I believe it is now called "Pledge with Future Shine"

http://www.floorcareproducts.com/floor-finish/index.asp

I bought about a quart a few years ago. Figure that you *might* use an ounce or two a year. . .

I keep mine in a closed cabinet and it has no hint of yellowing.

KL

Brian,
I'm a big fan of the Scalecoat flat and gloss finishes.
Admittedly they are lacquer base, but they have yet to let me down. I left the Testor's product behind years ago for a couple of reasons. The main one being the way that Testor's Dullcote reacted with alcohol. A neat effect but far to unpredictable for me.
Pierre Oliver

By July 1961, both series were fully populated.

KL

I'm not sure if that is the same thing. It isn't the easiest thing to find
these days...our Safeway store didn't carry it but I found it at Home Depot
in the cleaning products section.

Jack

<I first heard about "Future" from Jack Burgess in Naperville last
<year. I put it on a back burner at that time.
<After the recent flurry on the topic I charged out this morning to
<find some. The only product that I could find on
<the shelves was Glade with Future. Is this the same product and is
<the original Future still being produced?
<
<Thanks:
<
<Bill Pardie

January 1965 ORER

MI 6150 to 6199 = unknown *

MP 3900 to 3949 = 50

* for some reason, the Jan 1965 ORER CD that I bought from Westerfield does not include MI, StLB&M, IGN or NOT&M freight car rosters.



July 1969 ORER

MI 6150 to 6199 = 35

MP 3900 to 3949 = 18



- Steve Hedlund, Everett, WA



To: STMFC@...
From: jerryglow@...
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 22:14:37 +0000
Subject: [STMFC] ORER research needed





MP purchased 100 LNE PS-2 covered hoppers in 1960 assigning MP 3900-3949 and M-I 6150-6199. We are having a hard time finding a picture of any in these numbers, only ones renumbered in the 700xxx series. I find a lone entry in the 4 digit numbers listed in my '74 ORER. Does anyone have a mid 60s ORER that can confirm listings in the 4 digit numbers?

thanks in advance
Jerry Glow





_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I first heard about "Future" from Jack Burgess in Naperville last
year. I put it on a back burner at that time.
After the recent flurry on the topic I charged out this morning to
find some. The only product that I could find on
the shelves was Glade with Future. Is this the same product and is
the original Future still being produced?

Thanks:

Bill Pardie

On Jun 5, 2010, at 2:20 AM, James F. Brewer wrote:

Brain,

I just used Future for the first time on a few freight cars and was
very happy with the results. As Jack mentioned, it is not necessary
to apply to the entire car; I sprayed several light coats and
allowed to dry overnight. I sprayed windshield washer fluid through
my air brush to clean it. When applying the decals, I used just
water to set them in place, instead of the Micro Blue label; I
blotted the excess water. I too applied Dullcote over the model. I
am very happy with the results and will use it for future projects.

Jim Brewer

Glenwood MD

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian J Carlson" <prrk41361@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Friday, June 4, 2010 10:30:30 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [STMFC] decal finishing help



I've not been happy with my last few decaling projects with Testor's
Glosscote. Lots of work with setting solutions and creative
weathering have
helped make them better but I am looking for other decal finishing
options.
I've used Glosscote for years originally from spray cans so any
thoughts are
appreciated. I've heard about Future from others anything special I
should
know. Spray right from bottle or dilute?

Brian J. Carlson, P.E.
Cheektowaga NY
prrk41361@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Jun 5, 2010, at 3:14 PM, jerryglow@... wrote:

MP purchased 100 LNE PS-2 covered hoppers in 1960 assigning MP
3900-3949 and M-I 6150-6199. We are having a hard time finding a
picture of any in these numbers, only ones renumbered in the 700xxx
series. I find a lone entry in the 4 digit numbers listed in my '74
ORER. Does anyone have a mid 60s ORER that can confirm listings in
the 4 digit numbers?

Jerry, both four digit number series are shown under the separate
entries for Missouri Pacific and Missouri-Illinois in both the 1/62
and 10/65 ORERs.


