built new for the
DT&I and never operated by Pennsy. My opinion is based solely that they don't
have the expected PRR 2D-F12 trucks, but rather a truck favored by DT&I.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

leakinmywaders
 

Steve: Actually the "new" color of the NP stock cars was the NP's standard mineral red, which is a shade of boxcar red that runs heavily to rusty red-orange. On some cars this color shifted toward Tuscan with age, but actually far less so on wood than metal cars (yes the NP's 50s-built steel-sided Pig Palace stock cars were darkening toward Tuscan by the time they slipped off the purview of this list...). The wood stock cars like the CV model didn't get frequent repaints, so they tended to go from mineral red to slightly-redder peeling mineral red with gray bleached wood and oxidized gray metal roof.

Chris Frissell
Rivetenumerator, MT

--- In STMFC@..., "Steve Sandifer" <steve.sandifer@...> wrote:
...
I was real proud of the car I built until I went over to Mike Spoors layout and saw that it was 1' too wide and painted it the wrong color (should be Tuscan).


Re: ORER QUESTION

leakinmywaders
 

Brian: You have a good point there, and I'll temper my report on this accordingly. Sounds like maybe Rich knows of a Pennsy AFE or lease agreement, but I haven't seen it. I also don't have the DT&I diagram sheet info, or an early shot of the cars that might show wording in a lease stencil.

Chris Frissell
Polson, MT

--- In STMFC@..., "brianleppert@..." <b.leppert@...> wrote:

These cars are listed as DT&I #12000-12399 in the April 1938 ORER. I cannot find any mention of them being leased from PRR in that issue.

Maybe Pennsy paid for them, but I'll argue that they were built new for the DT&I and never operated by Pennsy. My opinion is based solely that they don't have the expected PRR 2D-F12 trucks, but rather a truck favored by DT&I.

Brian Leppert
Carson City, NV


Re: ORER QUESTION

brianleppert@att.net <b.leppert@...>
 

--- In STMFC@..., Tim O'Connor <timboconnor@...> wrote:


So which roads had the spring plank version of the trucks? I
don't think you made that distinction in earlier emails. I'm
guessing PRR is one of them.

Thanks
Tim
Tim, one of these days (soon, I hope) I'll get my notes together and post a list here of what cars and RRs I've found that used the double truss Coil-Elliptic trucks. Hopefully I'll get additions/corrections from members.

C&O, some CGW, Erie, some LNE, N&W, VGN and WM used these trucks with spring planks. BAR, DT&I and SHPX had spring-plankless versions.

PRR had one or two designs of double truss, coil-elliptic trucks. The 70-ton version had a spring plank. I don't know about the 50-ton.

Brian Leppert
Tahoe Model Works
Carson City, NV


Naperville

rialco490 <lebert1942@...>
 

Hi Is there anyone going to Naperville who may not to share a room if so please contact me I have a room for two Thanks Lee


Re: Corrected Ends for Central Valley NP stock car

WILLIAM PARDIE
 

Bill:

Will be happy to take a set of ends. You can contact me off list at pardiew001@...
.

Bill Pardie

On Sep 8, 2009, at 12:19 AM, Bill Welch wrote:

I notice that the NPHS offers corrected ends for the CV stock car to
properly narrow the car, but they offer them packaged to do four
cars. As I only want to do one car, I am wondering if there is anyone
on this list that has one pair they want to sell? Alternatively, are
there 1-3 people who want to split up a packet?

Bill Welch
fgexbill@...

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