Richard Hendrickson

--- In STMFC@..., jerryglow@... wrote:

MP purchased 100 LNE PS-2 covered hoppers in 1960 assigning MP 3900-3949 and M-I 6150-6199. We are having a hard time finding a picture of any in these numbers, only ones renumbered in the 700xxx series. I find a lone entry in the 4 digit numbers listed in my '74 ORER. Does anyone have a mid 60s ORER that can confirm listings in the 4 digit numbers?

thanks in advance
Jerry Glow

Jerry,

They show up in my January 1965 ORER with 50 in each group. Then it's 26,44 in April of 1968, and 2,16 in April of 1970.


Ed

Edward Sutorik

MP purchased 100 LNE PS-2 covered hoppers in 1960 assigning MP 3900-3949 and M-I 6150-6199. We are having a hard time finding a picture of any in these numbers, only ones renumbered in the 700xxx series. I find a lone entry in the 4 digit numbers listed in my '74 ORER. Does anyone have a mid 60s ORER that can confirm listings in the 4 digit numbers?

thanks in advance
Jerry Glow

Matt Forsyth writes:

In the past, I have attempted to place images in a folder in the photo section, but since all have to be approved, and none ever have (still waiting), I'd be more than happy to send you a few pics off line of some completed models.

The only photos that you have attempted to place in the photo section that I am aware of are shots of a D&H hopper. You should have been sent a message regarding copyright ownership of those photos. I do not, however, find such message, so I'll ask now. Do you own copyright to them or are they in the public domain? If you own copyright or if they are in the public domain, they will, of course, be approved.

I will further note that Yahoogroups does not always notify me when a photo has been up loaded and is pending approval. It might be a good idea to let me and/or Jeff Aley know that you have uploaded a photo. I note that photos uploaded by Steve Lucas on June 1 have not generated a message to me from Yahoogroups. Be aware that only photos for which copyright is owned by the member or is known to be in the public domain will be approved by the STMFC.

Mike Brock
STMFC Owner
brockm@...

Matt to you decal on this Matte finish or is that what you use to seal the
decals after you are done. Never had great results decaling on a matte
finish.



Brian J. Carlson, P.E.

Cheektowaga NY

prrk41361@...



From: STMFC@... [mailto:STMFC@...] On Behalf Of
Matthew
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:05 AM
To: STMFC@...
Subject: [STMFC] Re: decal finishing help





Brian J Carlson wrote:

I've not been happy with my last few decaling projects with Testor's
Glosscote. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Brian,

I do a lot of custom brass work (mostly "O" scale but also some "S" and
"HO") for clients all over the US and Japan. I also custom paint and letter
the completed models. These a VERY demanding folks.

I went through all the common clear topcoats that the hobby traditiionally
uses, and then a few years ago, discovered Krylon 1311 Matte Finish. It's
the clear, non-yellowing topcoat that is most often used by artists in
setting completed charcoal drawings on paper.

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/49-266-all-purpose-spray-paint/k
rylon-spray-paint-464560.aspx

It gives "beyond" fabulous results (sprayed right from the can). I have
since totally given up on Testors and other products, and use the 1311
exclusively.

In the past, I have attempted to place images in a folder in the photo
section, but since all have to be approved, and none ever have (still
waiting), I'd be more than happy to send you a few pics off line of some
completed models.

I recently finished off a mega-redetailing, re-powering and
painting/lettering of an "O" scale brass PRR I1sa. Again, I would be more
than happy to send you or anyone else that would like to see, images of
completed models on which I used the 1311 spray.

mforsyth127@... <mailto:mforsyth127%40yahoo.com>

Matt Forsyth

Modeling the D&H Penn Division/
Erie Jefferson Division
in "O" Scale, Summer 1952

Jim,

         It was in their e-newsletter. Sign up and find some great $$$ saving deals.
I am a buyer, not an employee, or relative. Simply happy with the service.

Fred Freitas




________________________________
From: Jim Gates <jim.gates@...>
To: STMFC@...
Sent: Fri, June 4, 2010 10:58:04 PM
Subject: Re: [STMFC] ballast cars

 
Was this on the trainworldonline.com site? I can't find the four pack listed.

Jim Gates

________________________________
From: Frederick Freitas <prrinvt@...>
To: stmfc@...
Sent: Fri, June 4, 2010 6:13:59 PM
Subject: [STMFC] ballast cars

List,

ATSF modelers might be interested to know trainworld is unloading a set of 4
ballast hoppers for $24.99 in ATSF mineral red. IIRC, it's the older scheme.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does this procedures for perishables book also address the use of ventilated insulated  box cars vs. just reefers?



I believe a closed box car, with no ventilation, can reach 125 degrees inside in the summer heat.



Al Kresse

Jerry,

I think an H21 set is a good call. Champ is out of them and probably won't re-stock. Westerfield has a nice set but they'll be unavailable after April next year when Al closes up shop (unless somebody buys the business, of course).

John

John Golden
Bloomington, IN

<An equally effective alternative to lacquer thinner but less stinky and
<more
<benign to humans and airbrush seals is Windex or another ammonia
<containing
<glass cleaner. (It will work for any acrylic paint.) I have two cleaner
<bottles at my painting station; one with Windex and one with tap water.
<Alternating the two a couple of times through the brush and color cup
<cleans
<it all out.
<
<You ought to try one of the acrylic flat clears, such as PollyScale's or
<Tamiya's. You mentioned throwing away the Future if it ages and gets
<yellow, yet we use Dullcoat that's already yellow/brown on the hobby
<shop
<shelf !!
<
<KL

I should have mentioned that I clean out the air brush with lacquer thinner
since I use Floquil enamels exclusively for painting and thus am concerned
about water being left in the air brush. The suggestion for not using Future
after it gets yellow came from Finescale Modeler...

Jack

Brian J Carlson wrote:

I've not been happy with my last few decaling projects with Testor's
Glosscote. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Brian,

I do a lot of custom brass work (mostly "O" scale but also some "S" and "HO") for clients all over the US and Japan. I also custom paint and letter the completed models. These a VERY demanding folks.

I went through all the common clear topcoats that the hobby traditiionally uses, and then a few years ago, discovered Krylon 1311 Matte Finish. It's the clear, non-yellowing topcoat that is most often used by artists in setting completed charcoal drawings on paper.

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/49-266-all-purpose-spray-paint/krylon-spray-paint-464560.aspx


It gives "beyond" fabulous results (sprayed right from the can). I have since totally given up on Testors and other products, and use the 1311 exclusively.

In the past, I have attempted to place images in a folder in the photo section, but since all have to be approved, and none ever have (still waiting), I'd be more than happy to send you a few pics off line of some completed models.

I recently finished off a mega-redetailing, re-powering and painting/lettering of an "O" scale brass PRR I1sa. Again, I would be more than happy to send you or anyone else that would like to see, images of completed models on which I used the 1311 spray.

mforsyth127@...


Matt Forsyth


Modeling the D&H Penn Division/
Erie Jefferson Division
in "O" Scale, Summer 1952

Looking at the NP perishables book I saw some unexpected items listed as perishables:

Liquid blacking, which looks to be essentially shoe polish
Liquid polish
Sodium perborate
Paradichlorobenzene, aka, moth crystals
Stearine (stearin)
Mineral water crystals

Casual checking doesn't show any particular concerns with these between freezing and about 125F, so does anyone know what makes these items "perishable"?

KL

Brain,



I just used Future for the first time on a few freight cars and was very happy with the results.  As Jack mentioned, it is not necessary to apply to the entire car; I sprayed several light coats and allowed to dry overnight. I sprayed windshield washer fluid through my air brush to clean it.  When applying the decals, I used just water to set them in place, instead of the Micro Blue label; I blotted the excess water. I too applied Dullcote over the model. I am very happy with the results and will use it for future projects.



Jim Brewer

Glenwood MD

Try

_www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html_
(http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html)

I have used it mainly to make plastic windows look like glass, and it makes
a better water effect than varnish.

Johnsons Klear has gone from the shelves here in the UK as it needs ammonia
solution to clean it off properly, which make a lovely whiff when used to
clean an air brush. Definitely an outdoor job.

There is a substitute that I have not tried yet, which can be cleaned up
with vinegar.

Cheers

Barry Bennett
Coventry, England.

An equally effective alternative to lacquer thinner but less stinky and more benign to humans and airbrush seals is Windex or another ammonia containing glass cleaner. (It will work for any acrylic paint.) I have two cleaner bottles at my painting station; one with Windex and one with tap water. Alternating the two a couple of times through the brush and color cup cleans it all out.

You ought to try one of the acrylic flat clears, such as PollyScale's or Tamiya's. You mentioned throwing away the Future if it ages and gets yellow, yet we use Dullcoat that's already yellow/brown on the hobby shop shelf !!

KL